lemon oil with bees wax question

[Ridge]

I recently bought a bottle of "Old Craftsmen's Brand Lemon Oil with Bees Wax".

I've been rubbing it into my musket for 3 days now. I've also used it to wipe down my powder horns.

I've never seen anything like it. It gives a horn an incredible shine. Makes my musket look "wet".

I've use lemon oil in the past.......this stuff is infinately better than standard lemon oil.

I'm sold on it......anyone else ever try it?

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I use Howard's Feed-N-Wax (which is orange oil & beeswax) for many different applications, works great.
[url] http://www.howardproducts.com/feednwax.htm[/url]

 

[Roy]

I use the same stuff. :thumbsup:

 

[Bob J]

I use Howard's Feed-N-Wax (which is orange oil & beeswax) for many different applications, works great.
[url] http://www.howardproducts.com/feednwax.htm[/url]

Would you recommend this for maple and walnut stocks?

 

[Russianblood]

I use Howard's Feed-n-Wax on my walnut stocked trade gun and most of my military rifles. Great stuff!

 

[anvil1231]

I sometimes use Formby's lemon oil treatment and then rub beeswax on some of my hawk handles. Gives a nice satin shine. anvil

 

[TANSTAAFL]

I use the Howard's Fed-N-Wax with 1:1 beeswax added for stock work. I heat just enough to get a thick mixture once it cools.

The mix goes on easily, once the light ends evaporate off, I burnish (rub very hard) with rough wool blanket pads. Takes several applications, but IMHO, makes for a great stock finish.

I also use the Howard's Feed-N-Wax straight for powder horns, leather and wood, bone or antler knife hafts and over the entire gun, metal parts, wood and etc. Makes do for a good patch lube also.

Before he went out of business, Ray's Beaver Bag ML supplies in Las Vegas used to carry it in large jugs.

I currently buy it in the 16 ounce bottles at Home Depot.

 

[wbyman]

Will this stuff work as a new stock finish ?

 

[Erzulis boat]

I make quite a bit of furniture, and have been using "Briwax" as a base wax finish.

Howards is used for maintainance purposes still however.

I live on the ocean, and the front door is made from teak and pernambuco. Howards wax will not protect it for any longer than about 2 days, but Briwax needs only periodic applications to protect perfectly.

Briwax is made in England, and contains carnuba and beeswax. After 2 or 3 applications it is on par with automotive wax in "hardness" and durability.

It can be purchased in a multitude of colors/shades, and clear of course. It will not leave the white chalky residue in porous woods as Birchwood Casey gunstock wax will either.

It is actually "designed" to be used as finish by itself for indoor applications.

Briwax gets better with age.

It will also even out steel wool marks that are left after you knock back a shine.

It works on metal like a champ, you can get a freshly browned barrel to have a low protective sheen that will not fingermark in a jiffy. TOTW bore cleaner will not attack it either.

It's the[url] stuff...In[/url] my opinion.


Word of warning...If you stain the wood with LMF etc. seal the stain with LMF sealer (2 light applications is enough) because Briwax has an alchohol vehicle, your rag might get the stain color on it at first. If you seal it, it will not pull any pigment/dye.