Knife handle stain?

[jbtusa]

Any suggestions on what to use to stain tiger maple knife handles? I used Aquafortis but when heated as required, the heat warped the wood away from the knife tang. Now there's a gap. What else will work to stain tiger maple but which doesn't require heat?

 

[Jaeger]

I was going to suggest staining the knife scales FIRST and then mounting them on the blade, even to the extent of re-working that inner surface where the woods faces the blade handle, but I really don't know how deep aqua fortis penetrates the wood. Anybody out there care to comment?

 

[RickD]

I`ve used Potassium permanganate on maple with good success

 

[dlpowell]

Any alcohol based stain will work. I prefer leather dye. It's alcohol based, and relatively cheap.

 

[LRB]

I will second the leather stain, Fiebings medium brown, but go a tad darker than you really want. It will fade some. Also, if you will stain it, then sand it back to where the wood between the curl is noticably lighter than it was, then restain, the curl will stand out more. The curl is like end grain, and will soak up more stain than the wood between.

 

[Bob Gular]

I've been using Aquafortis for years without the problem you describe. Are your scales pinned and epoxied? Has the epoxy, if used, had time to cure? Are the pins tight? What kind of heat are you using and for how long? Are you letting the chemical dry before applying heat? Is the maple acclimated to the work area?
Sorry to ask all the questions but all these factors apply to a successful conclusion.
After the scales are pinned and epoxied to the handle area let the epoxy set up at least an hour, sand or file off any squeeze-out. Finish sand the handle with 220 or 320 paper. Apply aquafortis with a swab making sure all wood is covered. Let aquafortis dry completely to a greenish hue. When totally dry turn on the electric range, or if a gas range, place a cast iron griddle over the flame. When the air directly over the burner is too hot to hold your hand in you are ready to start. Holding the knife by the blade with something heat or fireproof, start passing the handle area through the super heated air and watch very carefully the color progression of the maple. Rotate a little with each pass to get even heating all around. When properly done the wood will have the color of dark rust, but no black. You can also use an electric heat gun, but I have found the range method more satisfactory. Finish sand again to smooth and apply finish. I use a varnish/linseed oil/turpentine formula, but most wiping finishes will work. Stains will show grain variation but nothing brings the grain to life like properly applied aquafortis.
Just a couple sparks from this side of the fire.

 

[jmforge]

I know that this isn't PC, but since we do use epoxy, make sure you get some GOOD epoxy like West system or Brownells Acraglass. Golf club epoxy is supposed to be very good too, but i was told that Golfsmith is only selling colored epoxy nowadays. The 1 to 1 mix stuff you get in little syringes at HD or Lowes is not good stuff and has a "life expectancy." Also, if you are gluing scales, a boatbuilding/knifemaker friend of mine says use the collodial silica filler to thicken the epoxy up. I tend to do hidden tang knives, but I do my dying before i glue up the handle and the most I have to do after it is dry is maybe touch up a tiny spot if I had to file and sand down the pin a bit. I would worry a little about heating up the handle once you have glued it up.
Now to really confuse you. The BEST color that I have ever seen on maple knife handles was from using diluted muriatic acid (pool acid) and heat to "caramelize" the sugars in the wood........but it is a PITA from what I am told!!!!!!! :wink: