Knife Sheaths

[JCW]

Does anybody sell sheaths for the Russel Green River Sheep Skinner? All I have found so far are kind of a rough, generic fit. I don't have the time to get into leather craft and make one myself. Too many other irons in the fire, so to speak. Jeff.

 

[taylorh]

Try Track of the Wolf. They have lots of nice sheaths at good prices. They have a website you can google.
Taylor in Texas

 

[oldarmy]

Both these websites sell knife sheaths and if you callhttp://www.knifeandgun.com/
They are very helpfull[url] http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_cart.html?r=9496[/url]
this one sell generic sheaths that will fit the blade you have.
regards
Mike

 

[RickD]

Wish I could find a nice sheath maker that would trade his work for a knife

 

[BadHeart]

I make all my own sheaths for my knives, nothing fancy. But they do the job.

 

[schnapser]

I too have been making center back seam, waxed, sheaths lately. They have been turning out quite nicely and don't seam to be too hard to do once you get the hang of it. If I can be of any help, drop me a pm. Chris

 

[Johnny Tremain]

I refuse to put my high carbon blades in anything buy a wooden scabbard

No leaching for me, thank you

 

[schnapser]

Here are the three most recent that I have made. Chris

 

[tg]

"No leaching for me, thank you"

Is it the salt leaching from the leather that is a concern?

 

[Johnny Tremain]

The dye leaching the high carbon steel.

All my blades are in wooden scabards, one has leather cover

 

[JCW]

Thanks all, I bought one from TOTW. I also picked up some of the supplies and tools needed for leather working at a yard sale.

 

[pondoro]

Where can I get some pictures or a pattern for how to make a center seam scabbard?

 

[LRB]

Pondoro, to make a simple center seam sheath, you make it as a side seam with no welt. Wet the leather, then turn the seam to the center. Let dry with the knife in it. You have to learn to make your own patterns. Each different knife will need its own.

 

[LRB]

Pondoro, to make a simple center seam sheath, you make it as a side seam with no welt. Wet the leather, then turn the seam to the center. Let dry with the knife in it. You have to learn to make your own patterns. Each different knife will need its own. To make one like this takes a little more than what I described. The sheath has to be pressed flat. Email me if you want details.

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[paulvallandigham]

Wicke: That is a terrific looking sheath. Thanks for the picture and your many skills. I like a 3/4 sheath for these kinds of project, where the sheath covers three fourths or more of the length of both the blade and handle. My Puuka has a sheath that covers more than 7/8 of the knife, but getting the knife out of the sheath has proven not that difficult. I was surprised.

 

[pondoro]

I can gin up a side seam pattern, then turn it. Seems simple now that I know the trick.

 

[LRB]

Pondoro, one important thing is to make the sheath fit as close as possible, if you are going to press it, or it will be oversized. also, if pressing, trim the edge back to no more than 1/16" above the stitching, or it will spead out wider than you might imagine. It helps to hammer the edge after you center it, to get it started, then press it.

 

[50cal.cliff]

Wick,really great info as always. :bow:
I've got a tutorial in my favorites about that kind of a sheath, but I think they left that trick out! :grin:

 

[paulvallandigham]

Don't hammer the leather directly with the head of the hammer. Use a scrop piece of wood against the leather and hammer on the wood instead. With a good bench vise, and some C-clamps, you can use two strips of wood to help clamp the leather closed the entire length of the sheath, and leave it to dry in that shape. If you put the actual blade in the sheath for forming, oil or lube it well- crisco works just fine- and then wrap it in plastic to protect the blade from rusting. The plastic will give the sheath just enough extra room to allow the blade to move freely in and out after the sheath dries.

 

[LRB]

I hammer the seam directly. As far as boards. Not a good idea. They will leave the wood grain imprinted on the leather. Been there! I use one inch maple with a layer of polished 1/4" paper micarta glued to it. I suppose one could wrap a board in visqueen, tack it tight. That may work. I also wrap my blades in duck tape, then a good coat of wax over the tape.