Lead too hot?

[rkg1]

I have been casting since the early 70's both round ball and bullets. Years ago I stopped smoking the mold and started using Drop-out from Midway. I coat the cavity and the top and bottom of the sprue plate as well as the top of the mold. It works well for me. I also use Marvellux for fluxing the lead both when making ingots and bullets. I use Lee RCBS Lyman and Saeco molds from 1 to 6 cavity with no problems once they reach temperature. I also broke down and bought a Lyman dial thermometer and that takes all the guess work out of temperature. Most of these things aren't necessary but they make life easier and maybe a little better product.

 

[The Crisco Kid]

I gave up on Marvellux. It builds up a terrible mess on my ladle and pots. I know several other experienced bullet casters who won't use it either. Just about any kind of animal or vegetable fat will work as a flux. Of course, I use Crisco.
As to my Lyman thermometer, I had one checked by a reliable method and it is 50 degrees off. 700 on the dial is actually 750.

 

[45man]

I disagree very much with the suggestion of putting any kind of oil on a bullet mold. The oil polymerizes and you end up with baked-on gunk. Same with bees wax.

What I very much recommend is Moose Juice from Moose Moulds. I suspect it is isopropyl alochol with powdered graphite in it. It paints on with a q-tip and the alcohol evaporates very quickly, leaving behind a very even and tenacious coating of graphite. I put this on the top surface of the mold and the bottom of the sprue plate. It all but eliminates galling.

Graphite is said to cause corrosion on aluminum and hence is forbidden in aviation work as I understand it. But I have had no issues with it on aluminum bullet molds.

If you don't want to find Moose Juice you can also take a pencil and rub down the sprue and mold surfaces. But it doesn't compare to Moose Juice.

https://moosemoulds.wixsite.com/mm2013/moose-juice

Thank you, that is the same as Rapine mold prep and I like the stuff. Now I can get more.

 

[Greenjoytj]

It wasn't until I began using an electric hot plate to preheat my mold that I began getting good keepers on the second casting.

Don't use Marvellux it is hydroscopic, draws moisture out to the air fast. Causes rust in the pot and any steel items it touches. In other words it causes more problems than it solves.

I flux with ground untreated corncob media. Yes it smokes a lot before it turns to charcoal at which time the smoking stops. it is a great flux works like saw dust which I don't have access to.

Smoking the mold is very controversial, some have success some don't. I don't use mold smoking.
I suspect the source of the problems people have with mold smoking is the source of the smoke.
If a wax candle (any kind of wax) you will have problems, because gasified wax will get condensed in the mold cavities, which means you've just painted the mold with a thin layer of wax. Which will turn to gas again when exposed to the melted lead don't be surprised if your balls get pock marked like a golf ball.

If you must smoke your mold use a clean wooden stick, popsicle stick, bamboo skewer etc that has no chemical treatment on it.

The Lyman digital thermometer is good, just don't leave the probe in the melt because the heat travels up the metal probe into the plastic support and that plastic will become soft and melt if left too long in the melt.

If your using aluminum molds (which are great) know that the melt must be heated to higher temperature because the aluminum draws so much heat so fast from the incoming lead pour you will get wrinkly balls. Both the melt and aluminum mold need to be operated together at a much higher temperature than a iron mold needs.

A clean mold is a must. With non blocked air vents and no lead splatter on the mold faces.
Brake cleaner aerosol it the best to blast of oil, wax and finger prints.

Lube the mold top and under side of the sprue plate and pivot points with the highest quality 2 cycle mixed gas engine oil.
When you apply it with a Q-tip If you think you haven't applied enough your have already applied too much. This is the one case where over oiling is not going to help.

The top of an aluminum mold will get galled if lead is allowed to stick to the bottom of the plate.
So keep both of those surfaces lubed to reduce friction and so lead won't stick to them.

You will have faster and greater molding success if the melt is very hot and the mold is also.
When things start to go wrong you've gotten too hot or too cool.
There is a heat range the mold and melt must be operated within for success.
Only through experience will you learn that but a thermometer and an easy to read clock with a seconds hand will get you there much faster.

 

[Kansas Kid]

Sound advice!

 

[maillemaker]

It wasn't until I began using an electric hot plate to preheat my mold that I began getting good keepers on the second casting.

Don't use Marvellux it is hydroscopic, draws moisture out to the air fast. Causes rust in the pot and any steel items it touches. In other words it causes more problems than it solves.

I flux with ground untreated corncob media. Yes it smokes a lot before it turns to charcoal at which time the smoking stops. it is a great flux works like saw dust which I don't have access to.

Smoking the mold is very controversial, some have success some don't. I don't use mold smoking.
I suspect the source of the problems people have with mold smoking is the source of the smoke.
If a wax candle (any kind of wax) you will have problems, because gasified wax will get condensed in the mold cavities, which means you've just painted the mold with a thin layer of wax. Which will turn to gas again when exposed to the melted lead don't be surprised if your balls get pock marked like a golf ball.

If you must smoke your mold use a clean wooden stick, popsicle stick, bamboo skewer etc that has no chemical treatment on it.

The Lyman digital thermometer is good, just don't leave the probe in the melt because the heat travels up the metal probe into the plastic support and that plastic will become soft and melt if left too long in the melt.

If your using aluminum molds (which are great) know that the melt must be heated to higher temperature because the aluminum draws so much heat so fast from the incoming lead pour you will get wrinkly balls. Both the melt and aluminum mold need to be operated together at a much higher temperature than a iron mold needs.

A clean mold is a must. With non blocked air vents and no lead splatter on the mold faces.
Brake cleaner aerosol it the best to blast of oil, wax and finger prints.

Lube the mold top and under side of the sprue plate and pivot points with the highest quality 2 cycle mixed gas engine oil.
When you apply it with a Q-tip If you think you haven't applied enough your have already applied too much. This is the one case where over oiling is not going to help.

The top of an aluminum mold will get galled if lead is allowed to stick to the bottom of the plate.
So keep both of those surfaces lubed to reduce friction and so lead won't stick to them.

You will have faster and greater molding success if the melt is very hot and the mold is also.
When things start to go wrong you've gotten too hot or too cool.
There is a heat range the mold and melt must be operated within for success.
Only through experience will you learn that but a thermometer and an easy to read clock with a seconds hand will get you there much faster.

Some great advice here! I'm still not sold on oil for lubing the sprue plate. But will definitely try the corncob - I have a 50 pound sack for tumbling brass!

 

[Billy Boy]

I've had a couple ball pouring secessions, the first went well, for my first time pouring balls anyway, but the second things went down hill. I'm using a Lee 10# bottom pour hot pot, a six cavity .395" Lee roundball mold and lead from sail boat keel weights, no thermometer. The lead was made into 1lb ingots and is pretty clean. After the first pouring session I emptied the pot and cleaned it well as there was some rust in it. I've been using this pot for years pouring crappie jigs.

This some of the worst ones, sorry for the dirty fingernails, I'd been working in the garden.View attachment 151524View attachment 151525View attachment 151526

Best way to get those fingernails clean is make a batch of bread..

 

[The Appalachian]

It's unbelievable how complicated people can make bullet casting.

● Lee lead pot turned up as hot as it will get.
● pure lead fluxed with bees wax.
● sides and bottom of pot scraped.
● dross skimmed off.
● molds pre-heated on top of the pot.
●cavities smoked with butane lighter.
● two 255 gr 45 cal gang molds, one .490 RB gang mold.
● Ladel poured
● first bullet as good as the last bullet.

 

[hawkeye2]

Best way to get those fingernails clean is make a batch of bread..

Meatloaf works even better.

 

[Billy Boy]

Meatloaf works even better.

Anything that comes to a light at night or is baked at 350 degrees is safe to eat..

 

[Walkingeagle]

I’ve been casting .490 RB’s since 2001 with a Lee single cavity mold, and .50 cal 370gr Maxi’s from a Lyman mold since 2002. Never any issues. This year I acquired a couple new old stock Lyman .375449 and .375248 molds and am struggling hard with them. Sure wish I could help ya, as then I could help myself. Eventually the correct combo of lead temp, mold temp, heat, time, lead quality will reveal itself and the vision will clear up.
Good luck and keep trying.
Walk