Rangefogger
40 Cal
- Joined
- Apr 1, 2021
- Messages
- 231
- Reaction score
- 388
Nope, that about does it. Snap's together like Lego's.
Might be too coarse, mine was a fine mill file, it came out smooth enough that I spent minimal time with sand paper, and burgundy scotch-brite for a nice finish. This was the #1 task I was nervous about, but ended up being very simple. I would just watch Jim's youtube video, then follow what he did.
I used the mill file, then 120, 220, and finished with the burgundy scotch-brite. Unless you were wanting to blue it, I don't think you would want to go any finer. This was perfect for a browned, or in-the-white finish. I used Historic house parts brass black on my metal, looks pretty nice
Mill file. Actually the new barrels require very little if any draw filing. My first one two years ago required much more. I believe it was a Rice barrel.That’s what I like to hear. How about the single cut mill file for draw filing the barrel? Will a bastard single cut work or is it too coarse?
If I’m not mistaken, somewhere along the line he mentions squaring off the breechplug/ tang inlet. It comes kinda rounded.The in-letting on my Colonial was very good - but not flawless.
The lock mounting bolts lined up perfectly with the holes drilled through the stock, but there was over a 1/32" gap behind the barrel and behind the tang. Filled in with some wood putty. Maybe somebody didn't get the stock correctly mounted in the machining fixture for that procedure. Still have a ways to go in my finishing effort - hope the putty stains OK. On the plus side, some of the processes detailed in the Kibler assembly videos are now completed before the kit ships. Overall, still very pleased with the kit.
Mine did not come "rounded". The procedure mentioned in the videos refers to fitting the barrel by removing material (wood) with a chisel, etc. until everything lines up correctly. I had to add material to fill in gaps behind the tang and behind the breech plug. As I said, the mounting bolts for the lock lined up perfectly (including though the bolt hole in the barrel), indicating the positioning of the barrel cutout to the lock cutout was correct.If I’m not mistaken, somewhere along the line he mentions squaring off the breechplug/ tang inlet. It comes kinda rounded.
Ahh. I see. Both mine fit great, I have a third I haven’t started on, maybe it will be like yours...Mine did not come "rounded". The procedure mentioned in the videos refers to fitting the barrel by removing material (wood) with a chisel, etc. until everything lines up correctly. I had to add material to fill in gaps behind the tang and behind the breech plug. As I said, the mounting bolts for the lock lined up perfectly (including though the bolt hole in the barrel), indicating the positioning of the barrel cutout to the lock cutout was correct.
Was it perfect? No.Ahh. I see. Both mine fit great, I have a third I haven’t started on, maybe it will be like yours...
Recommend you get a small set of gunsmith screwdrivers in order to avoid buggering screw slots. Also, run all bolts into their holes a few time with finger pressure before attaching parts to stock, and lubricate wood screw threads with beeswax or soap before installing.Would anyone who has built a Kibler rifle kit please chime in here? Is there anything that I need beyond this list of tools to complete my southern mountain rifle kit?
When viewing Kibler's videos, I notice that the screw drivers he uses are hardware store variety. With the exception of the lock bolts, the butt plate screws are standard unplated wood screws, which have a wedge fit slot. When I assemble mine, I use another set from the hardware store that i don't care if i bugger up.Recommend you get a small set of gunsmith screwdrivers in order to avoid buggering screw slots. Also, run all bolts into their holes a few time with finger pressure before attaching parts to stock, and lubricate wood screw threads with beeswax or soap before installing.
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