Lee Minie Ball Molds

[brassell31]

My sons and I have been using CVA Powerbelt bullets for the past 4-5 years for hunting because we like the speed with which we can reload a fouled barrel.They also perform pretty good on elk and mule deer. Other conicals we have used are too hard to push down a fouled barrel quickly for a follow up shot, if required. However, Powerbelts have started to get too expensive with all the platinum and copper jackets, ballistic tips, etc. I saw that Lee makes Minie Ball molds for about the same price as a package of Powerbelts. As I'm already set up for casting, this seems like a no brainer. Has anyone here used these molds? Do they require pure lead for the skirts to expand? Any insights or experience anyone has to relate would be greatly appreciated. And yes, you roundball users, I use roundballs in the flinter, I just like using conicals in our caplocks on heavier game like elk.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Normally, Hollow based bullets are designed to be used with soft lead, not harder alloys. It really is going to depend on the thickness of the " skirt " whether it can stand to be made of harder alloys. The thicker the skirt is, the less likely it or part of it, will break off. You want pure lead so that the skirt easily expands into the grooves your barrel.

There are other conicals that have flat bases. Why not look for a flat base bullet of a similar weight to the Power points you have been shooting? There are stepped bullets, where the bottom or base band is the same diameter as your bore diameter, and the top band is the " Driving Band", where you need a sharp smack on your short starter to seat the bullet in the barrel, because you are scoring the band with the lands. The band is groove diameter. This centers the bullets, and gives improved, consistent accuracy.

Just a thought for you to consider, since you are only selecting a mold, and not getting into casting for the first time. If you have never cast a hollow point, or hollow base bullet before, it does take a bit of practice to get it right. Why bother if its not necessary?

 

[CARBABY]

I have used a Lee Minie Ball for hunting muleys for years. 58 cal in various reproduction and original Springfield type muskets. Leaves a nasty hole upon contact. Gives one real respect for those poor guys that fought the Civil War. The Minie is of the LEE Modern Minie Ball Molds series .578 caliber if I remember right. Crisco is stuffed in the hollow base prior to loading. Mix Crisco with bee wax if you want it stiffer. I have had no problems with casting and using the mold. I cast over an old Coleman gas stove with a Lyman melting pot and lead Dipper for pouring. I use pure lead (no wheel weight stuff). If you can mark the lead (scratch it) with your finger nail, the lead is soft enough to use and expand the sides of the minie to rifling contact when fired. If you are using another Caliber other than the .58, (say .45 or 50 cal.) check out the Lee R.E.A.L. (Rifling Engraved At Loading) Molds. Good Luck and straight shooting!

 

[Idaho Ron]

What cal are you shooting? I made some in a 45 cal. I paper patched them and they shot very well. Ron

 

[rebel727]

I've got a Lee improved minie mold. It's an ugly sucker with a big flat meplat. Accurate as all get out and loads easy without sizing. I make mine out of stick on wheel weights with lube in the grooves(beeswax/crisco). I have no problem with fouling making them hard to load. I also have a Lyman traditional minie I personally like better but truth is the Lees are just as accurate.

 

[Bearbait2]

Mr. brassell31,
We use the Lee Improved Minni with excellent results and no problem with loading from fouling. We do not fill the base with lube. We do lube the grease grooves. Have noticed those cast from WW, handle larger powder charges of 90 to 100gr of 2F without blowing the skirt. However, these usually require a smack from a short starter to get started down the bore when loading. Softer lead allows the use of smaller charges, while maintaining accuracy in our rifles. Also eliminates the need for a short starter.
Best Wishes

 

[mazo kid]

The hollow base molds are a bit different to cast with. You may have to increase the temp a bit, making sure to keep the hollow base part hot; it will cool faster than the mold itself.

 

[brassell31]

Thanks for the info, guys. I used maxiballs for over twenty years to hunt with before I tried Powerbelts. Maxis are like the type of bullet PaulV. recommended above. The front band was the driving band, and they were very accurate and really thumped game animals. However, they were hard to reload in a fouled barrel, especially the closer it got to the breech while being seated. One of the boys even broke his hickory ramrod(we now use fiberglass). This is in .54 TC Renegades and Hawkens, using + or - 105 grs. of either Pyrodex RS or Goex 2f. In retrospect, it may have had something to do with the bullet lube being used.I used the brown goo that came in a tube that TC sold back then when I bought my first muzzleloader, then the wonderlube looking yellow stuff when that came out. Anything else you guys use besides crisco and beeswax?

 

[paulvallandigham]

Have you ever actually timed yourself on how long it takes to reload a barrel? Have you ever done it after shooting at a deer, and either missing, or having other deer that were with the deer hit still mill around?

This has happened to me only once in all my life of hunting. The deer left milling around were yearlings, who were confused about what had happened and why their mother was staggering down the side of the ravine.

My point to you is that you have the time, and Should clean between shots. A " Fast reload " with any MLer is just a pipe dream, and a totally useless skill to practice for most shooters.

When You decided to shoot a single shot, muzzle loading firearm, you have decided to handicap yourself to making every shot count.

That is the name of the game: One shot, one kill.

So, clean the barrel properly between shots. Use premeasured powder charges if you want to limit the gear you drag into the woods. But don't confuse this with anything near a " Fast Reload". If any conical you use is worth the extra effort involved in casting it, it should prove difficult to seat in a dirty barrel.

Frankly, If I were going to shoot conicals for hunting, and wanted a fast reload, I would be using a PRB instead of a conical, and just learn where that RB will hit compared to the conical or minie ball. Even with a PRB, you can't really reload the gun faster, and SAFELY, in less than 15 seconds.

Just how many deer, elk, bear, etc. have you ever seen stay around that long after a shot has been fired toward them? :hmm: :hatsoff:

 

[CARBABY]

Brassell31. You mentioned that you were using a fiberglass ramrod. I used to think they were great until one of the greybeards at the shooting range, demonstrated the wear a fiberglass rod inflicts. Try this~ Get yourself a piece of steel. Any piece should do. What you are trying to emulate is the same type of steel your barrel is made of. (But do not do this on your barrel). Draw the fiberglass ram rod across the steel (like a bow On a fiddle). Notice the result the harder you press the ramrod against the steel. If it (fiber-glass rod) is cutting the steel??? ”¦Think bore ”¦. Enough said???

 

[paulvallandigham]

Skip the synthetic materials. Use real Wood- hickory makes the best rods because the grain is straight- hence no run-out to weaken the stick-- for carrying in the gun. Buy a good range rod, with muzzle protector, made of Stainless steel, brass, or Aircraft aluminum. Use these rods to load at the range, as they will stay clean easier than the hickory, will not break, and offer a good rod in the event you have to pull a ball. Brass Rods come in solid brass, or brass tube, which is a bit lighter.

My personal preference is for the Stainless Steel rod. They are available from suppliers.