Lehman Butt plate

[ehepp]

First off I would like to thank everyone on this forum for all of the knowledge that is so freely shared here! :hatsoff: You gave me the courage to attempt my first rifle build. So with some Christmas $ burning a hole in my pocket I ordered a Lehman parts set from TOTW :grin:

Now three months into my project I have come to the part that intimidates me :surrender: The Butt plate, butt I can't avoid it any longer :rotf:

I am most concerned with getting the initial cut right and keeping things lined up as I inlet. What advise do you have? Also what methods work the best. It seems like there is little room for error on my pre-shaped stock. . . . . :shocked2:

Thanks again!
Norge

 

[paulvallandigham]

First determine the Length of pull you want on the stock. That is the distance from the center of the forward trigger to the middle of the buttplate when its installed. Next, determine the pitch you want on the stock so that the sights come to your eye easily when you mount the gun to your shoulder. Since the Pre-cut stock is already " adjusted for the comb height," all you can change are the LOP and Pitch angles. Mark the stock, line up the buttplate, after sanding, filing, and polishing it to its final form, mark the stock for the wood cuts and check it 2 or three times before cutting. YOu have to fit both the top of the plate along with the vertical portion of the buttplate at the same time. Use lipstick or inletting black on the back side of the buttplate, and set it in the stock to determine the high spots that need to come off. The rest is similar to what you have already learned to do in inletting the barrel, tang, and lock mortise.

 

[Dobson]

Nice job so far!!
Well what i do is to firstly check the butt plate for being the right shape etc (many arnt) make sure what is supposed to be square is square that the rails that contact the wood on the top section (not the back curve) are paralell and square to the front face. Make sure the curve (on the rear / shoulder) plate is the same both sides. Then when you are confident the plate is as good as it can be then mark where you want the thing to be and do the cut. After that its just try and file, try and file using the soot of a candle. This process is slooow but you will get a perfect fit if you go slow. be carefull when drilling the screw holes cos you could make the top screw pull the plate off the wood so now there is a gap. As a last resort gap filling can be done with some stained epoxy. Not PC. But does work. Please dont shout at me. :surrender:
Regards
Dobson

 

[Only Round]

I agree exactly with what's already been said: go S L O W. Try and file, try and file, over and over and over just taking off the high spots. One thing to add, when it's time to put in your screws, mark the location of the top screw hole and then actually drill your hole about 1/16"-1/32" forward of the marked location. This way, when you screw it down it will actually pull the plate forward just a bit, this will keep any gap from developing.