Lee Moulds???

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redwing

58 Cal.
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What about the Lee RB Moulds? I have never used them. They are however very cheap, and would like to mould some .62 RBs. What Dia does the .600 mould throw? Is it close to the right size? Is hard to keep the Alumn block hot while casting? Like to hear "The Good the Bad and the Ugly" on this product.

:redthumb:
Redwing
 
I use a Lyman mould, however I have used Lee moulds and am happy with them. Unlike Lyman they do not leave a promonet sprue. Aluminum is not as rugged as Iron molds, but thet do not rust and with reasonable care will last a very long time. Oh' by the way a .62 (.600) ball is around 325 grains.
 
I have a .62 Lee mould .600. Ball dia comes out around .602 wich seems to be just fine ball weight varies, do to the lead 323 to 325 gr
 
The Lee mould is aluminium as you already know---it will heat faster than the Lyman mould and of course will also cool faster---the only other thing is to use some "grease" or bullet lube on the insides of the mould to prevent galling (correct word?) i.e. the mould faces oxidizing together and sticking. Other than that I use whatever is available whem I need a new mould---advantage---they come with handles. :m2c:
 
I've used both cast iron and Lee aluminums for years. Ditto for what everyone else says.

I just bought a Lee .562 double mold for my .58. I was using some a friend had cast up from a Lyman single mold. I noticed the Lee .562s were a little tighter but that could have happened if I had been using a cast iron mold - If I could have found one in that caliber.
 
I have both Lee and Lyman molds...see no difference in output between them, and would probably buy Lee in preference to Lyman if I buy any more (bought the Lymans first)...agree with everything said here about the differences,wear, et c. but don't think the differences are important enough to justifly the difference in cost to me. Hank
 
The diameter of the balls will vary with the pureness of the lead. The most common purposeful additives are tin and antimony to improve the hardness. Once these git in your alloy its almost impossible to git them back out. I wouldn't advise anything but pure lead for conicals that are a bit larger than bore diameter, but patched round balls made from wheel weights may work for you. :m2c:
 
I have a Lee mold in 54 cal R.E.A.L type. I also have a 50 cal round ball mold. You have to use care when using them. You can damage them very easily. If you plan on doing alot of molding you may want to go to a more durable brand. Steve
 
Been using LEE molds primarily for 25+ years now. Round balls, Minie, pistol bullets....no problems at all. They are a lot are durable than people might think. Just use normal care and don't beat the crap out of them. The only mold of mine that is not a LEE is on of those Dixie hair straighting iron thingies. I needed a .660 roundball and LEE didn't make a mold for that.
Jack
 
Gotta vote the other way.
All steel molds for me over the aluminum. Not a lot of difference,,, but enougth. The heavier steel blocks change temps. slower and effectivly makes the working speed less critical acting. The added weight when one smacks the cut-off plate is nice over a day's ballin'.
Admittedly, the diff. isn't all that much,,, but after a day's balling, 2,000 3/4" good balls it's VERY noticable towards the end.
 
I have used Lee, Lyman, and RCBS for years no problems here... just remember to take care of'em
Best to yea Loyalist Dawg:hatsoff:
 
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