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LMF Browning

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Ok heres what ive got so far. Should i just leave it alone all day and tomorrow go ahead and wipe it down? I take it that the black is supposed to turn brown after it settles?
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Seems to me that there's insufficient time and humidity and the "black whatever" hasn't changed to rust. I leave bbls in the sweatbox for 12 hrs., recoat and after another 12 hrs. card w/ denim using hot water. The color is brown but not deep enough so {3}, 4 hr cycles w/ carding between coats yields a dark brown, matte finish. I don't know what LMF's instructions are, but after having done quite a few bbls, this system has worked fine w/ the winter time low humidity. By the way...every bottle of LMF has produced the same, excellent results....Fred
 
I don't think so. Card off that surface rust, using a coarse rag, or fine steel wool lightly rubbed over the metal. Then rust it some more. That black part is just discoloration from oxides, and you need to continue the rusting process to turn it brown. The black or dark colored areas MAY indicate that you use too fine a grit sand paper, or emery cloth in polishing the finish. Browning works best when you don't use any finishing grit finer than 220 grit.
 
Just used some 0000 steel wool and buffed the barrel. The black came off and under it, it was browned. It actually looks pretty good now. I'll buff the rest of the barrel and then tomorrow, when everyone is gone i'll make a sweat box with and set up the crock pot. I had been using the bathroom thats all wood and acts like a sweat room.
 
lol no, I just wanted to see how it looked in the stock. After buffing it, It had a worn 'Antique" brown look to it. Looked nice on the stock! I have it in the humid bathroom right now. Seems to be rusting nicely but i'll give it all day.
 
Allrighty! I finished the under rib and its perfect. I have the barrel in the shower and i just added the Third coat. Its coming out really nice! I have no clue what the heck was going on earlier. So far so good!
 
I think what was going on at first is that you were expecting things to happen in a few hours.
Rust takes a while to form, even with the proper heat and humidity.

IMO, folks using LMF Browning should expect to give things at least 6 hours to work. 12 or more per coating might be required if the humidity is low.
 
I had mine take a very long time, too. Did it during a record autumn drought, so every bit of humidity, I had to provide.

My setup was a big, Tupperware-like plastic box from Wal-Mart, with about a third of an inch of water in the bottom.

First, I'd put four flat rocks in the box, making sure that they would be big enough to stick up out of the water, once I poured that in. (For convenience's sake, I didn't put the water in until after I had the barrel in place.) I then took two thin sticks, and laid one between each pair of rocks. I then laid the barrel on the sticks, upside down, so that the dovetails from the front and rear sights rested on the sticks. That kept the barrel up off the bottom of the plastic box, and any discoloration would happen where the sights would cover it after they were installed.

I then put another rock or two in the box, and used those to support the tang and underbarrel rib.

I then gently poured a lot of warm water into the box, until I had about a third of an inch in there. Snapped the cover on, and firmly admonished the kids not to kick the box and knock the barrel into the water.

Like you, I had a lot of occasions where I'd get an uneven blued-and-rusted look--but eventually that gave way to a nice chocolate color.

I found that carding with a paper garbage bag scrap worked pretty well--it's a fairly rough paper, and did a good job on removing the rusty scale.

Toward the end, I used an old toothbrush and some baking-soda toothpaste for a semi-final scrub. That let me get into the nooks and crannies, and also helped deactivate the browning compound. Oh--for what it's worth, I'd expect the rusting / browning process might go on for a while even after you scrub it down pretty well with baking soda the first time or two. I had to do maybe three applications of baking soda solution to really finally kill off the browning / rusting process. When it stays smooth for a couple of days in a row after your last carding, you know you've stabilized it. Then you can apply oil, or whatever. Mine, I made a hook out of a coat hanger, ran that through the underbarrel lug, then put the whole thing into the oven on top of some aluminum foil, heated it to maybe 130 degrees, then hung it outside and applied a thin coat of pure tung oil. A couple of goes with that and it looks kind of like it's made out of dark chocolate. Nice, even, and smooth.
 
Have used LMF for years and found that household ammonia "kills" the rusting and never allows after rust. Did a bbl last week and "painted" the ammonia on w/ a paint brush for 2-3 mins. and there's no evidence of after rust. Smaller parts are submerged for 2-3 mins., drained and rinsed w/ hot water...same as the bbl. The excess ammonia is poured back in the bottle for another time.....Fred
 
Just have to be patient i guess. I did the buttplate and i added #2 coat which almost instantly turned to rust in a couple minutes. Now i just have to get all the other parts off and do them. Slow process but very much worth it.
 
My first one took me several times of browning and carding and redoing the hole thing, but its fun no mater what and the learning process is great, the finished product... priceless, as you did it yourself.
 
I like LMF browning. My last couple of barrels were slow, looked like yours. I use a plywood box, 12 x 12" and 60" tall with a 75 watt bulb at bottom and top, about 90 - 100 degrees. Use wet sponges in a tray over the bottom bulb. Prop the barrel up in the box and hang lock parts, etc., from wires. Too much humidity and there will be drops of water on the metal, not good. Takes me about 10 coats to get a good brown, following the directions. Just keep putting on coats and the color will develop. I neutralize with baking soda-water mix and then heat the barrel and lock parts with a torch until beeswax melts on them and wipe it off. I also use this box as a drying cabinet for stocks, without the humidity, of course, which is why it is so tall.
 
Just an update. I have just a few more parts to brown before i am finished. Then a lot of BLSO rubbing to do on the stock. Sorry for the dark pics, This Kodak POS is about to go flying through a door.
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Gun is looking good. Speaking as a photo pro, there's probably not a thing wrong with the camera. That white wall is causing it to shut down a bit to prevent overexposure, darkening the rifle right along with it.

Try photographing the rifle against a darker wall closer in tone to the rifle and the rifle won't be underexposed. The camera is just trying to be smart, but it's outsmarting itself.
 
Had to turn on all the lights in the living room for the pics to come out right.
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This one i took before turning on another lamp. Takes great pics as long as you are outside. What you pay is what you get i guess :grin:
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Zonie said:
Rust takes a while to form,

Man, I wish I lived someplace like that - I've watched guns rusting just while in a deer stand! :surrender:
 

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