Load Rec for Lyman GPR

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406life

32 Cal
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I have a new Lyman Pedersoli GPR. I picked up some TC Maxi, 275gr and Pyrosex RS. This is my first ML I've wonder, but I've shot a handful. Anyone have a recommendation on a load, and maybe any other first timer thoughts?
 
Mine shoots good with 90 gr of Goex 2F and a PRB.

Have you loaded that Maxi yet? Might be good in Colorado for elk. I'm curious how well it fits the bore and how hard it is to get started. I didn't know the Maxi came that light?
 
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I shoot strictly patch and ball. I did well with 70 grains FF with .530 patched with .015, but I havent played with it much. I will probably move up to 80 grains of FF like I normally shoot 80 with the same patch and ball for my older GPR.
 
Did I miss the caliber? My GPR is in .54 caliber. The twist rate on the Lyman GPR is intended for patched round balls, and that is what I shoot. I use 80 grains of FF down the pipe and either FF or FFF or FFFF in the pan (doesn't much matter which one--they will all work). Put a lot of time at the range so that you get to know this gun. Mine, for example, shoots the first shot (clean barrel) a bit off from the others, but once the barrel is dirty, it holds a nice pattern for me out to 100y, which would be my max ethical shot with a flintlock. I've played with .530 and .535 ball sizes, and either .010 or .015 patches. I think I'm settling for the .535 ball with the .010 patch this year, as it seems to be the most consistent for me.

For hunting purposes, I recommend you look into getting a few speedloader tubes that you can carry with you for a follow-up shot. Believe it or not, I've had time to use them once before on whitetail from a treestand (deer was so confused where that sound came from), but I mainly like them for hunting purposes because they're so dang convenient and I don't like to lug around extra gear during hunts just to "look the part." I do not mean to offend those who like to reenact in the woods during hunting season... I may do some reenacting at some future date, but my hunting time is currently still quite focused on staying warm, comfortable, safe, while enjoying the old-school flintlock experience. I rarely carry a modern firearm these days--it's all archery or flintlock now for me.
 
I think you will find in the long run that shooting patched round balls is easier and more economical. Yes, without the caliber we can't give good recommendations on loads. You do need to lube the grooves of the maxi ball. MtnMan the TC maxi came in 2 sizes a 2 band at 275 and a 3 band at 425?
 
Hog........If you don't mean to offend you could have worded it different. Look the part is not the reason at all.
 
I think you will find in the long run that shooting patched round balls is easier and more economical. Yes, without the caliber we can't give good recommendations on loads. You do need to lube the grooves of the maxi ball. MtnMan the TC maxi came in 2 sizes a 2 band at 275 and a 3 band at 425?

That must be for a .54? I thought they were 320 gr and 370 gr for a .50?

I never had any use for them but it would be an easier fix to hunt elk than having my barrel bored out.
 
So...I should have mentioned a few more things...
It's a .50cal, with the 1-24 twist, The TC are 385gr and are pre-lubed with the three bands. The rifle is a percussion and I do plan on hunting it, not reenacting. I have a couple of special short range hunts coming up which tipped me to getting into them, something I've wanted to do for sometime.
 
Regardless of the projectile there is no better choice than real BLACK POWDER . I used Pyrodex in my Renegade for twenty years and struggled always getting the crud ring out of my barrel .Black Powder cleans up much easier than Pyrodex. I have read that Pyrodex is made from the same materials as BP but I don't believe it . I will not use the substitutes in my guns ever again.
 
Did I miss the caliber? My GPR is in .54 caliber. The twist rate on the Lyman GPR is intended for patched round balls, and that is what I shoot. I use 80 grains of FF down the pipe and either FF or FFF or FFFF in the pan (doesn't much matter which one--they will all work). Put a lot of time at the range so that you get to know this gun. Mine, for example, shoots the first shot (clean barrel) a bit off from the others, but once the barrel is dirty, it holds a nice pattern for me out to 100y, which would be my max ethical shot with a flintlock. I've played with .530 and .535 ball sizes, and either .010 or .015 patches. I think I'm settling for the .535 ball with the .010 patch this year, as it seems to be the most consistent for me.

For hunting purposes, I recommend you look into getting a few speedloader tubes that you can carry with you for a follow-up shot. Believe it or not, I've had time to use them once before on whitetail from a treestand (deer was so confused where that sound came from), but I mainly like them for hunting purposes because they're so dang convenient and I don't like to lug around extra gear during hunts just to "look the part." I do not mean to offend those who like to reenact in the woods during hunting season... I may do some reenacting at some future date, but my hunting time is currently still quite focused on staying warm, comfortable, safe, while enjoying the old-school flintlock experience. I rarely carry a modern firearm these days--it's all archery or flintlock now for me.
I enjoy going back and reading old treads and came across yours. I am not able to do the things I use to as regularly as I once did so I spend a lot of my time reading and enjoying what people write on different forums..Your description on the load for your .54, the use of speed loaders and 80 grains of powder are exactly the same as mine?I didn't have a computer when I started it was mostly trial and error. I think that not having information all ways there made it more fun? Ironically you and I game to the same conclusion. Thanks for the post and quit reading my mind! LOL!
 
So...I should have mentioned a few more things...
It's a .50cal, with the 1-24 twist, The TC are 385gr and are pre-lubed with the three bands. The rifle is a percussion and I do plan on hunting it, not reenacting. I have a couple of special short range hunts coming up which tipped me to getting into them, something I've wanted to do for sometime.

You mislead me when you called your gun a GPR. It's not. You have the GPH which has the fast twist. The GPR is a slow twist meant for a PRB.
 
You mislead me when you called your gun a GPR. It's not. You have the GPH which has the fast twist. The GPR is a slow twist meant for a PRB.
My apologies. I do have the Great Plains Hunter, percussion .50cal, with the 1-24 twist.
 
I believe you will really enjoy your Great Plains Hunter model... I have the Great Plains Rifle, and this thing is just dead nuts accurate with the patched round ball.
 
I thought I'd report back. I have been getting a three inch group at 100yds with 95gr of Pyrodex RS and a 385 Maxiballs. I feel confident that the group could be tighter with some practice, but I'm pretty happy with what I've achieved so far.
 
I thought I'd report back. I have been getting a three inch group at 100yds with 95gr of Pyrodex RS and a 385 Maxiballs. I feel confident that the group could be tighter with some practice, but I'm pretty happy with what I've achieved so far.
There's a guy on the other forum that does a lot of long range shooting with muzzleloaders.
With that TC maxi ball, he recommends two things. An over powder cushion wad and removing the lube from the top band of that bullet. He believes that the maxi ball is way over lubed, which affects accuracy.
 
A well-lubed maxi-ball or Lee real over a 70 to 90 grain measure of pyrodex shot great in my 54cal GPR. Yes, I said pyrodex. and I use bore-butter too. A good cleaning after shooting and none of my guns have rusted away or become problematic in 50 years of foolin' with these things.
 
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