kit finishing advice Tradisions Trapper

[brushrunabout]

Finishing up a Tradisions Trapper pistol kit. going great but wondering if I should just leave the wood with walnut stain and the 3 coats of linsead oil finisher from Birchwood Casey or add the "stock sheen" coat on top after it all dries a few days.

I am thinking that the most protection possible is best but looks great as is. Blueing turned out great. Really sharp piece and loce the double set trigger.

Moving up from a T/C inline Omega. Now I tried black I can't go back.

Jim neat Detroit Mi

 

[renovato]

The stock sheen is basically a fine rubbing compound and some wax. You don't need to use it if you like the look the way it is. You can always use it later if you want a little more luster. I've always used rubbing compound and wax seperately so I can control the results better. The finish doesn't really get any benefit from the wax, other than looks.

BTW, welcome to MLF!

 

[rafterob]

As mentioned before here...the linseed oil does not waterproof the finish, and as I learned real quick-overflow when cleaning can mess up your finish. I rubbed some wax on mine and that did the trick.

 

[brushrunabout]

Thanks for advice. The linseed oil swelled the wood so the lock does not fit perfect again. Should I wait a few days for things to stabalize then dremel so lock plate pops in nice? Edges of wood swelled. Don't know if it will go down by self or if a little extra fitting needed. Will be shooter so not real worried.

 

[brushrunabout]

Got me a pick and short ball starter and mini pistol grain flask. Can't wait. My T/C Omega has a cutout at end of barrel and I used solit pellets. Horror but got me into things and should be nice back up gun now :rotf:

Any advice on best powder? I have some loose I was going to try with the inline. pyyodex 3f I think, what ever they reccomind for the muzzle loaders. Can I learn with that for the pistol just with much smaller loads?

 

[rafterob]

The pyrodex should work fine in the Trapper, preferably the "P" you may have "RS" for your rifle but that should work also, I assume the Trapper is .50 cal. I have gone from pyrodex to black powder but am not a purist and often consider switching back to Pyrodex because of the fouling residue from Black. We buy Goex black powder in quantity though and the price is better.
On the wood swelling front don't worry it will settle back in as the oil absorbs more into the wood. Just use some gentle persuasion to get the lock in and then don't remove it for a week or so.

 

[Zonie]

All wood swells when it absorbs an oil. This is true whether one uses Linseed, Tung or any other kind of wood finishing oil.
This is why I usually recommend making the mortise a very free fit with the metal part before applying the oils.

To fix this, I usually give the oil about a day or two to soak in. Then I use my pocket knife to scrape the walls of the mortise until the lock/trigger etc fits freely into the mortise.

The only word of caution here is to take your time and keep some inward pressure on the knife to keep its point against the bottom of the mortise.

Although Gettogun's suggestion about leaving the lock in the oiled mortise will work, there is a good chance that the linseed oil will dry on the edges of the lock and act like a poor glue. This can make removing the lock quite a chore if it happens.

 

[brushrunabout]

Thanks to all. I will let you know how it comes out and get a picture soon.

 

[renovato]

I have shot my Trapper with Pyrodex P. I had an old can that I wanted to use up. It fired fine, but was more accurate when I started using FFFG black powder in it. Mine likes a 35 grain load, .490 ball with .18 patches.

The rifling was pretty sharp on mine and it shredded patches for a while. If yours is like that, it'll shoot in after a couple hundred rounds, or you can carefully polish the bore with some fine steel wool and oil or fine rubbing compound.

 

[brushrunabout]

here is the almost finsihed product

Does the touch hole? look correct location. Seems a little low to pan. Any alignment suggestions appreciated or other finishing advice you can see from picture.

Thanks,

 

[brushrunabout]

whole pictures

 

[Len Graves]

I havn't had much luck with Pyrodex igniting in my flinters. I haven't really pressed the issue either. if it works for you go for it. The vent (touch hole) does look low to me too. If you have enough metal on the bottom of the pan you can take a small grinder -dremel- grind out a little inside to move the pan a little lower. Then fill the pan only up to the vent, not over it, for quicker ignition.

 

[renovato]

I guess I missed the part about the gun being a flinter. I should clarify. My Trapper is a percussion model and I haven't had any trouble with Pyrodex in it. It doesn't work well in flintlocks though.