leather to hold the flint
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I agree 100% with Tom. I use the thinner leather from an old pair of leather gloves. I had the exact same experience with lead.
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I’ve been using the same piece of real leather (from a glove) in my Fusil for three years. It doesn’t take a lot to have several years worth of leather. One glove yields quite a bit. You could buy one pair of leather gloves at a hardware store and have enough leather for several guns many years.
After thinking it over, I don’t know if the “synthetic “ stuff would work very well because of the heat generated in the pan.
After thinking it over, I don’t know if the “synthetic “ stuff would work very well because of the heat generated in the pan.
Bevel up, or bevel down? That's a question that gets tossed around a lot. It is a very good question, though. I think the bottom line would be to try both, and see which sparks the best and optimizes the life of the flint in your lock.
For the record, I put the bevel up, and the flat side down. I sent two locks to Brad Emig to be tuned up several years ago, and he took the trouble to call me and discuss this. He recommended flat side down, because flints vary in thickness. If you place the bevel down, different flints will strike the frizzen in different places, higher or lower, depending on the thickness of the flint. With the flat side down, the sharp edge of the flint will strike the frizzen in about the same place every time, regardless of the thickness of the flint. Brad felt this consistency was important, as part of his lock tune-up regimen is balancing the springs.
One would think that the flint striking the frizzen higher, with the bevel down, would give a longer "scrape" and more sparks, and also distribute wear on the frizzen better. However, I have followed Brad's advice and have enjoyed very good results. I'm stickin' with it. He is, after all, the "Lock Doctor."
Best regards,
Notchy Bob
Whichever way generates the best sparks for the most number of shots.
the jaws don't loosen; the lead squishes down as you shoot.
About 20 years ago, I cut a worn-out moccasin into right-size pieces, and haven't run out yet. Leather needs to be about 1/16" thick, and soft enough to wrap tightly, with a hole cut in the center so that the flint can be set back in contact with the screw. Lead was annoying; hard to keep the flint in place.
I Never use anything but Leather. Usually my well used old 5/8th Dog leads, skived down to 2mm. Fold and cut a V in the fold to back the flint against the cock screw. Best Black English flints. No failures. It's all a matter of Attention to Detail..
The screw doesn't loosen the lead flatens out as it basically gets hammered when the flint hits the striker.
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I've tried lead once. I smashed down a ball. I had to keep tightening it at first but then it took a set and I didn't need to tighten anymore.
i think it is chambers that warns against using lead. they say it can damage your frizzen,,,,,,,,,,,,
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So, you can use a longer flint and keep the right angle for the frizzen.
Like Dave say's the flash is upwards.That's why the bottom of the touch hole should be level with the top of the pan.. As for Leather I use my old dog leads Skived down to about 1/16th.They're soft and flexible and I have lots of @ 'em. OLD DOG (DEVA DOG WARE)
Not so that can use longer flints but the flint is not going to move back on impact Due to the leathers softness.. OLD DOG..
The size/shape of the flint, and it’s orientation to the strike window on the frizzen generally determines whether my flint rests against the cock screw. For example, using my Large Siler locks, with a 3/4”x7/8’ flint, the optimum position is when the flint rests directly against the cock screw. Using a shorter 3/4”x 3/4” flint, I will not notch the rear of the leather. I can’t say that I’ve ever had the flint slip back when the flint had good contact with the jaws and securely mounted. I generally prefer a longer flint resting against the cock screw that strikes the frizzen at the highest point on the contact window. In this case I can get longer effective flint life and knapping without removing/re-orienting the flint, before the strike point falls below the optimum window on the frizzen.
doesn't lead call for a void / cut out on the rear of the lead, where it makes contact with the top jaw screw? there must have been a purpose for that back in the day. in museum's as at TICONDEROGA at the museums, a lot of period weapons have lead & a cut out for the top jaw screw.
Having the cut out whether it is for a lead wrap or a leather wrap, allows for a longer flint to be installed in the jaws. As the flint is knapped during use and moved out to be closer to the face of the frizzen after knapping, one flint will have longer life. This does work best when there are flats at the top and bottom of the flint.
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this question will plague the ML community in the future. as it has in the past.. as in, since the thing was first invented. some folks get all 'wrapped around the axle about it,' but i try to be more laid back about such issues ... DON'T get all upset and p.o. ed at the world - relax, run some ball, grab some powder, go to the range and make some smoke ... it's all good ...
i think that it is Chambers who won't warranty locks with lead flint wraps. some time ago, i mashed down some lead balls and made wraps for my flint, then i weighed the flint and the leather (this was for a T/C lock - ymmv) if memory serves, the lead was fifteen to twenty percent heavier (on my reloading scale, good to 1/10 grain) and one lead wrap was a little lighter than the heaviest leather.
just for pretty, i trim the leather so that it's pretty close to the shape of the jaws... without the overhang, the leather doesn't get scorched, and i think it makes for a neater appearance. but that's just me - you can do as you see fit.
if you go with lead, you will need to dry-fire the lock a few times and then retighten the jaws to completely seat the lead.
unless you're worried about the warranty issue, i'd go ahead and try it and see which system works best for you.
good luck with your project, and Make Good Smoke
i think that it is Chambers who won't warranty locks with lead flint wraps. some time ago, i mashed down some lead balls and made wraps for my flint, then i weighed the flint and the leather (this was for a T/C lock - ymmv) if memory serves, the lead was fifteen to twenty percent heavier (on my reloading scale, good to 1/10 grain) and one lead wrap was a little lighter than the heaviest leather.
just for pretty, i trim the leather so that it's pretty close to the shape of the jaws... without the overhang, the leather doesn't get scorched, and i think it makes for a neater appearance. but that's just me - you can do as you see fit.
if you go with lead, you will need to dry-fire the lock a few times and then retighten the jaws to completely seat the lead.
unless you're worried about the warranty issue, i'd go ahead and try it and see which system works best for you.
good luck with your project, and Make Good Smoke
Griz44Mag
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I've done both, and both seem to work just fine.this question will plague the ML community in the future. as it has in the past.. as in, since the thing was first invented. some folks get all 'wrapped around the axle about it,' but i try to be more laid back about such issues ... DON'T get all upset and p.o. ed at the world - relax, run some ball, grab some powder, go to the range and make some smoke ... it's all good ...
i think that it is Chambers who won't warranty locks with lead flint wraps. some time ago, i mashed down some lead balls and made wraps for my flint, then i weighed the flint and the leather (this was for a T/C lock - ymmv) if memory serves, the lead was fifteen to twenty percent heavier (on my reloading scale, good to 1/10 grain) and one lead wrap was a little lighter than the heaviest leather.
just for pretty, i trim the leather so that it's pretty close to the shape of the jaws... without the overhang, the leather doesn't get scorched, and i think it makes for a neater appearance. but that's just me - you can do as you see fit.
if you go with lead, you will need to dry-fire the lock a few times and then retighten the jaws to completely seat the lead.
unless you're worried about the warranty issue, i'd go ahead and try it and see which system works best for you.
good luck with your project, and Make Good Smoke
As I have stated before - my new Pedersoli Frontier came with a lead in the jaw and a spare in the box.
Pedersoli does not seem to have any issues with it.
I find it easier to use leather - I have an old shoulder strap hanging on my bench overhead shelf and when I need a leather just use some scissors and cut one.
I have a leather punch on my bench so I punch a hole for the flint to make contact with the screw.
Takes only a few seconds.
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