Lead Remover?

[redwing]

Anyone know of a lead remover. I have been doing it the
hard way. scrubbing away hour after hour. It works but
it is very slow.
Bought one of those Pawn Shop bargins, nice gun but it
had been shot with mini balls. The bore under all that
lead is nice. However I am just not a Lead Miner and
am tired out diggin in that hole. :cry: :cry:

Redwing :redthumb:

 

[Birddog6]

Shooters Choice or Hoppies #9 Lead Remover.

Don't get it on the stock, it may eat the finish. DO NOT leave it in there overnight.

Read & follow the instructions.

:results:

 

[redwing]

Thanks Bird dog I have to go down to Salt Lake Monday
I'll look for some Hoppie's Lead Remover. This sounds
like powerful stuff, just what I need.

Redwing :redthumb: :thanks:

 

I've not tried the Hoppe's #9 Lead Remover, but Shooter's Choice does the job. Don't confuse Hoppe's #9 Lead Remover with regular 'ol Hoppe's #9 Powder Solvent... I don't think they're the same thing, and in my experience Hoppe's #9 Powder Solvent doesn't really do much for getting lead out of a barrel. :m2c:

 

[F.G. Ford]

The very best lead remover you can find is " Mercury ". Yeah the type you have in thermometers.
Do not let it get on your barrel finish it will attack it.
Just plug the nipple an slosh it back an forth.
It is better if you can find enough to fill the barrel as much as possible.
Also remember it is verrrrrry toxic!
Dangerous if you have children and open cuts.
It will remove every bit of lead deposits without any effort.
It is heavy and will leak through any hole or crack, so secure it that you may not lose it.
DO NOT HEAT it. It becomes even more toxic.
It is quite safe to handle if kept at room temperature.

Best Regards

Fred Ford

 

[redwing]

Ford, I agree used it years ago. But never see the stuff
anymore.

Redwing :redthumb:

 

[robinghewitt]

Lead doesn't react with much, but I think I saw an electrolysis gadget to get it out of a barrel.

:m2c:

 

Here's a design for one I picked up somewhere on the internet:

First things first...This is not ``Colin's Electronic Bore Cleaner"...A Friend of mine and longtime gun-nut and Internet jockey came across this device on another website (He cannot remember exactly where)...So if you want to call it something, lets call it ``The 50 Cent Electronic Bore Cleaner".

All you need is an electrode, a power supply and some wires and alligator clips. The electrode can be a coat hanger (make sure it is free of any varnish) or a store-bought thin wire rod. Use some heat-shrink tubing at the bottom of the rod and along its length in various places to prevent the rod from contacting the gun at any point in the barrel. (A short Circuit) The power supply consists of 2 `C' cell batteries simply duct-taped together. There is no need for any fancy battery holders. Use only the 2 `C' cells! There is no need for more power than this! The Positive power supply lead is attached to a good contact point of the rifle such as the rear sight. The Negative lead goes to the top of the electrode.

Stand the gun upright and lock it into this position. Plug the chamber end of the gun...This can be done by using a fired shell wrapped with some Teflon tape or an automotive tire Valve stem trimmed to fit snugly. Tie a rag around the muzzle end of the barrel to prevent spills!...I also often wrap a layer of duct-tape (The handy-mans best friend) around the muzzle so I can overfill the bore slightly without it leaking.

The barrel is filled with ``Household Ammonia"...You will find this at the grocery store or wherever your wife buys household cleaners...The strength is usually around 10 - 20%, you do not any stronger than that. Don't dilute it, add any other agents to it or substitute anything else for it.

Once the bore is filled with ammonia, connect the wires and let the device do its job for ONE HOUR. Keep a close eye on it as the ammonia will foam quite a bit making top-ups needed quite often. After the hour, the gun will need to be thouroughly cleaned with standard bore cleaners and oiled to prevent rust.

So what does this thing do and when do you use it? This device is using the actions as a chrome plating shop does but in reverse. The ammonia lifts copper and the electrode attracts it like a magnet. You will see the electrode is quite a mess at the end of an hours use. Just wipe off the deposits though and its ready to use again.

This thing is not meant to be used as a regular cleaning tool...There is no need for it after a days shooting inmost cases. It is meant to be used on guns that have not had a proper cleaning in many years...The ones that you can run a patch up and down all day and they still come out dirty!
Follow the design and instructions exactly, Use it for what it is and it will save you hours of cleaning time. Try and overpower it, forget that you left it on, or misuse it it any way and you might end up with damage...I have yet to see any damage from this thing but I use it as I state here.

 

[SAJones]

I used to use something called Lead Away, which was a yellow chemically impregnated cloth (doesn't give you more cloth, it's just thoroughly soaked). You cut a chunk off like a cleaning patch & work it through the barrel. Worked good, but took an extra hour to clean the black gunk out. Now I use the Shooter's Choice, as I couldn't find the yellow rag & Shooter's Choice was all the local gunsmith had. Needed it for a used Ruger Old Army (oops, not a flintlock) w/ a well leaded barrel: cleaned it out in minutes w/o the mess.

 

[waksupi]

I've shot benchrest cast bullet modern rifle competition for years, and seldom have any leading to deal with. With proper bullet fit and a good lube, standard velocities are common. Leading isn't. What the accepted thing with the pro's is, is pretty simple. Get some of the copper Chore Boy scrub pads at the supermarket. Unravel some threads of it, and wrap it around a bristle brush. Make it a fairly tight fit, but not too tight. Usually about twenty full strokes will take care of the worst leading. If it is really abused, it may take more work.
This method is being used on high dollar competition rifles that shoot under quarter inch groups regularly, and if it would damage a bore, it wouldn't be used. The copper is much softer than the barrels, and really strips out the leading.
Cheap, and easy. And much faster than any chemical solution.

 

[roundball]

I have one of those Outer's battery operated Electro-Chemical kits designed to remove copper and lead...uses a different solition for each...works great.

As mentioned, it's not an everyday use sort of thing, but if you buy a used rifle and want to get the bore to a known starting point before you use it, throw this together and stand the rifle in a corner for a couple hours.

You'll be amazed at what will be pulled off the bore walls...no pain, no strain...and probably cleaner than you could ever get one by hand.

The second amazing thing to learn is that after you've chemically pulled the copper or lead of the walls, how much powder residue there is left in the bore, that had previously been "paved over" by the copper or lead.

 

[redwing]

Claypipe-Thanks much, now that sounds like a fun project.
I need to put some fun in this thing. It's about to
make me mean.
Anything that calls for Duct tape and coat hangers is
is right on my level. Now if we could use Krazy Glue?
we would have it. :thanks:

Redwing :redthumb: