Lead ball casting questions from a beginner?

[Harold1950]

I also use the bottom drain Lee pot. When it gets the drips or won't shut off, I use a carefully bent paper clip and work it carefully inside the spout to clean out the dross or whatever is causing it to not seal. Usually works for a while then I have to repeat the process.

 

[jamesthomas]

About drossing, I have never needed anything to get dirt and other stuff to float to the top, I just give it a stir and the dross will float to the top, adding stuff to the lead just gives you more stuff to get out.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Always wash the molds, use any degrease agent you like and clean'm so there's no resiude left.
Lee molds need a little lube on the guide pins,, an automotive grade anti seize works well,, just a little goes a long way.
I don't bother smoking the molds.

For comparison, my technique, not necessarily better, just mine, is to spray a new mould with carburetor cleaner. Sometimes I smoke them but often do not. As for lube on Lee moulds, I poo-pooed the idea for a long time then tried it. :shocked2: Wow, wadda difference. Now, I spray the mould inside, alignment pins and hinge with mould release as my lube. I have a couple can of mould release spray product from Midway Arms, it is called DROP OUT. One can will last a long time, doesn't take much to work.

 

[necchi]

Carb Cleaner works,, I go after a new mold pretty hard, I want it clean-clean. Might have something to do with my first Lee mold that I didn't clean,, the stuff on it from the factory turned to black carbon I could not get off!
That's the tough part of Lee molds, they're so touchy when it comes to lining up the blocks with those sideways mounted pins they use. One pour with the blocks out of line and ya get this tiny bit of lead that'll stick to the block face and now they won't close,, cast ball don't work so good when there's a line of extra lead around the thing.

About drossing, I have never needed anything to get dirt and other stuff to float to the top, I just give it a stir and the dross will float to the top, adding stuff to the lead just gives you more stuff to get out.

Drossing has been talked about here for years. Doing something instead of nothing is better. If you stir with a wood stick,, that'll work but it's much-much slower. It's a science thing actually, adding a pea size bit of any wax really helps. You can do it with saw dust, heck dry grass clippings, anything that'll burn and add carbon. A wood stick will burn but darn slow.

 

[M. De Land]

I don't agree that bubbles are unavoidable. If all is correct including technique there will be no bubble under the sprue.
If there are you have error-ed some where in the process.
Casting with a ladle is the most precise as the dip is drawn from the center of the melt and the head pressure at the sprue hole is precisely the same each time, an impossibility with a spouted melting pot.
I have used both a great deal and the ladle is far better for heavy and long , hard to cast bullets.

 

[hanshi]

My experience, too. I also have a screwdriver handy to give the rod a twist when the spout won't stop flowing. When the spout clogs up I use a paper clip as well.

 

[Rifleman1776]

Casting with a ladle is the most precise as the dip is drawn from the center of the melt and the head pressure at the sprue hole is precisely the same each time, an impossibility with a spouted melting pot.

I have seen experienced casters make exactly the opposite claim. They believe a bottom pour is the most consistent. I have done both. With the Lyman I like, and preferred, bottom pour. However, I was aware that pour pressures could vary with the amount of lead in the pot. With that in mind I added lead as soon as the level dropped a bit. With a little experience I knew when a 1 lb. ingot could be added. But, now I use a dipper and all is still well. The key, as I see it, is to have a consistent technique. Make every move the same. It actually can be fun and is part of the total ml experience.