L&R Lock for Lyman GPR

[Randall Slemp]

Thanks Charlie. In fact, that's what I am going to do..at least for a while. I've just begun this process and I intend to shoot for a while before I make any replacement part changes. The challenge of improving the reliability is something I want to work through. However, I may upgrade the lock and triggers later, as I doubt I will buy any other flintlocks, this will probably be it so customizing it appeals to me. I really like the looks of the L&R lock & Davis triggers on this rifle, I think the Lyman lock looks a bit small for the size of the rifle. The rifle is not an exact copy anyway so the changes appeal to me. I really like the basic rifle, just may want to improve it to my own satisfaction. However as you correctly stated, money does not grow on trees so no need to be hasty. Thanks for your input. All the comments from everyone are helpful, that's what I like about this forum, really good folks.

 

[CrackStock]

Bought an L&R lock to convert a percussion Pedersoli to flint. The original lock on my GPR sparks better and is faster than the L&R.

I have read this through several times and it never makes any more sense.

Did you really mean to say that a Lyman percussion sparks better than an L&R flint? :shocked2:

If so, I fully intend to drive to Sumter and take Brother Cox to task for this! :wink:

Seriously, I went out to both his old shop and the newer one for parts and social calls. I enjoyed learning about his processes. If his locks do not satisfy, he will make them good.

Having said this, I have also heard good things about Lyman locks. (I only have Lyman caplocks myself, but friends have the flints)

I would buy the correct longer set screw to make the trigger operate better and open the touch hole first. Failing that, I would swap out the trigger.
:thumbsup:

CS

 

[ebiggs1]

 

I'll give you your due,(but) do you know of a place where you can buy a fully functioning custom rifle with similar features for less than $700 bucks? I am unaware of any but that does not mean there isn't one.

I gave in, Charlie, and agreed to the price increase since I did my last one but even at that price ($700) you didn't respond to the query. Maybe there is, I am not in the market for any more guns so I have not been checking. The fact remains if MoriningMan wants to do these “upgrades” (even at $700) to his GPR, he will not only have a good rifle, he will have a very good rifle. Those mods make the GPR as good as anybodies rifle. This being cost as your determining factor. Looks as to whether it is HC/PC enough is not on the table.

 

[Semisane]

Bought an L&R lock to convert a percussion Pedersoli to flint. The original lock on my GPR sparks better and is faster than the L&R.

I have read this through several times and it never makes any more sense.

Did you really mean to say that a Lyman percussion sparks better than an L&R flint?

No CrackStock. The lock on my Lyman GPR flintlock outperforms the L&R lock I purchased for my Pedersoli when I converted the Pedersoli from percussion to flint. Maybe I just happened to get an excellent Lyman and a so-so L&R.

 

[ebiggs1]

I think you got a faulty L&R. I have five Lyman flintlocks and they all spark well. But no where as well as any of my L&R's do. One L&R did have to make a trip back to the factory because it didn't work very good. But they were real nice folks and repaired it quickly and sent it back overnight.

 

[Stubert]

$700.00 dollars buys all the parts in a kit from TOTW, you'll have a rifle worth in excess of $1000.00 when you are done. Myself, I would look at the used market, I bought a Lehman full stock flint in .62 cal., assembled from a TOTW kit for only $350.00 2 yrs. ago.

 

[Semisane]

$700.00 dollars buys all the parts in a kit from TOTW, you'll have a rifle worth in excess of $1000.00 when you are done. Myself, I would look at the used market, I bought a Lehman full stock flint in .62 cal., assembled from a TOTW kit for only $350.00 2 yrs. ago.

I see statements like this now and then on this forum, and it always confuses me. I'm left wondering. If a $700 collection of parts ends up being assembled into a gun worth $1,000, why are such guns available fairly often for well under $1,000?

 

[ebiggs1]

... where you can buy a fully functioning custom rifle with similar features for less than $700 bucks?

You missed the same point that Charlie did. If you were to do the Lyman kit GPR (as you mentioned a collection of parts), you can have it for well less than $700 dollars. Even at today's prices.
I failed to understand the comparison of value. If the assembled $700 dollars parts gun is worth a $1000, why were you able to buy a similar one for $350?

But the next point is, if you think a $700 parts gun from whomever, is as quality as the modified GPR.
My answer is, the modified GPR is every bit as good, maybe better. Everybody has to make their own decision but if MorningMan does these mods, the fact remains, he will have a very nice rifle.
Plus at a cost that is, at the very least, in line with whatever else is out there.

 

[Stubert]

I bought mine in 2008, at a local gun show. The gun was assembled in the early 80's. It is identical to the Lehman fullstock in the TOTW catolouge, other than the color of the stock and the brand of barrel (mine is a Sharon). I don't know why people build things and sell them for less than the invesment. It is also very common in the classic car market, put 20 grand into a restore and when you get bored, sell it fot 10 grand. Go figuire

 

[ebiggs1]

Perceived value and “actual” value. They are seldom the same.

 

[fire-n-brimstone]

An item is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it.


Andy

 

[BadHorse]

i have the GPR flinter in 50 cal, and yes i did convert mine to the L&R lock. what i also did was shoot the rifle as is for a couple years before i did. that gave me an opportunity to learn to shoot it. my main reason for the switch was i just didnt like the look or feel of Lymans lock. when i did do the conversion i had issues with the lock. it had to go back to L&R three times! once for a new frizzen and tunning, twice for the lock screw (the threads in the bridle kept stripping out). i bring this up to point out that L&R's customer service is most AWESOME! they bent over backwards to make me happy with my lock. that and i also did the davis deerslayer trigger upgrade. and wow! ifin i was you, i would pop the davis triggers in your GPR and go learn the gun. then down the road get the L&R lock. like ebiggs said, no it wont have faster ignition, but you will be happy with its performance. my L&R lock throws enough sparks to light a wet mule.

 

[Randall Slemp]

Thanks Karwelis. Good feedback. I have basically decided to wait a bit on making any upgrades on my GPR until I fire it more and work through some of the other issues - as you say "learn" the rifle before spending more money. I agree the Davis triggers would be the least expensive change which everyone seems to like, but my Lyman trigger set actually seems pretty good to me and I have not yet used the adjustment screw! Perhaps I'm too forgiving on these things. Like you, my main reason for wanting to upgrade was how the changes improve the look of the rifle in addition to improving the performance. However, since I've only put 30 balls through it, and am still working on enlarging the touch hole liner to make it more reliable (currently at .067, likely will drill to .070), I think I'll stay the course for a while. I am currently shooting .535 balls with pillow ticking in front of 65gr of Goex 2F with 3F for priming. Still have a lot of things to try before I make changes even though I like the looks of the L&R/Davis mods. Thanks again for your post.

 

[BadHorse]

I agree the Davis triggers would be the least expensive change which everyone seems to like, but my Lyman trigger set actually seems pretty good to me and I have not yet used the adjustment screw! Perhaps I'm too forgiving on these things.

do not waste your time on that factory trigger set. i wish to god i had purchased the davis triggers when i first got my GPR instead of waiting like i did.

 

[ebiggs1]

I am going to repeat this than I will leave you alone to discover. Drill the touch hole with a 5/64th and be done with it. Just put a n extra 1/8th inch piece of leather under the flint. And shoot away! It will work pretty good and you won't have as much frustration in learning it. Making a boom is better than pssssst........ :thumbsup:

 

[Randall Slemp]

Thanks, but just don't want to move to the 5/64 just yet (I read your post on the velocity changes). Believe me I'm not really frustrated by this work in process - knew what to expect from this forum and all the good feedback to new shooters.
The first time out shooting (7 shots) I had 2 FITP and 1 no flash with the original TH liner. Second time out (12 shots) I drilled to 1/16 and had 2 FITP). Third time out (11 shots) I drilled to .067 and had 1 FITP which I called as I detected what looked like a little moisture in the touch hole but decided to try the shot anyway. In all cases I reprimed the pan once and the rifle fired. So, I'm making progress. Also refining my cleaning and lubing between shots. The latest is, light olive oil for the patch (1-2 drops) then one lightly spit moistened cleaning patch after the shot followed by one dry patch, then reload. This is what I used for the 11 shot string, think I had too much spit on the particular cleaning patch that caused the FTF about shot #4. I switched to light spit and she blasted fine for the rest of the string. Seems more accurate too as I'm finally beginning to control my initial flinching. So anyway, I'm taking my time and making progress I think. Thanks for your post. I'm learning a lot from all of you.
P.S. I'll try that extra piece of leather too.

 

[Randall Slemp]

A little update. Took the GPR out for a session. Made three changes this time: (1) drilled the TH liner to .070; (2) switched to Hoppe's #9 BP Solvent & Patch Lube for lubing the patches and cleaning; (3) eliminated picking the TH.

Only had time to fire 10 shots. All went off perfectly with zero FITP (did have one no spark, but that was probably due to the agate which I have not as yet switched out to a real flint - didn't have time to scrounge up the leather pad and reset before this session). I tried the Hoppe's as a patch lube (4 drops on cut at the muzzle .013 pillow ticking with the .535 ball) and was pleased as I was able to recover the patches - the olive oil that I had been using seemed to be incinerating the patches into burnt ring on those that I could find. Still have holes in the patches, probably from the rifling cuts from the new bore (only 40 total shots so far) but atleast the patches are in one piece. I did notice change in point of impact on the target so upped the charge from 65 gr of 2f to 70 gr which will now test for a while. When she fires it is stll a Ka-pow with an occasional Kpow but not near close to a straight Pow or even kPow (if that makes sense).
I'm shooting from an improvised (sort of wobbly) bench at a little over 60 yards at a "50 yard Official pistol target". I can see that the rifle has good accuracy potential when I control my flinching (If I wear ear muffs I do a bit better, but have switched back to ear plugs as I like to hear a little of the report - plus ear muffs seem, well, a bit unnatural when firing a ML).
Don't seem to be able to fire many shots when I'm out at my shooting spot which is a piece of heavily treed canyon property that we own about 30mi from our home; there is always some clearing or weed control or something to do there before I actually start shooting.
Anyway, that's the story for now. Next time out I will have the flint changed over to include the elevating pad which will hopefully eliminate the occasional no spark. No matter, sure do like this GPR, eventually I'll post a picture with a little of my kit.

 

[theDuck]

Don't seem to be able to fire many shots when I'm out at my shooting spot which is a piece of heavily treed canyon property that we own about 30mi from our home; there is always some clearing or weed control or something to do there BEFORE I actually start shooting.

I think we found your problem. :rotf: Your priorities are out of alignment.

 

[Randall Slemp]

You are right theDuck, funny how this work stuff gets in the way of the fun! :wink: Well, I haven't been out to shoot yet, but was able to switch over to a real flint. Raised it a bit with the leather pad and tested a couple of times just snapping the lock which produced what seems a useful increase in the number of sparks - so we'll see how she does next time out.