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Does anyone out there use a thin coat of Kroil on their moulds instead of the usual smoking?
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Kroil instead of Smoke?
- Thread starter Marc Adamchek
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I was reading about this on another forum. I haven't tried it yet. I think the guy talking about it oiled them the night before and gave everything a wipe-down before casting. So far, good old smoke has worked for me, but I'm going to give the Kroil a go.
Len Graves
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I have found that any type of liquid lube used in a mold left the usual residue which one expects for rust protection. When using the mold for casting I find that the residue tends to form a gas(steam?) and causes wrinkles in the balls/bullets. I have not used Kroil, however and would like to see or hear of the results. With the aluminum molds I do not soot or smoke the cavity, and after use I try to keep a ball in the mold which I think helps prevent damage to the mold. Please post your results. Thanks.
I don't smoke the aluminum molds. I did smoke Lyman moulds but only because someone told me to when I first started casting in 1970.
I don't oil them either.
But, I have some Dillon mould release that I'll be experimenting with next time I cast.
I don't oil them either.
But, I have some Dillon mould release that I'll be experimenting with next time I cast.
I got a stick of soapstone. I believe that was
what it was...it is a flat stick a little thicker
than a popsickle stick. welders us it to mark on
iron for cutting with a torch...if it can take
that kinda heat it can survive on a mold...any
way it works better than smoke and much easier
to apply. I just carve the end round and it fits
in the bullet cavity and the pour hole....
Wulf
what it was...it is a flat stick a little thicker
than a popsickle stick. welders us it to mark on
iron for cutting with a torch...if it can take
that kinda heat it can survive on a mold...any
way it works better than smoke and much easier
to apply. I just carve the end round and it fits
in the bullet cavity and the pour hole....
Wulf
I don't smoke, quit that a long time ago. Actually I forgot to do it and didn't notice a real difference. I tried the kroil. Looked all over and couldn't find it so I ordered it. When I tried it, I didn't notice a difference there either.
One guy I heard from swares by it. He says to wife it on the mould cavity lightly with a q-tip while the mould is hot so it drys instantly.
Another guy that worked in commercial casting plant said they used WD-40. I tried it, sprayed it on while the mould was hot and it would dry instantly. It would also cool the mould down a little and the Bullets or RBs wouldn't come out good for awhile until the mould heated back up. It seemed to help a little but not much.
I did use spray moly for awhile too and it seamed to work pretty good but the problem with it and other mould releases is they flake off after awhile needing reapplied and then it starts to build up. It is not that easy to get off without damging the mould either after it build up.
If you have a problem mould one of the best things you can do is lap it or first take a god close look with a magnifying glass for burs and rough spots.
One guy I heard from swares by it. He says to wife it on the mould cavity lightly with a q-tip while the mould is hot so it drys instantly.
Another guy that worked in commercial casting plant said they used WD-40. I tried it, sprayed it on while the mould was hot and it would dry instantly. It would also cool the mould down a little and the Bullets or RBs wouldn't come out good for awhile until the mould heated back up. It seemed to help a little but not much.
I did use spray moly for awhile too and it seamed to work pretty good but the problem with it and other mould releases is they flake off after awhile needing reapplied and then it starts to build up. It is not that easy to get off without damging the mould either after it build up.
If you have a problem mould one of the best things you can do is lap it or first take a god close look with a magnifying glass for burs and rough spots.
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My molds are aluminum, but I thought I still had to smoke 'em. So I kroiled one, smoked one and did nothing to the other. They all released the balls like champs so....
Farmerted said:
My balls release just fine nekkid from the aluminum moulds.
I am trying the mould release stuff because in this game we are always trying new ideas.
I guess I've never lubed or smoked the cavity on any round ball mold at all. Never had trouble that a rap with the wood knocker on the handle didn't fix.
The "knock" is just part of my rhythm.
Might be different for Bullet, Minnie, Maxi types.
I do lube the guide pins an sprue cutter with high temp anti-seize, :idunno:
The "knock" is just part of my rhythm.
Might be different for Bullet, Minnie, Maxi types.
I do lube the guide pins an sprue cutter with high temp anti-seize, :idunno:
+1 for me, never knew I was supposed to use anything. My .375 mold is steel / iron, so I wipe it with light oil if I am storing it for a long time (probably a mistake. The .490 mold never got any lube, till this last time. I was getting wrinkles so I rubbed it with beeswax while it was hot; didnt help :cursing:
I tried lube on my lee moulds in the begining. It was a terrible experiment, left black crud that I had to polish off. I now use smoke at the very beginning of a casting session and it woks well. Please let us know how it works for you, I'm always ready to learn something new ! :hmm:
nilo
nilo
Best idea is to NEVER let any oil get near a bullet or ball mould. If you do you must remove it before casting. Lot of casters ,that live in a humid enviroment, store moulds in a jar of solvent or kerosene so they can't rust and don't have to get the oil off before they cast. It's dry here where I live so never necessary to do any thing but set them on a shelf til needed. Some folks smoke their moulds when the actual problem in a little oil still in the pores of the mould causing wrinkles but sometimes Lee moulds seem to work better when smoked, I sent one back to the factory once and when it came back they had smoked it heavy, still cast way over size.Smoking didn't help that.
Deadeye
Deadeye
hanshi
Cannon
Always having lived in humid environments I finally caught on and started storing my iron molds in army ammo cans with a bit of desiccant. I keep many iron molds out and exposed to air but they are in my little shop that has a couple of "Golden Rods" that reduce humidity and for years, now, no rust.
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