Leaving a barrel in the white

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The first kit I built was a CVA kentucky flintlock pistol. I left the barrel in the white, but I had polished it to a mirror finish with flitz, I just oiled it and it stayed nice for the 20 plus years I had it and shot it. For some reason, I thought it looked so much better in the white with the highly polished brass. I did coat the brass with clear lacquer.
 
So if you leave a barrel in the white do you do anything to protect it or just oil it and clean it?

I think some folks might apply some car wax or polish on it especially if it has a mirror finish.
EEZOX is another special anti-rust product that can protect it against moisture, corrosion and fingerprints.
 
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The first kit I built was a CVA kentucky flintlock pistol. I left the barrel in the white, but I had polished it to a mirror finish with flitz, I just oiled it and it stayed nice for the 20 plus years I had it and shot it. For some reason, I thought it looked so much better in the white with the highly polished brass. I did coat the brass with clear lacquer.
That’s what I’m working on is a traditions Kentucky pistol
 
Looks like I will take on another build. I built a 50 cal back in 73 and never was happy with it. The fire arm ended up with my brother who killed many deer with it. Now that we both are considerably older he went to an inline with scope. Age and eyesight has a way to to that to you. To make a long story short he;s bring the gun home to me.It's a dough-less barrel and from just looking at it it;s till good. I'll pull the plug and ck it out to make sure. If this works out It'll end up about a 36 1/2 in barrel which will be plenty long enough.Flint lock for sure. A Chambers deluxe. At my age this will probably be my last one so I plan on putting quite a bit of time on it. German silver and very good wood. I've got plenty of time now since I've had major back surgery. The biggest problem is deciding on what to do with 2-3 of the other guns I'v built. I've got a couple of weeks to figure things out since it's going to be that long before i'ml over my back surgery.
 
Looks like I will take on another build. I built a 50 cal back in 73 and never was happy with it. The fire arm ended up with my brother who killed many deer with it. Now that we both are considerably older he went to an inline with scope. Age and eyesight has a way to to that to you. To make a long story short he;s bring the gun home to me.It's a dough-less barrel and from just looking at it it;s till good. I'll pull the plug and ck it out to make sure. If this works out It'll end up about a 36 1/2 in barrel which will be plenty long enough.Flint lock for sure. A Chambers deluxe. At my age this will probably be my last one so I plan on putting quite a bit of time on it. German silver and very good wood. I've got plenty of time now since I've had major back surgery. The biggest problem is deciding on what to do with 2-3 of the other guns I'v built. I've got a couple of weeks to figure things out since it's going to be that long before i'ml over my back surgery.
Well I hope your surgery turns out well. My mother had 5 of them so i understand what your going through. Have fun with your build. Life is funny when your young and capable you dont have as much time for these things (Kids, Family, Work) but when you get older and have time then your body starts to limit you.
 
I think some folks might apply some car wax or polish on it especially if it has a mirror finish.
EEZOX is another special anti-rust product that can protect it against moisture, corrosion and fingerprints.


EGAD say this isn't so? :confused: 21st century synthetic rust preventatives ???

I have a bunch of barrels "in-the-white" or "armory-bright" (as some call it). Four of them looked like chromed Chevy bumpers when they arrived, as did the locks. The fifth arrived polished of rough, modern machining marks, but the lock plate was left rough and was browned on my rifle o_O.

In all of the cases, I intentionally rusted up the barrels and then hand polished them back with sweet oil and "brick dust" in the case of the muskets, and sweet oil and brick dust at first for the rifle, then with sweet oil and ashes from the fire thereafter. The musket locks too were rusted then polished with brick dust, while my rifle lock was polished to remove the rough, modern finish, then had rust removed when it appeared, with the sweet oil and ashes. The muskets are a light gray, and the rifle barrel is a bit darker, and has "stained" spots near the touch hole, and where my hand often comes into contact with the rifle. The lock has several different stain patterns. I did this, and continue this, as I think they possibly resemble how they would've looked in the 18th century..., the hunter controlling the rust with oil or grease, maybe using wood ash as a mild abrasive, while the British enlisted man spending time to actually polish his musket steel, and having access to stuff that will remove rust and stains. (Sweet oil is the cheapest Olive Oil that I can find at the store - definately not EVOO).

LD
 
So if you leave a barrel in the white do you do anything to protect it or just oil it and clean it?

I have an old CVA napoleon cannon and the barrel was in the white. It stayed good shape for 38 years and I begun to notice it was taking on oxidation. I used steel wool and 3m pads to get it back in shape. I am going to try the spray gun blue on it, as it is seldom used these days. Any better ideas, I am open for suggestions.
 
If you polish them way up, like to 1200 grit or even finer, the barrel will resist oxidizing better than if you stop at a more coarse grit. Fewer places for water to collect and rust to get started. On this recent build, I went with a grayed look, by just putting cold blue on it and knocking it back, That said, I DO have to be extra mindful of rust getting started every time I clean it. If I'd have gone with a more conventional finish (browning, blackening) I wouldn't have the same worry.
 
I have a few rifles when built it was requested that the locks and barrels were left in the white, With proper cleaning and as Dave stated the use of sweet oil used sparingly during cleaning they have taken on a very nice patina that definitely adds to the character of the weapon. 2 of the guns are going on 40 years old and show no problems. I would never use a wax on the metal, only a light coat of the sweet oil usually applied to a soft 100% cotton or washed linen cloth and used to wipe the metal and stock down, this cloth which is only used for this purpose, kind of like a tack cloth. The cloth is only about 8 in. square and easy to transport as well as a small corked bottle of the oil. Each weapon has its self contained cleaning kit which fits neatly in the guns shooting bag, these kits contain all tools necessary to efficiently clean the weapon, or address any problems encountered such as dry ball etc.. in the field as well as a small pair of hand made pliers. This set up has served me well over the years.
 

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