Kibler Gap Question

[springfield art]

A paper thin gap isn't a problem. Put a drop of Gorilla Glue in the gap and it will expand and be invisible. It hardens up after 24hrs.

People need to know that the Gorilla glue does indeed expand. I found that out when re-setting a small sculpture on a base, and it blobbed out over time, oozing out like the Blob in the Blob movie! Fortunately, it was fixable and nothing got ruined.

 

[CascadeRob]

Looks mostly cosmetic to me, when you black the back of the barrel is there plenty of black on the back of the inlet? I fixed the barrel inlet before I did the tang in this picture.

Mostly like this, in my opinion this is good enough, you can glue in a thin shim to close the gap, I have done this several times.

After you shoot the gun a bunch of times the recoil will seat the barrel just a little further back.

View attachment 338289

Barrel, tang shims, I have closed a gap or two at the breech the same way, they are paper thin where they are glued in and don't show on a finished gun.

View attachment 338290

I am using Prussian Blue (as you can see in my pictures it’s all over, I didn’t realize it was on my hand and I grabbed the stock lol) but there is very little left on the breech in a few areas. I shaved a little here and there but I think I’m a bit timid to shave too much. Just out of curiosity are your shims of the same wood? Or can you use any sort of wood shim?

 

[Freedom]

If you don't file a couple thousands clearance at the end of the Tang on the Kolonial, it'll chip out the stock when using heavy recoil loads.. don't ask me how I know.

 

[CascadeRob]

If you don't file a couple thousands clearance at the end of the Tang on the Kolonial, it'll chip out the stock when using heavy recoil loads.. don't ask me how I know.

Oh really? Okay good to know!

 

[wiscoaster]

.....Just out of curiosity are your shims of the same wood? Or can you use any sort of wood shim?

You can make very thin shims that have uniform thickness by using laminating wood. I've bought some at Woodcraft that's almost paper card stock thin.

 

[waksupi]

Don't use Gorilla glue, it will leave a yellow line that won't go away.
Is the gap present with the barrel pinned into place? If not, a small amount of play between wood and steel can show a small gap.

 

[CascadeRob]

You can make very thin shims that have uniform thickness by using laminating wood. I've bought some at Woodcraft that's almost paper card stock thin.

Okay. I checked out their website, tons of goodies. Now sorry for sounding so naive but if it comes down to this, and needing to shim it, does good ole fashion wood glue work to put it together?

 

[CascadeRob]

Don't use Gorilla glue, it will leave a yellow line that won't go away.
Is the gap present with the barrel pinned into place? If not, a small amount of play between wood and steel can show a small gap.

To be honest, I have not pinned it to find out.

 

[ZUG]

Your barrel tenons should be slotted to allow for wood expansion so pinning the barrel to prevent movement is not a good idea. To me I think you are over thinking this "gap" issue. Your final finish will cover up most if not all small gaps. Also, if your wood to metal fit is too tight you will get chip/tear out when those parts are removed.

 

[garypl]

If the barrel is firmly settled and supported at the rear you can seal any hairline gaps with a little softened beeswax.

 

[CascadeRob]

Your barrel tenons should be slotted to allow for wood expansion so pinning the barrel to prevent movement is not a good idea. To me I think you are over thinking this "gap" issue. Your final finish will cover up most if not all small gaps. Also, if your wood to metal fit is too tight you will get chip/tear out when those parts are removed.

Maybe I ought to pin it now, and see how the gap reacts? I mean if it’s tight on the tang, and tight on the lock side and probably tight low in the breech area. I can’t see how that won’t be sufficient? I don’t know just thinking out loud.

 

[SDSmlf]

Yes sir. Thank you. Left him a message so hopefully I’ll hear from him in a day or so

So what did you hear from @James Kibler? Maybe put the sharp tools, shims and sticky concoctions down until you do. Believe you are overthinking things.

 

[wiscoaster]

Okay. I checked out their website, tons of goodies. Now sorry for sounding so naive but if it comes down to this, and needing to shim it, does good ole fashion wood glue work to put it together?

Yes.

 

[CascadeRob]

So what did you hear from @James Kibler? Maybe put the sharp tools, shims and sticky concoctions down until you do. Believe you are overthinking things.

Bree emailed me this morning requesting pictures, did that now waiting a response

 

[waksupi]

Maybe I ought to pin it now, and see how the gap reacts? I mean if it’s tight on the tang, and tight on the lock side and probably tight low in the breech area. I can’t see how that won’t be sufficient? I don’t know just thinking out loud.

I know when I have got pre-inlet stocks in the past, it hasn't been uncommon for them to have changed shape a bit. Some get downright warped, and need soaking to put the barrel into let them set correctly. When a stock comes from the east where 50% + humidity is common, when they get here in what is currently 7% humidity, things WILL change!

 

[bigted]

Looks like in your first photo, the top of the breech has the gap and the bottom is snug against the wood. Also the barrel seems to have a like gap along the bottom in the bedded area under the touch hole.

I would check the bottom of your tang. Might be it needs to go a smidgen deeper to settle the breech down and MAYBE both little gaps would dissappear.

Glad you contacted Kibler first tho. Good move on your part. I'd prefer to wait on instruction from the boss before taking any action.

Good luck my Friend

 

[wiscoaster]

I know when I have got pre-inlet stocks in the past, it hasn't been uncommon for them to have changed shape a bit. Some get downright warped, and need soaking to put the barrel into let them set correctly. When a stock comes from the east where 50% + humidity is common, when they get here in what is currently 7% humidity, things WILL change!

No kidding. My last kit sat in the basement for a month before I started work on it. Then work was interrupted and everything I'd done needed redoing. Humidity changes everything. Then once you think you're done inletting and finish the stock everything needs redoing yet again.

 

[deerstalkert]

be cautious with moving the barrel aft. the lock bolt goes through the breach plug bolster. move the barrel aft you may have to elongate that hole.
my Colonial had just about the same clearance as yours on top of the inlet. finish just about filled it.

 

[CascadeRob]

be cautious with moving the barrel aft. the lock bolt goes through the breach plug bolster. move the barrel aft you may have to elongate that hole.
my Colonial had just about the same clearance as yours on top of the inlet. finish just about filled it.

Ah yes fair point. Unless I get some sort of direction from Jim I may leave it. I’d rather finish it, and it not be cured rather than finding out the hard way of an irreversible mistake

 

[waksupi]

No kidding. My last kit sat in the basement for a month before I started work on it. Then work was interrupted and everything I'd done needed redoing. Humidity changes everything. Then once you think you're done inletting and finish the stock everything needs redoing yet again.

I put together a Chambers fowler. I had the trigger guard inlet, and left it in place in the stock in the vise for the evening. When I went to the shop in the morning, the trigger guard was on the floor. It didn't go back into the inlet until I bent it a bit. I thought it had bent when it hit the floor. For some reason, I once again left it in it's inlet that afternoon when I left the shop, and once again, I found it on the floor.
The stock finally stopped moving, and I ended up with an inch+ of off cast in the stock. I was just happy it bent the right way for me!