Kibler Finish Question

[WVTracker]

After Christmas I plan on starting my 2nd Southern Mountain rifle from Kiblers. My first one I used the Tried and True Linseed Oil thinned down on the stock. It worked well and looks good. On the second rifle I was thinking about trying the Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn Sealer. From what I’ve read it dries faster than the linseed oil, but does it look better or is it better all around from the linseed oil? Thanks!

 

[dave_person]

Hi,
Permalyn is very popular and pretty easy to apply. It is also a pretty good finish with respect to weather resistance. However, I don't care for it because it has a slight plastic look a little like polyurethane that I don't like. Here is a thorough discussion of it. Read the entire thread.
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=14917.15
dave

 

[WVTracker]

Hi,
Permalyn is very popular and pretty easy to apply. It is also a pretty good finish with respect to weather resistance. However, I don't care for it because it has a slight plastic look a little like polyurethane that I don't like. Here is a thorough discussion of it. Read the entire thread.
https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=14917.15
dave

Thank you for the link!

 

[Psycho Mike]

If only I could get stuff like Permalyn up here in Canada...it's not an option, just like a number of other LMF products.

For me, I am after a "fresh from the maker look" so I'll likely be using a Danish oil (generally a BLO base with Tung oil and other stuff in it) after my dying for figure/overall a bit warmer color than plain maple gives....once dry, it'll likely be thin coats of spar urethane (wipe on, wipe off) to get my weather proofing and more satin finish while protecting the dye from UV light. My long won't be the "traditional" dark finish that so many use...I think that's become the norm due to the aging of originals and folks trying to emulate it/them.

 

[Salty Cracker]

If only I could get stuff like Permalyn up here in Canada...it's not an option, just like a number of other LMF products.

For me, I am after a "fresh from the maker look" so I'll likely be using a Danish oil (generally a BLO base with Tung oil and other stuff in it) after my dying for figure/overall a bit warmer color than plain maple gives....once dry, it'll likely be thin coats of spar urethane (wipe on, wipe off) to get my weather proofing and more satin finish while protecting the dye from UV light. My long won't be the "traditional" dark finish that so many use...I think that's become the norm due to the aging of originals and folks trying to emulate it/them.

I find it best to emulate the original finishes and ways of applying them instead of modern dyes. Especially ones they let you have up there.

 

[Psycho Mike]

I find it best to emulate the original finishes and ways of applying them instead of modern dyes. Especially ones they let you have up there.

True....a little dye to pop the figure (I'm not looking for the dark finish you get with Tannic acid and ferrous nitrate), a fair bit of work with either Danish oil or tung oil (with a UV stabilizer) and beeswax or a little spar urethane will do me plenty fine

 

[DCAN]

I've used the LMF Permalyn on one rifle and the Tried and True oil on another. Happy with both in ease of use and outcome. I will likely use both on the rifle I'm working on right now. I've heard that Tried and True will go over Permalyn. Where I live water resistance is a constant issue. If I lived on the east side of the state I would likely try something else just for the sake of trying it.

 

[HighUintas]

After Christmas I plan on starting my 2nd Southern Mountain rifle from Kiblers. My first one I used the Tried and True Linseed Oil thinned down on the stock. It worked well and looks good. On the second rifle I was thinking about trying the Laurel Mountain Forge Permalyn Sealer. From what I’ve read it dries faster than the linseed oil, but does it look better or is it better all around from the linseed oil? Thanks!

The link Dave provided is a good one.

I did my first and only so far gun with Permalyn sealer. I followed Bill Shipman's method in that link.

However, when I put on each coat of sealer as finish after the first sealing coat, I put it on too thickly. After 5 or 6 coats, it was far too built up looking. I think the key is to do very very thin coats or wipe it off after applying each coat.

I tried rubbing it back with rottenstone, oil, and a toothbrush, but I didn't like the result very much. It was hard for me to get the finish even and just the right amount of rubbed back.

So, what I did in the end because it still looked too built up, was I rubbed it back to wood as much as possible with maroon 3m. Then I hand rubbed in a total of 2 coats as someone else in that thread suggested. That worked superbly. It gives a nice satin appearance that I don't think looks plastic at all.

Also, you'll notice that if you watch Kiblers video where he finishes a woodsrunner with Permalyn, he puts on each coat using a 3m maroon pad and wipes off the excess so that it is a very thin layer being applied. And Kibler obviously knows what he's doing.

For more information on Shipman's method, you can search Permalyn on the ALR forum by the user Ed Wenger. He builds some beautiful guns and uses Permalyn. He uses Shipman's method for the most part and explains it in a couple of threads.

Here's mine with Permalyn

 

[sqqy14]

I've used Permslyn on a couple of stocks and it comes out really nice after 3 coats. I then rub it out with rottenstone to a rich satin finish.

 

[BJamesBeck]

I have used Permalyn and Tried & True on the two Kiblers I've assembled and preferred the Tried & True. It is probably not AS weather resistant as Permalyn, but I have had my rifle out hunting in rain and snow and the moisture seems to bead up on the surface. The Tried & True just has a much more natural appearance to me, and maintenance of the finish seems to be far easier than Permalyn.

Here is my rifle with the Tried & True finish:

 

[duca]

The link Dave provided is a good one.

I did my first and only so far gun with Permalyn sealer. I followed Bill Shipman's method in that link.

However, when I put on each coat of sealer as finish after the first sealing coat, I put it on too thickly. After 5 or 6 coats, it was far too built up looking. I think the key is to do very very thin coats or wipe it off after applying each coat.

I tried rubbing it back with rottenstone, oil, and a toothbrush, but I didn't like the result very much. It was hard for me to get the finish even and just the right amount of rubbed back.

So, what I did in the end because it still looked too built up, was I rubbed it back to wood as much as possible with maroon 3m. Then I hand rubbed in a total of 2 coats as someone else in that thread suggested. That worked superbly. It gives a nice satin appearance that I don't think looks plastic at all.

Also, you'll notice that if you watch Kiblers video where he finishes a woodsrunner with Permalyn, he puts on each coat using a 3m maroon pad and wipes off the excess so that it is a very thin layer being applied. And Kibler obviously knows what he's doing.

For more information on Shipman's method, you can search Permalyn on the ALR forum by the user Ed Wenger. He builds some beautiful guns and uses Permalyn. He uses Shipman's method for the most part and explains it in a couple of threads.

Here's mine with Permalyn

View attachment 276430

I noticed the offset hole next the the lock bolt, what happened there

 

[painter]

When I assembled my Kibler I used both Permalyn, and Tried an True Varnish Oil. One coat of permalyn on the exterior, and if I'm remembering right, two coats in the inlets. Then I used four coats of the Tried and True on the exterior.

 

[WVTracker]

Thank you all for the reply’s I ended up going with what I used on the first one. Tried and true thinned out. Got the first coat on yesterday.

 

[James Kibler]

The interesting thing about finish is that there are lots of choices. I always find it interesting when people have strong opinions about one or the other. I'd challenge those to pick out what finish was used on a completed rifle. It's more how it's used than what it is. There is a significant range of finishes used by highly respected builders.

 

[James Kibler]

By the way, that's some pretty wood on that SMR. Nice color as well.

 

[HighUintas]

I noticed the offset hole next the the lock bolt, what happened there

My first lock bolt hole was not drilled accurately, so I plugged and redrilled it. I thought I had the wood grain of the plug matched up well, but apparently not! I consider it a freckle

 

[WVTracker]

By the way, that's some pretty wood on that SMR. Nice color as well.

Thank you! Does the hunters star and V gouge lines put me way out of line with when this rifle was used historically?