leather dye ?

[Rifleman1776]

In another thread the poster mentioned that an item he is making soaked up a lot of dye. I notice the dyes on the market (Tandy, etc.) are quite expensive, like $10.00 for a small bottle.
What is a good source of affordable dyes?

 

[necchi]

Fiebing's Leather Die.
Tandy has the price jacked a little high. There are other sources and you can see quite a variation in $$; http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000HHM20M/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new

I can actually find the stuff localy at a Fleet Supply in the Tack area for under $4, across town a leather repair shop has it for $8, :idunno:

 

[crockett]

As I mentioned- I have trouble with a lot of the stains running if the leather gets wet. The other point is that a lot of the alcohol dyes seem to thin and dry out the leather.I haven't done the walnut hulls yet- maybe that would work better.

 

[BrownBear]

Application methods will affect consumption a lot. Some folks dip the leather. Works great for smooth, even results, but man....

Brushing or daubing is lots harder to apply evenly though. I can use a whole lot applying that way, or used to anyway, until I got a tip from someone here on the forum: Dampen the leather first with water. Wow, does that ever help, and it really cut down on consumption.

I use the least of all for good results when spraying. Even that is best when you dampen the leather first.

And yeah, Fiebings all the way for me these days. If you've settled on a color for lots of projects, there are huge savings in buying by the quart or gallon. Lately I've been using Fiebings Leather Reducer, essentially a thinner. I've found I can cut the dye a good 50% without noticeably lightening results. That's a huge savings. You could probably save even more if you found a cheaper thinner.

 

[Black Hand]

You could also try wiping back the Fiebings color with rubbing alcohol. This seems to remove some of the excess that rubs off onto clothing.

 

[plinker]

I also use the Fiebings dye. I cut it with from 1 to 3 parts of dentured alcohol to 1 part dye and apply it using an air brush.

 

[necchi]

I just use Denatured Alcohol too, guess I never thought of anything else :idunno:

 

[LRB]

I recently discovered if you oil the leather first, and let it sit a day or so, then use the alcohol based Fiebings, the die goes in deeper and very much more evenly. It also does not rub off on clothing. At least not in my experience with it.

 

[Ranger1759]

If you have a Red Wing shop in your town, check there....mine carries several different colors of Fiebings dyes for about 5.00 a bottle....

Ranger

 

[BrownBear]

I recently discovered if you oil the leather first, and let it sit a day or so, then use the alcohol based Fiebings, the die goes in deeper and very much more evenly. It also does not rub off on clothing. At least not in my experience with it.

You have my full attention Wick!

What kind of oil?

 

[omarick1948]

I recently discovered if you oil the leather first, and let it sit a day or so, then use the alcohol based Fiebings, the die goes in deeper and very much more evenly. It also does not rub off on clothing. At least not in my experience with it.

Wick, You stole my thunder, as I was going to mention oiling the leather first before dyeing with alcohol based leather dyes. I learned that from an old saddler. He always used olive oil, so I do the same .. works great!

Rick

 

[LaBonte]

I recently discovered if you oil the leather first, and let it sit a day or so, then use the alcohol based Fiebings, the die goes in deeper and very much more evenly. It also does not rub off on clothing. At least not in my experience with it.

FWIW - the late great Al Stohlman taugh this method years ago, but while you dget better penetration and may not have rub off at first, unless you use a GOOD sealer such as Tankote or Bagkote or one of the acrylic types as the oil evaporates and yes it will do so, the oil will left the powdered pigment to the surface and create rub off. Dampening he leather first with 70% alcohol or plain water will give you better penetration without the subsequent rub off problems

As other have noted Fiebings makes an excellent product (BTW their so-called oil dye has NO oil included - it's just an "improved" version of their regular spirit dyes.)
Angelus also makes excellent leather dyes, and per mast leathersmith and compadre, Will Ghormley, the new improved ECO Flow dyes from Tandy/LF are showing some promise.

To thin spirit dyes such as Fiebings or Angelus dyes I use plain old rubbing alcohol and have now for over 40 years - it works and is cheap....

 

[Capt. Jas.]

Not much need in my typing.
The great Mr. Burrows has added everything, plus to what I was to add to Wick's great post. Worked perfectly as there is a 50/50 chance my information came from Chuck anyway.
Not only a real scholar and doer but a gentleman as well.
Pardon the plug Chuck but you have helped a bunch over the years with your selfless sharing of solid information. :bow:

 

Not only a real scholar and doer but a gentleman as well.
Pardon the plug Chuck but you have helped a bunch over the years with your selfless sharing of solid information. :bow:

Agreed! :hatsoff:


So far all I've used is EcoFlo from Tandy. I work in our spare bedroom for the time being and the water-based dye makes it much more convenient. I saved almost half ordering a bunch by the quart. With my gold membership it's $24 a quart ($0.75/oz) or $5.60 for 4oz ($1.40/oz).

 

[Rick Son]

EVO? ask the guys over at cascity.com leather forum,best on the net!

 

[colmoultrie]

Vinegaroon dye works well for a black color, and it's very cheap. Wash steel wool well to get out the oils in it, then tear off chunks, drop it into a jar, and cover with white vinegar. Let it sit for a week, and you have a dye that reacts very nicely with vegetable tan leather. You get a blueish or brownish black with the first coat, depending on the leather, and the color gets deeper with a second or third coat.

 

[Stophel]

I am told that "vinegaroon" requires REAL oak tanned leather, and I can tell you from practical experience that it will absolutely destroy common "vegetable tanned" leather. Turns it to tissue paper. When I can afford some Wickett & Craig or Hermann Oak leather, I'll try it again, but until then, I'm keeping the vinegar and iron well away from my leather! :grin:

 

[LaBonte]

I am told that "vinegaroon" requires REAL oak tanned leather, and I can tell you from practical experience that it will absolutely destroy common "vegetable tanned" leather. Turns it to tissue paper. When I can afford some Wickett & Craig or Hermann Oak leather, I'll try it again, but until then, I'm keeping the vinegar and iron well away from my leather! :grin:

Then you did something wrong or had some really bad leather.
FWIW - most good bark tanned leather available does not use real oak for tanning today (who told you you had to use real oak tanned?). Most tanneries use other bark sources, mostly South American such as quebracho - Herman Oak is an exception and the leather from RJF Leather is imported old time pit tanned which uses oak bark, but that's about it.
I've used vinegar black (you can also use ferric nitrate - a documented 18th/19th Century method for blackening) now for 45+ years in my capacity as a pro leather crafter (I have used it on the best quality leathers as well as the cheap imports
) and have only seen a few pieces here and there react negatively and that was mostly due to operator error.
1) How long did you leave the leather to soak or did you just apply to the surface with a brush, etc.?
2) Did you rinse well with clear cool water after using the blackening?
3) Did you use a quick mild baking soda wash and then again rinse well after applying the baking soda?(Do not leave too long since you can alkali burn the leather)
4) Did you apply a coat or two of a good leather conditioner such as Lexol or neatsfoot or EVOO to BOTH sides while still damp from the rinse.
5) Did your blackening still smell strongly of vinegar before using? IMO most people use it while it's still too fresh and either needs more iron or more time - BTW you can just use rusty iron water with no acid of any kind - takes longer to "formulate" but it works just like FA or vinegar black since it;s the iron and tannins that generate the black color.

 

[Stophel]

It's been several years since I've tried. I'm sure I swabbed it onto the leather with a rag, and watched it turn blue. Some leathers turned somewhat more grayish, but still blue. Neatsfoot oil was added, after dry. Looked black-ish, and the leather seemed fine for a few days, but later got so weak I could easily tear it with my hands. I think I even tried baking soda on some samples, but got the same results. I've been reluctant to try again since! Never cared for black leather anyway... :haha:

Many things simply don't work for me. I can't make it stain wood either, like others apparently can.

 

[colmoultrie]

Perhaps the problem is in the neatsfoot oil, or maybe it's the interaction between vinegaroon, neatsfoot oil, and the leather's tanning process.

I get the blue color after one coat wiped on - how intense a blue depends on the leather. I usually wipe on a second or third coat, and then I wipe down with olive oil or Nivea from sample bottles my dad got as Dr.'s samples by the boxload. Never had a problem, and I've used it for my swordbelt and my go-to shooting bag, which has about two years of fairly regular use.