That's right at the temperature where my Lee molds work the best.
I only have a Lee 420 pro pot and a Lyman therometer. With how much I shoot I need a PID.That's right at the temperature where my Lee molds work the best.
You have a good point.I've never seen the need for a PID. A few degrees temperature drift won't make any difference for the type of shooting we do. The benchrest boys shooting unmentionables might notice a difference but I never have. Better to spend the money on more powder and lead to get in more practice.
That’s a great idea. It won’t take long to lap out an aluminum mold. Be careful you don’t go too farIf you have access to a drill press it's pretty easy to lap a couple of thousands out of a mold. I have lapped quite a few iron molds but never aluminum. Cast a bullet and leave it the mold cavity. With the sprue plate closed drill a pilot hole in the bullet half the depth or so, just don't drill clear through it. I have a long sheet rock screw with the head cut off that I use. The pilot hole in the bullet is a little under the screw diameter. Once the hole is drilled open up the mold and start the screw in. Put some fine grinding compound, 240 or 320 grit, on the bullet and spin it in the mold with a cordless drill. It's a cut and try job until you get the right diameter. It takes awhile since you will have to let the mold cool enough to clean it out and then cast another bullet to check the diameter. This bullet becomes the next lap if you need to go more. Lee molds are cheap, or fairly so anyway, so you don't have much to lose if you screw it up.
If that technique works for you, fine. Many of my molds are Lee, I do not count seconds but keep a regular routine for all my moves while casting. Works for me.First real post here, but I've experienced same thing with Aluminum molds, as they lose temp quickly. I would definitely run the temp of the mold higher, and try again. Technique I earned from the internet is to count the seconds after pour till the sprue glazes over. Less than 3-4 seconds, the mold is too cold, more than 8-10 it's too hot. Then just keep your casting cadence to match mold temp. I now use a PID for my BPCR bullets, and it's improved my quality and consistently dramatically. (+/- 1-2 grains for a 525g bullet) Good luck
POWDER COAT!!!/EdWell...I finally got to fire some of my casted 54 LEE REAL bullets I casted earlier this month, and they shot terrible. I got a digital caliper to measure the bullets and the mold cavity, and to my surprise their undersized my .003! I know that's with in their specs, but not right. What's the best and safest way to lap them out a few thousands of a inch? Internet has too many directions with everyone being the expert. And I should note, I should only need to enlarge the top band.
Not so as the base steers the projectile and as far as accuracy any conical benefits from using a dry Dura Felt wad over the powder as it protects the base ! /Try it EdThe guy in the Lee Menting post is opening the sprue plate too fast and pulling lead out of the base. The cut across the bottom should be slick and shiny. Not that it makes any real difference in performance.
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