Lightening up single trigger pull poundage?

[Gustavo Hoefs]

I think you should seriously consider what Zonie says about location the trigger pivot pin in relation to the sear. Observe and ask your self is the trigger pushing up or forward against the sear? Forward makes it more difficult than upward.

 

[Tinker2]

. I am just asking if there's another way rather than having to modifying the locks internal's?

Yes.


I might try some Molybdenum Disulfide (MoS2) or Tungsten Disulfide (WS2)

Tungsten Disulfide (WS2) is one of the most lubricous materials known to science. With Coefficient of Friction at 0.03, it offers excellent dry lubricity unmatched to any other substance.


An easy way to improve the trigger pull


William

 

[M. De Land]

Where does one purchase these dry lubes? Are either toxic to handle?

 

[Col. Batguano]

Amazon has Molybdenum Disulfide. About $10 for a 1 oz jar. That stuff would do wonders for your Pinewood Derby car wheels too.

 

[Tinker2]

I got what I use from Brownells in the 70’s

What I use is a dry powder, no oil, grease or anything else in it.
Not toxic, not a rust prevention. Works”¦.slick. :wink:




William Alexander

 

[Some_Mook]

An old thread, and there are a lot of threads regarding improvements to trigger functionality but I enjoyed reading through this one. @Artificer is a great asset to this forum.

Just to add my two-cents, one of my mentionable "period" long guns is a Pedersoli 2-band Enfield. The trigger pull was in excess of 10 1/4 lbs and the break was not crisp. I simply removed the sear and polished the contact point for the sear spring until rubbing the contact point of the sear spring along the contact area of the sear with the two pieces held in my fingers no longer felt gritty. I also polished the trigger bar on the sear. Upon reassembly, the trigger pull measures 9 1/4 lbs and has a much crisper break - I don't feel the urge to 'haul off' on the trigger to get over the wall.

While 9 lbs + is still fairly heavy, I am satisfied with the result and I did not try to re-engineer the leverage point of the trigger or modify the full cock notch on the tumbler. I am sure that the trigger could be finessed and refined further, but for anyone searching for a method to improve their trigger feel without getting heavily into the physics, or potentially 'over-correcting' an issue that would require gunsmithing / parts replacement to repair the 'fix', I would suggest simply starting with a polishing of the sear's spring and trigger bar contact points first and see if something this simple will suffice for your needs.

As has been said many times, in many places, one should not mess around with a main spring without the proper tool for the job. Properly fitted turn screws are also a great asset.

 

[waksupi]

If the trigger pivots from the trigger plate, you will never get a good trigger pull. They need to be separate from the trigger plate, and pinned higher at the highest point on the front of the trigger as possible. Lots of suggestions here that would FUBAR your lock.

 

[user 34300]

Another thing to look at is the sear spring and where it bears on the the sear. I see lots of locks where it is unnecessarily far form the pivot point. That increases the mechanical advantage and reduces smoothness. Be sure the sear spring is not too strong. You do not want it floppy either. The lock should make crisp audible clicks as you pass the notches. I make a new sear spring for most locks.

You want significant depth of engagement. I would not go below about 0.030". IF the parts are smooth then it will feel good. Smooth is 2000 grit and beyond. Filing down the full cock notch is a mistake.

The hammer should not cam back much as the trigger is pulled. If it is camming back a lot then and only then do I mess with the angle. This is not work to be done free hand and by eye. I set up a jig.

The sear nose needs to have full contact with the full cock notch. A knife edge is wrong. Use cold blue or marker and make it so. Use a jig to maintain the correct angle in both axis.

Finally, as mentioned you can change the trigger pivot location to give more mechanical advantage. That will increase the trigger travel length by necessity. It it also important to have the hinge pin in the line between the sear screws and the sear bar.

If a shooter does not have the tools or knowledge to do it right walk away. No Dremel tools! : )