LMF Stain & True Oil

[Onojutta]

The tung oil has held up real well on my example above. I have a Winchester 94 finished with BLO and that has held up well too. They both take forever to dry. Maybe yours wasn't dry when you took it in the rain?

 

[Vaino]

Started drying it in June by putting it out in the sun and thought it was set...but, it didn't happen.

Don't think the original makers used BLO....they had to support a family by making money and the slow, if ever drying at all of BLO isn't conducive to that. Modern owners of MLers might like to rub and fondle their guns over a long period of time, but the "old time" gunsmiths couldn't afford to do that....and most of the full time builders of today can't afford it either.

I learned my lesson and prefer not to "fiddle" w/ BLO which doesn't protect a stock all that well.

Linseed oil mixed w. dryers and other ingredients does a good job, but BLO by itself is a lousy stock finish not only because it doesn't protect the wood, but it also takes a looooong time to dry....if it ever does.........Fred

 

[Micah Clark]

Wow . .humorous story (not to you) . but very good to know. I have a Lyman GPR . . .Like that Trade Rifle .

Thanks

Micah

 

[Onojutta]

Anyone use Lin-Speed oil? Claims to offer better protection than straight BLO and not as glossy as Tru-Oil...

 

[Artificer]

Anyone use Lin-Speed oil?

Yes, I keep it in stock for a couple VERY PARTICULAR applications that do not cross over to Black Powder guns that well.

Claims to offer better protection than straight BLO ...

It does and ESPECIALLY MOST of the types of BLO on the market today.

and not as glossy as Tru-Oil...

Well, not quite as glossy, but you still need to abrade the final coat a bit.

For the most part, I most strongly advise AGAINST using most Modern BLO compounds as they have petroleum in them and it is NOT good for wood.

An original period Linseed Oil finish was heated AND they added "Japan Driers" of different sorts to the oil when it was heated. So it is NOT the garbage that is mostly sold as BLO today.

There is ONE notable exception to modern BLO and that is the "BLO" Tru Value Hardware used to sell in the Blue can. Actually, it was Stand Oil and not BLO. I can't find it on their website, though.

Gus

 

[Pete G]

I like to use several coats of tung oil finish, which I believe is really just a modified varnish and is totally correct for our style guns. I will use BLO as part of the cleaning regimen by hand rubbing on a coat then using a paper towel to wipe off as much as possible. Over time this will leave the much desired patina that we all like so much. A word of caution however; the oily paper towels are the things that can cause spontaneous combustion, so dispose of them properly, preferably by burning.

 

[Donny]

Yea, they don't sell raw linseed oil anymore. rats

 

[MSW]

Wow . . . some of these are new to me . . . thanks for the info.

I can't recall if it is LMF or Jim Chambers, but there's something in a yellow metal bottle guys use called something like Permalyn . .I may be way off base. . . anyone who used that able to correct my spelling and make a recommendation on it?

you're spelling it correctly, as best I remember. I get mine through Track of the Wolf.

here's a link: http://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/1024/1/LMF-FINISH

BUT it has a pretty short shelf life, so if you don't use it all on the first two or three weeks, pitch it out and get some fresh. You might try the trick of putting cheap marbles into the can and bring the level of the liquid back up to the top of the bottle - this works for some finishes, but I've never tried it with this one.


I've used it to finish shaving brush handles and I can attest that this stuff is darn near 'bulletproof' as far as being resistant to water (wouldn't call it "waterproof," but then again, I've been using the brush I made for myself for over five years and I've never had any problems) ... so I wouldn't hesitate a second to use it as a gunstock finish ... there is also a Permalyn sealer, which goes on first. I am given to understand that this is Permalyn with some extra solvent thrown in - don't know for sure, but a few coats of this stuff does indeed soak into end grain like nobody's business ... anyway, I used this on my last build, and it came out looking great. had to do a very light pass with 0000 steel wool to knock down the shine.

 

[ZUG]

Here are three products that I find that work for me and you can adjust how the end effect is by varying the application - they are not listed in any order of preference: Laurel Mountain Permalyn Stock Sealer, Jim Chambers oil finish, & TruOil thinned 50/50 with mineral spirits.