Knife

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

JamesG

45 Cal.
Joined
Oct 11, 2006
Messages
525
Reaction score
0
Not for shure what to call it. This was forges last of winter and set for awhile tell I could muster the courage to quanch the thin blade.I stained the elk with black leather dye and acorn brown mixed togeither then appied on the antler and dried with a torch then rubbed offf with a clean cloth. The finish is tru-oil and then wax.This blade is quanched in 100 degree water.
Blade-W1
Handle Elk Tin.
Pummel and front piece-Plumer solder.

Picture2726.jpg

Picture2727.jpg
 
Looks good!

How did you temper and anneal it? I have run into a few problems with some of the thinner blades cracking near the edge, and I was wondering how you might have gotten around that with the annealing process

Loki
 
Loki I normilzed the blade twice. On w steel you can get the grain of the steel to small and the steel well not harden,I heated my water 100 degree F.I use a piece of muffle pipe to put my blade inside it and put that in the forge. Turn my blower on enought to keep the fire hot .I did this at night in the dark. what the color to it got evenh orange color. then I edge quanch the blade.In the 100 degree water,For about couple second,then quanched the whole blade in oil. cleaned it off then baked the blade in the oven at 400 degree 3 times each time letting it cool I temper my blades a dark straw color .You can not qouanch all steel in water,And water is 50/50 chance on brakeing.

I normalize by bringing the blade up to none mag.then put the tang of the knife in a vice,If you need some pics let me know the terms are hard to keep straight.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Interesting”¦
About how fast does the blade of the knife cool in the air during annealing? Have you tried a different cooling medium for this step before for thin pieces? Do you run into problems with the edge cracking when you move to the oil bath? Why do you temper three times @ 400F, rather than one longer time period?

Sorry if I seem to be picking, but you seem to have been doing this for longer than I, and look to know what you are doing, so I ask to find out how to do this, because my work currently is with heavier blades, which are a little more forgiving, but I would like to get better at the thin steel work
 
On the thin blade i was afraid to stick in my perlite box because I was worried it would bend.I have cracked a blade in oil when it come to edge quanching,Do to the blade being to hot.I use the house hold oven to do my tempering,I can control It better for 3 cycles.DO not forget the blade still hot when it cools.I do the same process for my big blades.
 
Ah yes,

I am already a member of the 'All hot metal does not glow' club, and have the initiation scar on my thumb to prove it... I would say that it was a folly of youth, but that implies that I have gotten better.

Loki
 

Latest posts

Back
Top