Lancaster Build

[robstock]

Well I have fit the trigger, lock and barrel on my Late Lancaster. The tang right at the barrel lug is raised just a hair above the stock. Is this something I should work to eliminate? The barrel seems set in its channel so it would require removing material from the barrel channel as well as the tang groove.

My concern is creating a bigger issue than I already have. And when I say it is raised a hair that is all it is. So I am not sure I have an issue at all.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Well I have fit the trigger, lock and barrel on my Late Lancaster. The tang right at the barrel lug is raised just a hair above the stock. Is this something I should work to eliminate? The barrel seems set in its channel so it would require removing material from the barrel channel as well as the tang groove.

My concern is creating a bigger issue than I already have. And when I say it is raised a hair that is all it is. So I am not sure I have an issue at all.

View attachment 280930View attachment 280932

The top photo clearly shows the barrel itself if too high. The barrel needs to go down. See why it is not down, and take the measure to correct it.
Larry

 

[robstock]

The top photo clearly shows the barrel itself if too high. The barrel needs to go down. See why it is not down, and take the measure to correct it.
Larry

Ok so the tang should be flush to the stock.

 

[robstock]

The top photo clearly shows the barrel itself if too high. The barrel needs to go down. See why it is not down, and take the measure to correct it.
Larry

Well I have fit the trigger, lock and barrel on my Late Lancaster. The tang right at the barrel lug is raised just a hair above the stock. Is this something I should work to eliminate? The barrel seems set in its channel so it would require removing material from the barrel channel as well as the tang groove.

My concern is creating a bigger issue than I already have. And when I say it is raised a hair that is all it is. So I am not sure I have an issue at all.

View attachment 280930View attachment 280932

I also have another issue. When they inlet the trigger they removed too much material in the front and rear and the trigger rocks. Thus if you push on the back the front pops up and vise versa if you push on the front.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Ok so the tang should be flush to the stock.

Yes, but also the barrel. One can make the tang flush, but that won't necessarily correct the barrel being too high .
Larry

 

[robstock]

Yes, but also the barrel. One can make the tang flush, but that won't necessarily correct the barrel being too high .
Larry

Understand. I need to determine if it is the tang inletting that is too shallow and thus keeping everything too high or the barrel channel or a combination of both.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I also have another issue. When they inlet the trigger they removed too much material in the front and rear and the trigger rocks. Thus if you push on the back the front pops up and vise versa if you push on the front.

View attachment 280951

Not a problem: Shim the trigger plate inlet with thin cardboard strips or fill with wood putty where too low. If you use wood putty go a tad high, then you can shave it down to the right height after it sets up. trigger plate should end up flush with the stock, but then you may also end up lacking proper trigger function. Sometimes a trigger needs to be closer to the sear to work best, sometimes further away from the sear to work best. Hard to tell what you have at this point.
Larry

 

[robstock]

Not a problem: Shim the trigger plate inlet with thin cardboard strips or fill with wood putty where too low. If you use wood putty go a tad high, then you can shave it down to the right height after it sets up. trigger plate should end up flush with the stock, but then you may also end up lacking proper trigger function. Sometimes a trigger needs to be closer to the sear to work best, sometimes further away from the sear to work best. Hard to tell what you have at this point.
Larry

Thanks for the advice on this. If I level it out it sits pretty flush. Seems to interact with the sear fine but will determine that once I am ready for final fitting.

 

[MAC1967]

I agree with barrel a bit too high . . that's probably an easy fix . . . and I also agree with shimming the trigger as bending it would be a bear and shimming it avoids any issue with the overall inlet that might occur with a light bending of the trigger plate. . . But I am not the expert that many on this forum are, which is what is so great about this site.

 

[Salty Cracker]

Understand. I need to determine if it is the tang inletting that is too shallow and thus keeping everything too high or the barrel channel or a combination of both.

Inletting black is your friend. It will tell you.

 

[rich pierce]

Other than a Kibler kit, it’s common to need to make adjustments. Where is the top of the pan relative to the mid-point of the barrel? If below the centerline, this is further evidence that the barrel needs to be inlet deeper.

To solve your trigger issue, first determine if the whole assembly could be inletted a little deeper. Then the fore stock could be slimmed vertically.

It’s not intuitive but many kits leave extra wood EVERYWHERE, allowing some customization. So the cheekpiece could be oversized, the wrist could be oversized vertically, the comb nose may be more forward than absolutely necessary, same with all of the forestock.

If interested in building something that looks like an original from such a kit, I suggest looking at a lot of actual original late Lancaster original rifles. Fordney, Gonter, Gumph, Gibbs, Brooks (not Mike; he’s not THAT ancient), and so on.

 

[robstock]

Other than a Kibler kit, it’s common to need to make adjustments. Where is the top of the pan relative to the mid-point of the barrel? If below the centerline, this is further evidence that the barrel needs to be inlet deeper.

To solve your trigger issue, first determine if the whole assembly could be inletted a little deeper. Then the fore stock could be slimmed vertically.

It’s not intuitive but many kits leave extra wood EVERYWHERE, allowing some customization. So the cheekpiece could be oversized, the wrist could be oversized vertically, the comb nose may be more forward than absolutely necessary, same with all of the forestock.

If interested in building something that looks like an original from such a kit, I suggest looking at a lot of actual original late Lancaster original rifles. Fordney, Gonter, Gumph, Gibbs, Brooks (not Mike; he’s not THAT ancient), and so on.

Thanks. Thats good advice.

 

[CuNosecap]

I wouldn’t worry about the trigger yet. You are getting ahead of yourself. Do what others have said to remedy barrel and tang position. After you drill and tap for the tang bolt, then you can adjust trigger plate a little.
Also, the tang will be flush with stock after properly inlet and additio wood is removed from wrist etc.
Think one step at a time.

 

[IanH]

Inletting black, Prussian Blue, soot from a stick dipped in paint thinner and lit and waved under the barrel, anything to show you where the touchy spots are and what you need to do. Use a wooden mallet or chunk of 2x4 to seat the barrel firmly down and back. The triggers are a whole other deal, fix the interface with with the sear (the **** should fully **** in both positions without touching either trigger bar) and then worry about your stock profile. Like Bill wrote, you may need to sink the triggers deeper in the stock and file off the excess wood. This is NOT a Kibler kit, it's up to you to get these interfaces correct.

I would highly recommend some reading. All the basic fit and interface stuff is explained by several good longrifle books available from the places that sell the kits.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Seating the breech end further down will seat the tang and also correct this wood to barrel gap at the top.

 

[robstock]

Inletting black, Prussian Blue, soot from a stick dipped in paint thinner and lit and waved under the barrel, anything to show you where the touchy spots are and what you need to do. Use a wooden mallet or chunk of 2x4 to seat the barrel firmly down and back. The triggers are a whole other deal, fix the interface with with the sear (the **** should fully **** in both positions without touching either trigger bar) and then worry about your stock profile. Like Bill wrote, you may need to sink the triggers deeper in the stock and file off the excess wood. This is NOT a Kibler kit, it's up to you to get these interfaces correct.

I would highly recommend some reading. All the basic fit and interface stuff is explained by several good longrifle books available from the places that sell the kits.

Yeah I’m going to let everything sit till the books I ordered arrive.