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linen possible bags
- Thread starter cdm101
- Start date
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I have made many of them out of heavy linen, lined with either light linen or ticking. Generally but not always I will use a leather flap. I waterproof the linen by melting in a mix of beeswax and tallow with an iron, then blotting off the excess by using paper bag material laid onto the bag and running the iron over that. They are lightweight, authentic, attractive, and can be embroidered if you want.
I tend to use leather for my "shooting bag", and because it contains a few inside pockets I prefer it to be somewhat stiff. For me, a cloth shooting bag would not hold it's shape and would make accessing the inside pockets more difficult.
I use cloth for my possibles bag or "haversack". It has one large compartment and holds my fire starting kit, food, sewing kit, etc. It doesn't need to be as stiff.
To me, a shooting bag and possibles bag (haversack) are two different things, although the definitions are used interchangeably by many people.
I use cloth for my possibles bag or "haversack". It has one large compartment and holds my fire starting kit, food, sewing kit, etc. It doesn't need to be as stiff.
To me, a shooting bag and possibles bag (haversack) are two different things, although the definitions are used interchangeably by many people.
Many Klatch
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Linen bags tend to last longer than leather. That's why there are more linen items in the museums than leather. I have a linen backpack for carrying food clothing and miscellaneous gear. My shooting pouches are all leather.
Many Klatch
Many Klatch
Sure!
First, make the bag with "rolled" edges at the front. In other words, fold the two layers of cloth comprising the lip of the front of the bag in about 3/8 inch or so and sew it to add stiffness to the lip. Soak the bag in walnut die or whatever you like to get the color you want, then let it dry.
Now, melt your beeswax. 100% is OK, but you can cut it with beef or deer tallow if you want. I don't find the proportions to be critical. I have used 50-50 and it seemed to work fine.
Lay your pouch on a grocery bag or even brown wrapping paper. Paint the mixture on. It will harden practically as soon as you paint it on, but don't worry. Really glop in on. Now, take your wife's best iron (or go buy a cheap one, your choice.). Take another sheet of paper, lay it over the pouch, and touch the hot iron to it. It will melt the wax right into the fabric, and excess will be blotted onto the paper, making true waxed paper for use in wrapping your salt pork or making paper cartridges. Repeat the process, hitting the seams of the bag which you probably missed on the first application.
Once you are happy with the results, that the wax has fully penetrated and there are no spots of exterior wax buildup, you are done. Let it cool. The final product will be stiffer that a light leather bag, impervious to water, and authentic as all get-out. It will not be brittle, as the wax has penetrated the fibers of the material and is not just a surface coating. As mentioned, I will generally use a leather flap, sewn to the back of the pouch near the top and this adds additional stiffness to the spine of the bag.
It will hold it shape just fine. It is not like a haversack which is typically made of one layer and does not hold it shape at all when loaded. It is not tacky, and does not get stiff in cold weather or slimy and sticky in hot weather. I used mine in zero weather and in summer trail shoot weather. I have mine full of the usual shooting pouch implements. It works fine.
Hope this helps.
First, make the bag with "rolled" edges at the front. In other words, fold the two layers of cloth comprising the lip of the front of the bag in about 3/8 inch or so and sew it to add stiffness to the lip. Soak the bag in walnut die or whatever you like to get the color you want, then let it dry.
Now, melt your beeswax. 100% is OK, but you can cut it with beef or deer tallow if you want. I don't find the proportions to be critical. I have used 50-50 and it seemed to work fine.
Lay your pouch on a grocery bag or even brown wrapping paper. Paint the mixture on. It will harden practically as soon as you paint it on, but don't worry. Really glop in on. Now, take your wife's best iron (or go buy a cheap one, your choice.). Take another sheet of paper, lay it over the pouch, and touch the hot iron to it. It will melt the wax right into the fabric, and excess will be blotted onto the paper, making true waxed paper for use in wrapping your salt pork or making paper cartridges. Repeat the process, hitting the seams of the bag which you probably missed on the first application.
Once you are happy with the results, that the wax has fully penetrated and there are no spots of exterior wax buildup, you are done. Let it cool. The final product will be stiffer that a light leather bag, impervious to water, and authentic as all get-out. It will not be brittle, as the wax has penetrated the fibers of the material and is not just a surface coating. As mentioned, I will generally use a leather flap, sewn to the back of the pouch near the top and this adds additional stiffness to the spine of the bag.
It will hold it shape just fine. It is not like a haversack which is typically made of one layer and does not hold it shape at all when loaded. It is not tacky, and does not get stiff in cold weather or slimy and sticky in hot weather. I used mine in zero weather and in summer trail shoot weather. I have mine full of the usual shooting pouch implements. It works fine.
Hope this helps.
Harbot Freight sells a flax canvas welder's blanket, can often get them on sale. I make my haversacks and diamond fly shelters (fire retardant) from them.
6'x6': http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41506
6'x8': http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41507
6'x6': http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41506
6'x8': http://ww2.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41507
Last edited by a moderator:
I made some decent heavy canvas double pouch bagsa while back,I think there are still some pics in the craftsman section.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/217150/
got the pattern from a member here and added the leather on the canvas flap to both stiffen and add weight to it.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/217150/
got the pattern from a member here and added the leather on the canvas flap to both stiffen and add weight to it.
Last edited by a moderator:
Dutchman58
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Good information. Thanks for sharing, guys. :bow:
