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Kinda-Newbie looking for advice!

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I too am not a fan of Wonderlube. I had it build up in my bore and destroy accuracy. I am using Stumpys Moose Snot for patch lube, and have never seen the clean up at the end of the day go so quick. I use Balistol for bore protection.
 
Okay fellas, here's what I've done so far:

(1) Removed the nipple and cleanout plug
(2) Swabbed the bore leberally with Hoppe's #9 and let sit for 24 hours
(3) Dried out the bore and shot the bore full of foaming bore cleaner this morning and let sit
(4) This evening I swabbed out the bore, added a dab of foaming bore cleaner, then scrubbed out the powder chamber and bore
(5) alternated patches soaked in BC Barricade (Sheath) until patches showed clean, swabbed powder chamber with Barricade.
(6) gave the bore a light coat of Barricade, wiped down all metal parts with Barricade, then re-assembled rifle, applying anti-sieze to the nipple and cleanout plug.

Did I forget anything?
 
Okay, today I was finally able to go by the only store I know of to get some real black poweder and picked up two bottles of Graf & Sons FFG powder. It says on the bottle that it is imported by Shuetzen Powder, LLC for Graf & Sons. It says it's manufactured by Wano Schwartzpulver out of Kunigunde, Germany. So I take it this is Wano powder then?

What kinds of load would you think would be a good starting load, hunting wise? 75 grains? 100 grains? All opinions welcome!
 
Using a PRB of .530 caliber, and a .015 " Patch, start shooting at 25 yds with a beginning load of 65 grains. Work up from there. I think you will find that at about 80 Grains of FFFg Wano, you will find a good load that will be accurate out to 100 yds. With that size ball, you need to focus more on accurate placement than on velocity. That big round ball is going to slow down, but everything is relative. Your ball is more like a freight train than a sports car, so don't worry about it killing a deer. Much more than 80 grains and the felt recoil of those guns begins to be noticed and spoil the groups. Some people here report getting good results with 70 and 75 grain charges. Wano is comparable to Goex, and sometimes is a bit cheaper. It is not as fast as Swiss FFFg powder, so don't confuse the two.
 
From what I understood I would be better off with FFG powder in a 54 cal instead of FFFG powder. That's why I bought it. I can go back and get some FFFG - what exactly is the difference? I know FFFG is finer than FFG, but other than that I don't know why one size grain would be better than another for different calibers. What exactly determines what grade of powder you should use?
 
Th efiner, FFFg powder has more surface area per grain of weight, so burns faster and produces higher pressures, quicker. It also produces a sharper felt recoil force that some shooters don't like. The argument in favor of using FFFg loads is that with the faster rate of burn, the ball upsets and fills the grooves to seal the ball better, giving better velocity and accuracy. I don't see that those loads give more consistent velocity readings on the chronograph, at least with my testing, so I am still undecided on that claim. Some guns do seem to shoot FFFg loads better than FFg loads, even making up for the difference in velocity by decreasing the amount of FFFg powder used compared to FFg, or vice versa. It is important to find the " Sweet spot " in the range of velocity that your particular barrel likes the best. The nice thing about having and using a chronograph is that you can find the sweet spot much faster, and when changing powders or other components, simply adjust you powder charge to give the same velocity to get that " Sweet spot" again. The Sweet Spot " is the velocity that gives the lowset SDV reading, and which seems to shoot the smallest groups, off-hand, or off the bench, or cross sticks.

Changing brands of balls, or patches, or patch thickness, or even lubes, and brands of powder, or even the lot of powder can change the velocity enough to miss the " sweet spot ". The reason the bench rest shooters, and the Chunk Gun shooters spend so much time measuring everything is that they know, even with the massive barrels they shoot, that everything "MATTERS" when you are trying to get the most accuracy at the longest ranges. The same concerns affect shorter ranged hunting guns, even when the shooter does not need nor demand a high level of accuracy to kill a deer. Most hunters don't want to needlessly wound an animal, and virtually all hunters don't want to MISS an animal when hunting with a one shot gun like MLers. That is why we practice shooting until the gun feels like its attached to your body, and is an extension of your brain. And that is why we try to find that sweet spot. Once found, we want to stay there.

If you find a load using FFg powder that seems to work for you, stick with it. But, if you have it, also try a FFFg powder load that gives you the same velocity to see if the barrel does not like it even better. I had a friend who tried every load he could think of, changing components, and actually bruising his shoulder after firing hundreds of round out of his new .62 cal. rifle. Then, on someone's suggestion, he tried FFFg powder in the gun. He found his " sweet spot " rather quickly, and was in shock. He had been the guy in the club that preached using FFg for everything larger than .50 caliber. He would get in big arguments with anyone who dared use FFFg in a .50, .54, or .58. Many of the guys had been using FFFg load in their rifles for years, so he was quite a sight to see arguing with them. He admitted he felt really silly after his experience with his .62, and asked me if He should find all those guys and apologize to them. I told him I would write him up in the club newsletter and mention his apology to everyone. That seemed to work well for everyone. I got a couple of phone calls about that one from some of the guys who were apparently angry at my friend over this. When they read my story about his journey to discovery, they laughed, and called to tell me so.
 
If you want to play with conicals, you might try the Hornady 390 gr HP great plains bullets in that 54. In my TC 54 Hawken they shoot real well. they load a little harder than maxi-balls, but shoot much better. I've shot a few deer with this bullet and they work great. I've also found the Hornady 385 gr HP 50 cal bullet to work great in my 50 cal TC Hawken as well. Neither of my rifles will shoot the TC maxi-balls or maxi hunters as well as the great plains bullets.
 
Fellas, I've been busy but hopefully I'll be able to give the .54 a test run this weekend. One thing, I'm kinda worried that I didn't get all that preservative out of the barrel, after raeding a lot of stuff on other threads about how darn stubborn that stuff can be. Is there any way to know for sure that I absolutely got it all out of the bore?
 
Don't worry about it. It will shoot just fine.

Now that your ready to shoot the thing be prepared for it to shoot low. By that I mean, aim at the center of the target but the location of the group will be low.
Don't worry about it just yet.
Shoot at least 5 and better yet shoot 10 shots with your starting powder load of about 65 grains.
Take down that target and write the load on it and set up a clean target.
Increase the load to 75 grains and shoot another 5 or 10 shots.
Replace the target again marking the load on the one you just shot.
Repeat this with a 85 grain load.

Somewhere in these loads you should note that the group size is smaller. If you do, set up a clean target again and try a load half way between the two best groups. If it is better then remember this load.

After you've found the best load, then get out your file and start filing down the front sight to bring the location of the group up to the aim point.

Have fun!
 
Here's the first results! I figured that I would need to break the rifle in first, so I used 80 grains all day long. I shot aprox. 50 rounds this afternoon. My first two groups were at 50 and 100 yards, 10 shots each. After that, a friend and I took turns shooting at gongs and plates at distances from 50 to 200 yards - and it was a very rare event to miss at anything under 100 yards.

My first two shots at 50 yards were a bit off, low and to the left, but after that I shot two four-shot groups that cut each other's holes. My first shot at 100 yards was about a foot high, the next nine I kept in about a 6-inch group with three hitting the bullseye.

for whatever reason, the maxi-hunters hit right with the patched balls out to 100 yards - I was able to hit a 4" square metal plate pretty much every time from 25 to 100 yards with either projectile, but at 200 yards the maxi-hunters dropped off significantly compared to the patched balls (the target at 200 yards was a 2' square gong).

here's the pics, the 50 yard group and 100 yard group:

50yards10-07-1007.jpg
100yards10-07-2007.jpg
 
That's great shooting. I myself have only been able to get out my renegade .50 and shoot it at 50 yds and i got a .50 group shooting 385gr great plains bullets with a bore button underneath them. it was a system I used with the .54 new englander and the GP bullets with the bore button seems to work great together. Iron sights seem to be my problem. the rifle probably winces at my inability to use them as well as it can shoot.
 
GUYS: With all due respect, you don't need a conical to kill deer at normal ranges. Your 230 grain PRB will put a huge hole in a deer, and usually exit, unless you are shooting end to end, or into a shoulder bone. Even then, expect it to exit 90% or better of the time.

I wish while you are doing your range time, you would do some penetration testing with both the RB and your conicals. While the heavy conicals will no doubt drive much deeper, in any medium, I think you will be pleasantly surprised at how effective that big lead ball is at inside 100 yds.
 

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