loading block question
- Thread starter bnail
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
Guest
Musket Man sent this when I had a similar question
Thanks Crowhop, That's what I was afraid of. I think 3/4 is too big; though my bore is 3/4" I figure the loading block has to be a might smaller in order for the balls to stay in place.
I was figuring something like .715+.20=.735; unfortunately, I can't figure what size bit that would be.
Is there anyone out there with a Bess who uses a loading block?
I was figuring something like .715+.20=.735; unfortunately, I can't figure what size bit that would be.
Is there anyone out there with a Bess who uses a loading block?
Guest
What about the 11/16 and a rat tail file?
try grainger or any reputable supply house and look for either wire sized drills or those in the 64th range. tap bits get pretty criticle so you can get a bit real close by tightening the range from 16th series to 32 or 64th series bits.
Brett
Brett
Just to add my opinion, I have been shooting a .75 cal. Bess for 20 some years and have found a 3/4 hole works great. Just as a trial Get a piece of scrap wood and drill a 3/4 hole and see how the ball and patch fits before you make the one for show. It works for me. Good luck.
The 3/4" diameter hole is the size I use for my loading block for my Bess. You want the block to have just enogh grip to hold the patched ball in place.
I too use a 3/4" wood auger for my .750 Bess.
Using the .715 ball myself with Med. weight Denum patches about 0.028 non-compressed (.021 +/- compressed). Using a 2' thick piece of wood is nice for drilling a clean hole. Then I slice it to just over 3/8 thick. The hole works well in holding the patched ball without squeezing the lube out and pre-compressing before loading.
Swamp Rat's posting of a "Horse Trade" further down in shooting acc. has a photo of a simple Teak block that I made for his musket. I have one for myself as well.
Using the .715 ball myself with Med. weight Denum patches about 0.028 non-compressed (.021 +/- compressed). Using a 2' thick piece of wood is nice for drilling a clean hole. Then I slice it to just over 3/8 thick. The hole works well in holding the patched ball without squeezing the lube out and pre-compressing before loading.
Swamp Rat's posting of a "Horse Trade" further down in shooting acc. has a photo of a simple Teak block that I made for his musket. I have one for myself as well.
Thanks guys, I'll give The 3/4" hole a try. as usual, I tried to over-engineer this thing.
Riarcher, your block looks about what I'm aiming for. I figure more than three .715 PRB might get a little heavy. I'll give this a try and see what happens. Thanks again. :thumbsup:
Riarcher, your block looks about what I'm aiming for. I figure more than three .715 PRB might get a little heavy. I'll give this a try and see what happens. Thanks again. :thumbsup:
I just check the site you linked to, Thanks.
If my 3/4" bit doesn't "measure up" so-to-speak, I now have altenative bit sizes from which to choose. However, I'd imagine that finding these might be a little difficult, as I but the local True-value won't carry 'em.
If my 3/4" bit doesn't "measure up" so-to-speak, I now have altenative bit sizes from which to choose. However, I'd imagine that finding these might be a little difficult, as I but the local True-value won't carry 'em.
As a side note, If you're needing an odd size bit for wood, Try one of them flat wood boring bits.
Measure across, grind 1 side 1/2 to the desired size, then grind the otherside to dimension.
The upper section can be ground for clearance so only the more leading edge cuts to diameter.
If you're playing with steel, a "Spade bit" (essentially the same principal) can be worked the same way.
Works good, just do the math, and copy the profile. Used this "trick" for years as a tool&die maker.
Measure across, grind 1 side 1/2 to the desired size, then grind the otherside to dimension.
The upper section can be ground for clearance so only the more leading edge cuts to diameter.
If you're playing with steel, a "Spade bit" (essentially the same principal) can be worked the same way.
Works good, just do the math, and copy the profile. Used this "trick" for years as a tool&die maker.
Check here for pics and info.
[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum...284/post/242535/hl/loading+block/#242535[/url]
[url] http://www.muzzleloadingforum...284/post/242535/hl/loading+block/#242535[/url]
Last edited by a moderator:
Slake said:
A loading block is something that holds pre-lubed patched roundball in preparation for the next shot... (like a speed loader for roundballs, but without the plastic)
They are usually made of wood, but can be made from bone or antler as well...
To load the loading block: Center a lubed patch over one of holes (just like you would the muzzle of your gun) and then push in a proper sized roundball until flush with the top of the loading block... (fill all the holes the same way)
To use the loading block: Measure out your powder charge and dump it down your barrel as normal when loading, then center one of the holes over the muzzle and with your ramrod (or short starter) push the patched ball into your bore... You can either remove the block and finish ramming the patched roundball down the barrel or just run it down while the ramrod is through the block, saving a step...
I like it! Thank you for your answers and {photo} I don't know how I've missed this chapter of my ML career up until now. I've been reading about them and thought about what they were but was confused. Most of the questions I read seem to be about to stain or not stain and diameter of the holes; What about thickness of the block itself or is that elementary, compared to calibre? It seeems to me something you would do just before a shoot, not, say weeks?
Similar threads
- Locked
