Lee/Lyman Mold head to head test

[Larry Beach]

I have mostly Lee Molds that I have bought new during the past 30+ years. When I started buying them, the old timers of the time told me I was wasting my money on them because they were cheap, and the QA on them wasn't very good.
One sid "You'll never get smaller than Dinner plate 100 yard groups with it.
I have a couple Lyman blocks and they do seem better built.
Reading through the wealth of knowledge in these posts I do see the Lee Molds mentioned.
I really haven't had much issue to question them except By golly in the early 80's I got a new rifle (see the CVA Post in Flintlocks) and I couldn't hit ANYTHING!
I have never shot anything but my cast fodder through any of my rifles. I kept trying, thinking the Old guys were right but by that time I had owned the molds too long to think about returning them. I went through this until I got my 2nd rifle, a .54 cal Thompson Hawkin Kit made in the 70's. I saw it sitting in the back room of my favorite gun shop and he sold it to me for about $125.00 in about 1993 or so. I also bought another mold for it, a single hole round ball.
My first trip out I was hitting better than the CVA Flinter, thinking it was my fault shooting the flinter I finally went to a Black Powder shoot and had a couple experienced shooter try it out, they blamed the gun, which I sent back and BPI sent me a Brand new gun AND an apology letter after they tested it!!
I still have lingering questions about the Lees.
My problem is, I dont have duplicate molds to compare them (the Lymans are not BP molds).
Has anybody done a head to head between different molds? Weighing mine there is a range of .5 to 4 grain on my 400+ grain Minnies, I think it is me and using an unregulated camping stove and cheap pan.. I have also noticed other name brand molds.
You know I'm only asking all thes questions because the Knowledge base here is so infinite!
Thanks,
Larry
PS: Do you shoot round balls with the sprue loaded Powder end down or target end up? I have always loaded with the sprue toward the powder.

 

[bubba.50]

I use Lee moulds almost exclusively because they work best for me. never have had a problem with one except for the time my brother borrowed them & let all the sprue-plates rust up then galled the tops of a couple of them.

most(myself included) load with the sprue-cut up so ya can see that it's properly centered so as not to make yer load off-center & possibly make it off-balance.

 

[mooman76]

There are allot of Lee bashers out there just like the CVA bashers. Yes they are made cheaper and the prim and polish isn't as good but the end result is a good product. I have allot of Lee mould and other products and have had very little problems with any of it. I also have RCBS, Lyman and other moulds. My guns shoot better than I can even with RBs and bullets from Lee moulds. The other companies have their share a problems too. I here lots of complaints these days from people buying Lyman moulds and they would rather have an old mould as opposed to the new production.

 

[Larry Beach]

I know in all the years of shooting I have never asked the opinion, my reasoning on putting the sprue down was when starting it up, it would deform it with my short starter with the sprue being flat and the Ball starter round, I figured that would make more difference as I could pretty much guarantee it to be stay properly centered on the bottom.
See that's what I get for thinking again :surrender: ..
Larry

 

[jfaldo]

I own a lot of moulds. Most are steel and a few are aluminum. There's nothing wrong with the fit or finish on a Lee mould. Only problem I have with them is it's so much easier to control the temp on a steel mould than it is with an aluminum one. I can cast a lot faster with a steel mould where the aluminum just gets way to hot when trying to go fast. I do not like to spend anymore time casting than necessary and aluminum moulds just slow me down.

 

[necchi]

Aluminum molds Vr Steel molds;
Would be a better analogy/question.

Each have their virtues and faults.
I don't think there's a "best" or "better". :idunno:
Each requires a slightly different method/approach to casting, and each can work very well if worked properly.

 

[bubba.50]

I own a lot of moulds. Most are steel and a few are aluminum. There's nothing wrong with the fit or finish on a Lee mould. Only problem I have with them is it's so much easier to control the temp on a steel mould than it is with an aluminum one. I can cast a lot faster with a steel mould where the aluminum just gets way to hot when trying to go fast. I do not like to spend anymore time casting than necessary and aluminum moulds just slow me down.

works just the opposite for me. I have a lot of trouble regulatin' temp on a steel mould. but with my aluminum Lee & T/C moulds I just turn the pot all the way up, get in my rhythm & rock & roll. first dozen or so go back in the pot & when I have enough nice shiny metal objects to do me a while I quit.

 

[larryp]

I know in all the years of shooting I have never asked the opinion, my reasoning on putting the sprue down was when starting it up, it would deform it with my short starter with the sprue being flat and the Ball starter round, I figured that would make more difference as I could pretty much guarantee it to be stay properly centered on the bottom.
See that's what I get for thinking again :surrender: ..
Larry

I'm another guy that puts the sprue down when loading and for the same reason. Works well for me and I ain't gonna change now.

 

[Kansas Jake]

I have always put the sprue up.

On the Lee vs. Lyman, I only have one Lyman mold and haven't used it in years because it is .440 and sold my 45 rifle. I ran across a couple of 45 pistols recently so may try to resurrect it. It was oiled when I put it with some stuff a bunch of years ago and forgot it. Unfortunately it now has some surface rust and I hope it will clean up. My Lees have sat too for years, but still are in good working order because no rust on the aluminum. As far as casting I have had good luck with both in the past.

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have a lot of trouble regulatin' temp on a steel mould.

That would be just the opposite problem most of us would have. A steel/iron mould holds heat better and maintains a constant temp while aluminum cools quickly and is more difficult to maintain constant temps with. I believe if you get your iron mould up to temp and use a steady rhythm in your casting process your will find the iron is just fine.

 

[MSW]

I've used both Lee and Lyman molds with good effect. while it is true that aluminum molds require a little bit more care in their use, they will last a good long time if properly looked after. so will steel- just keep the rust off of them. the rhythm is a bit different from steel to aluminum, but it's really not that big a deal, IMO.

I use a scrap of firewood split down to about one inch to whack the sprue cutter. this works well for me, but your mileage may vary.

as regards sprue up or sprue down: try some shots with each and see which works best for you, then do that. don't fall into the trap of worrying about what some guru says about bevel up or bevel down, where to put the sprue, leather or lead flint wraps, FFFg for priming powder, the incantation prior to loading and so on...

you get so worried about all that junk you don't have any time to shoot!!

we do want to shoot? no?

good luck with your casting project, and


make good smoke! :grin:

 

[Rifleman1776]

I use a scrap of firewood split down to about one inch to whack the sprue cutter.

I used to use old tomahawk handles. But now use a whacker I turned on my lathe from Osage Orange.

 

[coloradoclyde]

Aluminum molds Vr Steel molds;
Would be a better analogy/question.

Each have their virtues and faults.
I don't think there's a "best" or "better". :idunno:
Each requires a slightly different method/approach to casting, and each can work very well if worked properly.

Best answer. :thumbsup:

 

[Dewey]

Aluminum molds Vr Steel molds;
Would be a better analogy/question.

Each have their virtues and faults.
I don't think there's a "best" or "better". :idunno:
Each requires a slightly different method/approach to casting, and each can work very well if worked properly.

Best answer. :thumbsup:

Same for brass ones ???

 

[Rat Trapper]

I use a scrap of firewood split down to about one inch to whack the sprue cutter.

I used to use old tomahawk handles. But now use a whacker I turned on my lathe from Osage Orange.

An old hammer handle works to knock off the sprue for me.

 

[robinsroost]

I use a scrap of firewood split down to about one inch to whack the sprue cutter.

I used to use old tomahawk handles. But now use a whacker I turned on my lathe from Osage Orange.

I guess I went hi-tech, I use a broken claw hammer handle that is either oak or hickory. In any case, it is of the right weight to do the job. Keep yer powder dry.........Robin :wink:

 

I started with Lyman molds. For all practical purposes they were the only game in town at the time. Shortly after Lee molds became available I bought one to try it out. I wasn't impressed. Even though I never had trouble casting ball bearing looking balls with the Lyman molds, all of the balls from the Lee mold were wrinkled and many had voids. I went back to Lyman and stayed there.
In 1999, about thirty years of my life, including all my really good firearms walked out the door while I was working second shift 30 miles away.
For the most part, what wasn't stolen, I sold. This included all the molds.
When I got back into the game a few years ago I decided to give Lee molds another try. I consider the ones I have now to be a vast improvement over the one I had decades ago. I would not hesitate to recommend them. I have bought a few old used oddball sized Lyman molds that are unavailable from Lee (or anyone else)but if anyone's opinion of Lee molds is based on the products of the early eighties, they need to give them another try.

 

[jamesthomas]

I know in all the years of shooting I have never asked the opinion, my reasoning on putting the sprue down was when starting it up, it would deform it with my short starter with the sprue being flat and the Ball starter round, I figured that would make more difference as I could pretty much guarantee it to be stay properly centered on the bottom.
See that's what I get for thinking again :surrender: ..
Larry

I load sprue up my short starter has a concave end and flattens the sprue even with the rest of the ball. I shoot 2" or less at 50 yards with my .50 cal. doing it this way.

 

[mooman76]

I used a small plastic hammer to knock the sprue. An ol'timer taught me that. Works good and if the mould needs a light rap, it works well for that too and won't damage the mould. I never rap the mould itself, just the handle joint. I've never really tried brass moulds before but hear they are about the best.

 

[coloradoclyde]

PS: Do you shoot round balls with the sprue loaded Powder end down or target end up? I have always loaded with the sprue toward the powder.

Sprue up so my ball starter smashes it....Tests have been done on modern cartridge bullets showing that a deformed bullet nose has minimal impact on accuracy yet bullet base deformation can have a big impact..... food for thought....


Also.....if you are going to compare lee molds to lyman you need very specific judging criteria...