Linseed oil

[Dphar]

I recently bought a lyman great plains rifle and the stock was stained at the factory but there doesn't appear to be any kind of sealer over the stain. A friend suggested to rub linseed oil on it and that would seal it. What do you guys think?

Order some stock oil from Jim Chambers Flintocks.

The boiled linseed oil you buy at the lumberyard is paint thinner and board fence paint its not stock finish as was used historically. Its not made in the same manner (its cold processed) and does not dry fast enough.

Second choice is to mix store bought Boiled LO with Tru-Oil 50-50.

Or make your own stock finish by home cooking store bought "boiled" oil.
Dan

 

[token tory]

The boiled linseed oil you buy at the lumberyard is paint thinner

I'm actually thinking of gun stock finishing BLO, not cheap substitute rubbish. Maybe that's another reason some are having troubles as they substituted home improvment stores/lumberyard products for actual BLO stock finish? :idunno:

 

[jerrywh]

I thought it was at the CLA show in Kentucky. I remember Jach Haugh and some guy with him. but I don't know who you are . you have no identity listed here. Yup I'm in Baker, Oregon.

 

[Twice boom]

.Yes that was me with him. I was admiring your displays while you and Jack were talking. I think I mentioned that I once lived in Springfield Oregon.
Nothing to write in my personal files worth reading.:>) Just a Knife maker and a self doer ..

Twice

 

[rtdoug]

Has anyone tried the "Tried and True" brand that woodcraft carries?

They have a finish that is BLO and beeswax.

"Original Wood Finish is a highly polymerized linseed oil, combined with Beeswax. It dries to a fine finish reminiscent of the patina of well cared for antique furniture, yet it is durable and easy to use. It is commonly used on doors and windows, paneling and furniture. It may be used to revive any existing finish."

It seems quite interesting, not PC, but interesting.

Regards

 

[bioprof]

Tru-oil is 11% Linseed oil, 33% undefined oil [probably tung oil] and 56% is mineral spirits (petroleum distillates commonly used as paint thinner). This is straight from Birchwood-Casey.
http://sport.birchwoodcasey.com/files/MSDS/23035_23123_23132_23150_23189_Tru_Oil_Stock_Finish.pdf

 

[bioprof]

Watco Danish oil is 60% mineral spirits (petroleum distillates), Linseed oil, Vegetable oil, and proprietary resins.
http://watco.net/CBGResourceCenter.asp

Kind of takes the mystery out of it, doesn't it?

 

[LaBonte]

Has anyone tried the "Tried and True" brand that woodcraft carries?

They have a finish that is BLO and beeswax.

"Original Wood Finish is a highly polymerized linseed oil, combined with Beeswax. It dries to a fine finish reminiscent of the patina of well cared for antique furniture, yet it is durable and easy to use. It is commonly used on doors and windows, paneling and furniture. It may be used to revive any existing finish."

It seems quite interesting, not PC, but interesting.

Regards

I use the T & T Linseed varnish as a base for my varnish - I then add a bit more resin and white lead dryer. This makes an exact duplicate of the original linseed oil based varnishes of the era.

see her for info on original varnishes used in period....... http://www.muzzleblasts.com/archives/vol5no2/articles/mbo52-1.shtml

 

[Dude]

Here's a good explanation of the contents of varnish and what they do. They say they have a natural marine spar varnish, but I'm not so sure it's really all natural, especially since it contains mineral spirits rather than turpentine. It also explains why it's difficult finding natural varnish these days. Mind the typos, there are a few.

https://www.epoxyproducts.com/varnish.html
I get the idea that combining Tung oil, resin and Turpentine could be close to being a marine varnish.

 

[tenngun]

Linspeed sold by Track and others, is real similar to tru-oil. Tracks Original oil is real good, it’s a mix of linseed and pine tar.

 

[Old Hawkeye]

Straight BLO is a poor choice for finishing a gunstock. However, it makes a great base for a gunstock finish when properly blended & cooked with Gum Spirit, Venice Turpentine & Carnauba Wax. This blend contains no petroleum based products as do the commercially available BLO based gun finishes like un-Tru Oil or Lin-Speed. BLO needs hardeners, dryers, & fillers to become a proper gunstock finish. I won't reveal the recipe I use, but it's very similar to the "Slacom Oil" Holland & Holland used back in the day. Without the "additives" BLO gets gummy in high temps, fades & dulls over time, & is not very weather resistant. Mixing with Beeswax, which starts to melt @ 135 F, is another bad choice, unless you like that "waxy" feeling. Just my two cents.

 

[Dude]

I found this on another site - recipes for "Slacom Oil":

Boiled linseed oil – 16 oz
Spirits of turpentine – 2 oz
Carnauba wax flakes – 200 gr (that's grains, not grams)
Venice turpentine - 2 teaspoonfuls
Mix together and heat until it simmers. Not boiling, just warm enough to see a few bubbles

Here's another -

For Darkening, Filling & Polishing
All measures are in English (UK)
1/2 pint of Raw Linseed Oil
2 ozs of Plaster of Paris (Dental Quality)
1/2 fluid oz of Butter of antimony
1/2 Gill Spirits of Wine
2 teaspoons of Vinegar
1 teaspoon of Venice Turps.
You can leave out the Antimony if you don't want to darken the wood.
Leave out the Plaster if you don't need to fill the pores.
That's what is in Slacum Oil.

Spirits of wine is rectified Ethyle Alcohol.
A Gill (measure) is 1/4th of a pint or 5 fluid ounces.

The Plaster of Paris is only required as filling agent to close the pores. From a stock enhancement point of view it would not hurt to leave it out. The recipe I posted is an original from the London guntrade.Dig's recipe is also from the Trade utilising modern ingredients. Depending on who you believe and what tests you do yourself it is said Linseed oil never really dries completely if left to it's own devices. That is why we add driers / solvents to aid the drying process. Which drier you use is a matter of personal choice. Not many people use Napthalene but I have and it worked very well, most common drier is turpentine because it is readily available. In the '50's we used Lead as drier, but due to them damn yankees and Ducks Unlimited Lead is bad (only joking chaps) but of course due to the perceived toxicity of lead products it is regarded as hazardous. But the original recipes did use lots of lead family derivatives such as cobalt as driers. I think we have printed most of the recipes on this thread. All I can say is that they are the best without doubt if you want a superb in the wood lustre.

One of the posters says BLO contains chlorine from the boiling process that will harm the metal's finish, so he uses the raw linseed oil - available at health food stores as Flax oil.

And yet another poster uses patching plaster instead of dental plaster.

Venice (or Venetian) Turpentine is only turpentine. Regular Turpentine is a mix of turpentine and rosin (a type of resin).

 

[tenngun]

Gill would be four ounces at this time. A jack half if a gill
Jack and hill went up the hill to fetch a pail of water, jack fell down lost his crown( went from three ounces to two, and gill came tumbling after( went from five to four)

 

[1950DAVE]

I have always used the POOR choice for a finish and I have never had a problem with Gumming in hot weather, and I live in Alabama. I rerefinished an unmentionable walnut stocked rifle in BLO 50 yrs ago and it has yet to fade. Personally I don't like a high gloss but a satin finish on my firearms and hand rubbed oil is the ticket for that. As far as weather resistance the spot of water on this stock was maintained for several days before being allowed to dry. The after pic was hand rubbed without additional oil. Stock has not been freshened in maybe five yrs. you judge.
It works for me.
Dave

 

[Hawken]

Gill would be four ounces at this time. A jack half if a gill

I wondered about that, because of reading the L&C Journals, and the issuance of a "Gill" of Spirits to revive the men. What the hell is a "Gill"? And can a feller get snockered on a "Gill"?

Either way, I think "Yes". But ... if they used the British units of measure in those days, in the recipes, recall an Imperial gallon is larger than a US gallon. So a Gill in those days would be closer to 5 fl. oz?

 

[tenngun]

I wondered about that, because of reading the L&C Journals, and the issuance of a "Gill" of Spirits to revive the men. What the hell is a "Gill"? And can a feller get snockered on a "Gill"?

Either way, I think "Yes". But ... if they used the British units of measure in those days, in the recipes, recall an Imperial gallon is larger than a US gallon. So a Gill in those days would be closer to 5 fl. oz?

It started out as five, but Charles the first of England cut jacks back to two ounces, and a gill is two jacks, so gill became four.
Jack and Gill lost their heads.... and Charles too.
A gill was a daily ration of sprits. But given as a jack at noon and then dinner

 

[shootrj2003]

Tru oil works for me also just did a Marlin looked great now I have two BP stocks projects ,a cherry and a curly maple

 

[cvco]

To me anyway, a wood stock is no different than house furniture, so I do the same. 50% turpentine and 50% BOILED linseed oil (which is not the same as linseed oil which I dont regard as good for wood, in fact its not. It also becomes hard and very difficult to work with later). The turp thins down the boiled linseed oil so that the wood fibers can absorb it and then the turp evaporates, leaving the oil. Once a year, if that, is all you need. I learned that from an antiques restorer at Sotheby's around 1970. They should know. And stop using gun oil repeatedly on stocks, it saturates and ruins wood and then you have to heat it all out one day. Anyway, IMHO.

 

[Crow#21957]

I agree with JBTUSA
Boiled linseed oil and hand rubbed.slow but beautiful.

 

[cannonball1]

To me anyway, a wood stock is no different than house furniture, so I do the same. 50% turpentine and 50% BOILED linseed oil (which is not the same as linseed oil which I dont regard as good for wood, in fact its not. It also becomes hard and very difficult to work with later). The turp thins down the boiled linseed oil so that the wood fibers can absorb it and then the turp evaporates, leaving the oil. Once a year, if that, is all you need. I learned that from an antiques restorer at Sotheby's around 1970. They should know. And stop using gun oil repeatedly on stocks, it saturates and ruins wood and then you have to heat it all out one day. Anyway, IMHO.

An old antique gunsmith who has since passed gave this old antique formula for newly stained guns. Step 1: As above 50% boiled linseed, 50% turpentine, until stock quits soaking up the mix. Step 2: 30% boiled linseed, 40 Turpentine, and 30% beeswax until you get tired of rubbing it in. Final Step: 50% boiled linseed and 50% beeswax - as you covet and caress your gun. Don't put too much on and rub the excess off.