Let's chat about files

[Artificer]

Gus,

Thanks. That's good information.

Now.....is there a difference between a "metal" file and a "machinist" file(s)?

Machinists and other trades that work primarily in metal, work with files made for cutting metal. The use of the term "machinist's file" normally just means it is one of many kinds of files for cutting metal, as opposed to a file for cutting wood or softer materials.

When working on guns; you wind up needing metal files and wood rasps and wood files, so you can work on steel, iron, brass and wood.

You are most welcome.

Gus

 

[Davemuzz]

Well Gent's, all I can say is "new files are a wonderful thing!"

I ordered the less expensive Nicholson files as I figured I'm only going to do this rifle so a "high end" investment was probably not necessary. Allows the dollars to get other "stuff."

I purchased these files:

8”””08559N Mill Smooth cut
8”””06601N Double\Single cut
10”””21858N Half round *******
6”””b001r1qcw6 Handy File single\double

Maybe not the most well rounded, OTOH I do have other files that will complement these.

What I'm most impressed with is these files, when I use a "non-force" stroke, take off metal and shape it rather quickly!!

Thanks for all your help!! :hatsoff:

 

[ZUG]

Make sure you get a "file card" to clean your files and do it often :thumbsup:. One bit of smart advice is to use one file for brass and one for steel and don't mix them. For some reason using a file on brass then using it on steel the file will not cut as good when filing the steel :idunno: . The file will "feel" dull. :v

 

[Davemuzz]

Thanks Zug. I already own one and use it often. I also began to chalk the files prior to using and after carding. The filings come out very easy!!

 

[Davemuzz]

Just to update an older post.......I was working on slimming down the sides of my stock, and noticed that for the rough cutting of a lot of wood, the ******* file seem to take longer. Also, the Nicholson "handy file" was not cutting as it once was.

A careful inspection of both revealed the teeth (correct terminology?) on both files had been worn down significantly. So.....I just went thru two Nicholson files and the rifle isn't anywhere near completion!!

Anyway, I've just ordered two Simonds files to replace the Nicholson's. I read that the Simonds are suppose to be better. :idunno:

 

[Black Hand]

Use a small plane. I use files primarily on metal or on wood/metal junctions (e.g. Butt to butt-plate) where the plane won't go

 

[Davemuzz]

Me 'n planes don't seem to get along all that well. For heavy wood removal I use a rasp. I seem to be able to control the cut 'n shape with a rasp.....then I use the ******* file followed by a double cut 8".

 

[nhmoose]

Sorry post to Davemuzz

Don't throw out your worn ones. This place will sharpen them like new.
http://boggstool.com/page5.html

 

[Davemuzz]

Thanks for the link.

I know I read on another post about a company that re-sharpened files. My only concern with these Nicholson files is that they wore out (IMHO) rather quickly the first time. My guess is the metal is softer than a higher priced or "more better" file.

So, I'm not sure if it's a good idea to toss money at these files.....or wait until the better files I just purchased wear out.

 

[nhmoose]

At $2 bucks to sharpen I would give it a try on 2-3 what's to lose?

I am sending a couple dozen to get re-sharpened it is worth the try with the price of files today.

 

[Davemuzz]

Yeah....good point. I have several others that need sharpened....and those have lasted a long time before they wore down. I'll ship 'em all....good and maybe not so good.

 

[Davemuzz]

That's probably right. OTOH.....with the rasp it's done without "chunking out" to much wood. With my plane......well.....

And hey....I'm retired. Time I got!! :grin:

 

[Artificer]

I have been using 8 inch "Handy Files" since my apprenticeship in 1973 and they are probably the files I use more often than any other in my somewhat large collection of metal working files. I don't know for sure, but maybe Stanley was the first one to make these files and then other file making companies copied them? I have used ones made by Stanley, Nicholsen and Simonds and can't say I have found much difference in any of them.

I don't remember where I learned this, but I took the tip that with new Handy Files, I use them ONLY on softer materials or metal till they dull for that use, then use them on harder materials. IOW, I buy a new one just use on wood/plastic. When it dulls, I use it on aluminum then brass. When it dulls for that, I use it on steel. (However, there have been a few times I needed a sharp file for precision work on steel, so went with a new one just for that job.) What you don't want to do is file a lot on steel with a Handy File and then expect it to be sharp for brass or especially wood.

I make sheaths for my Handy Files out of cardboard wrapped around them and masking tape wrapped around the cardboard. Then using a Magic Marker, I mark those sheaths "Wood," "Aluminum," "Brass" and "Steel." As they dull for each use, I just move them to the next sheath.

Gus

 

[Pete G]

Two files I have added to my collection are a Vixon file for fast wood removal and a lathe file for draw filing. Now I can't imagine a shop without these.

 

[Davemuzz]

Well.....I'm not as up to snuff on terminology as I should be. What I called a "rasp" is in actually a Vixon File.

The pic below shows what I use to call "rasp".....now will call Vixon, along with the two new Simonds files.

Left: Center Vixon....I didn't know that. This Center file has relief groves cut in the cross-hatch's. I can only assume that is to assist cleaning the wood out.

Middle, Simonds half round 10" *******

Right, Simonds all purpose.

BTW.....this am prior to my new Simonds files arriving, I got the courage to use a plane on the one side of the forestock. It worked very well.......except for one deep gouge that came out on the finish filing. The gouge was my concern when using a plane. My left arm is not as strong as my right. Controlling the plane can be more difficult. FWIW

 

[Black Hand]

I got the courage to use a plane on the one side of the forestock. It worked very well.......except for one deep gouge that came out on the finish filing. The gouge was my concern when using a plane.

Set your plane for a finer cut and pay attention to the grain direction. If it starts to grab - stop and go at it from a different direction/angle. A skewing cut sometimes works better than a straight cut. Maple, especially figured maple, has lots going on with grain direction.