Loading Blocks for patched round balls

[brassell31]

I buy flat paddle bits oversize and grind down to size a little bit at a time on both edges and try with scraps until it holds a patched ball. Any hardwood will do. I used to compete in a competition that required 12 shots +2 for sighters. That 14 round loading block now amost qualifies as a high capacity mag here in Colorado.

 

[Salvavita]

Mine are like yours. I took a commercial .50 ball block & cut it in half. Reamed one out one half for .54,

Snake, how much of that kit did you make yourself, sir?

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Snake, how much of that kit did you make yourself, sir?

Well, let me see, I made the block, the cross, all the sinew hanging threads/straps, and replaced the buckles on the bag etc with period correct hardware. Also made the antler measure. The bag & horn were a set by Brad Emig from Cabin Creek ML's, the brass is Ted Cash, The flint wallet & forged hammer/turn key TOTW

 

[Rifleman1776]

I have a woodworking shop that includes a planer. With that I can make a hunk of wood whatever thickness I want to suit any caliber for a loading block. Handy tool to have. Search out a friend who might have one you can use.

 

[RedBear]

I made mine out of maple for .490 patched roundball. First I used a 15/16 paddle bit about 1/4 inch deep to accommodate my barrel. Then using the center hole as a guide I used a 1/2 drill bit for my .490 ball and .010 patch combination. The second board is same patched roundball combination except I only drilled with a 1/2 bit and not a 15/16 paddle bit.

 

[Trapper Scott]

They are really easy to make, the sky is the limit on design, just about any piece of scrap wood will work.

Here is the drill bit size chart, you can use any bit that is close to these sizes and adjust the hole to be bigger with a file or piece of sand paper. I have a number of .54s so I bought the bit listed on the chart but it isn't completely necessary.

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These are fun to make and before long all your friends will be overstocked with them as well from the ones you gave them.

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Thanks for sharing this.

 

[appalichian hunter]

Make yer own, aint nutthin but a piece of wood wit sum holes in it. And you can say you made it.

 

[tenngun]

I found the information in the chart less than accurate for my needs. In other words, the holes proved too small on the sizes I tried. It ain’t rocket surgery, thumb fit ball and patch in a hole. I made up some .45, 50, and .54 for the prize blanket for the ‘vous, they all got grabbed up. I am pondering making a semi-circle block hung on a neckless for my .36, should not be too heavy. Just swing it up to load and then let it hang. There are threads on the forum of some member crafted blocks. There are some handy and creative people here.

I too found a bigger hole better. 9/16 for .50, and 5/8 for .54.
Thumb start easy when loading one, greased patch holds well in carry.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I like the idea of drilling a round hole for the barrel, I see another project in my future.

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Eric,
If the balls protrude on one side, they are dead easy to centre over the muzzle without the extra work.

Very best,
Rich.

 

[user 48679]

I like the idea of drilling a round hole for the barrel, I see another project in my future.

I also had to make an inlet to accept the front end of the under rib on my T/C Seneca, so the loader would fully seat on the muzzle

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Eric,
If the balls protrude on one side, they are dead easy to centre over the muzzle without the extra work.

Very best,
Rich.

I agree, I have never had a problem using a loading block

 

[RedBear]

Eric,
If the balls protrude on one side, they are dead easy to centre over the muzzle without the extra work.

Very best,
Rich.

I agree, that's why I made both styles. Either way they both get used and it wasn't much extra work anyways. Unless you think changing a bit is work

 

[Timber Wolf]

Eric,
If the balls protrude on one side, they are dead easy to centre over the muzzle without the extra work.

Very best,
Rich.

I make my blocks pretty close to the thickness of the hole, that way nothing sticks out to get too dirty or rub off lube. I just push one out a little before loading.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I have lost track of how many conventional loading blocks I have made, all worked perfectly with no problems starting the ball even in a heated hunting situation. I am just an old tinkerer, live alone and have WAY too much free time, I need another ball board like I need an extra hole in my head but if a good idea comes up for me to waste time on, I go for it.

 

[TDM]

I currently don't have a loading block. I know, I know. Anyway this thread pushed me to start making one for my .50's. I was going to saw up some Cypress I have but I spied a piece of old Red Oak I had and used that. Its just ruffed out now, so I'll finish it tomorrow and post the finished product. But its tea time now.

 

[user 48679]

Of course, you can also make a loading block that also carries the caps & powder charge for each ball

 

[Snake Pleskin]

Of course, you can also make a loading block that also carries the caps & powder charge for each ball

I use a piece of leather with holes punched in it for my capper.

 

[Rich44]

I currently don't have a loading block. I know, I know. Anyway this thread pushed me to start making one for my .50's. I was going to saw up some Cypress I have but I spied a piece of old Red Oak I had and used that. Its just ruffed out now, so I'll finish it tomorrow and post the finished product. But its tea time now.

I also started making loading blocks for my couple guns. Love them, it is a great idea.

 

[Urban Coyote]

The ones carried in my possibles pouch are made from antler, double holers. I use them only when hunting. I have experimented with various "quick load" designs landing on a couple pre-measured powder charges contained in very authentic plastic film cans, not as common as they once were in our digital age, a loading block and capper.