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duelist1954

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I just finished writing an article for “Muzzleloader” magazine on setting up a hunting bag for smoothbore shooting. It will probably run in the magazine next year.

I also put together a video on loading smoothbores from the bag.

I welcome your thoughts on the subject.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=itHwpO6EVaw







 
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Thanks Spence. You've been a big help to me as try to learn the intricacies of smoothbore shooting.
 
I've been interested to see your results using the load of 2 ounces of shot and 110 grains 2F. That's very close to one of the only really detailed description of a load which I've found in the old literature, that of Thomas Page, 1767.

"To a barrel of a middle-sized bore, whose diameter is about five-eighths of an inch (which I look upon to be the best size for shooting flying), I put in two ounces of shot, No. 4, which are about 200 in an ounce, and an equal measure of powder. This is the charge I use in the field."

English shot #4 with 200 pellets to the ounce is equivalent to #5 1/2 American shot. Using 2 ounces of shot, an equal measure of powder is 123 grains, so you are very close to his load.

Spence
 
Spence,

I think that this video will show you what you're interested in, using a turkey head target at 40 yards and 30 yards.

Since making this I've found that 0ne ounce of shot and 110 grains of 2Fg is an effective load out to 25 yards.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PxTXFxGyTp4
 
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Yeah, I've seen that one. I also wanted to see you shoot at paper instead of clay birds, good job.

I notice in these videos you seem to have to fiddle a lot with your paper wads. I've not had that problem, and I think it's because I do what the old boys describe, rub them soft. I also make mine of brown paper grocery bags, but I crumple, twist and mash them several times before cutting them out, so that they are pretty soft and flexible, much easier to load.

I have trouble loading them with any ramrod which has any type of button or jag at the end, they grab it and come right back up. No problems like that when I use my plain wooden ramrod which is all the same diameter at the ramming end.

I always look forward to your next video, Mike, and find them very educational, interesting and fun to watch.

Spence
 
The rod on this fusil has a built in jag at the end.

I have taken your advice on distressing the bags, which makes them easier to load, but the jag still catches them.

sometimes I just reverse the rod to start the paper, then reverse it to ram it home.
 
That was a good starting video for beginners or a refresher for veterans. Thank you for sharing.

The smoothbore bug bit me bad recently and I'm loving it.
 
duelist1954 said:
The rod on this fusil has a built in jag at the end.
My double flint shot gun has a ramrod with a button like that, and I have the same problem with it. I have figured a solution which works pretty well, but only when I'm loading with tow or cedar bark. I like to put a paper wad over powder to help create a better seal, because I believe the gasses will blow through either tow or bark. When using that gun I barely start the paper below the muzzle, then put the ball of tow or bark in and ram both at the same time. The button doesn't catch that way.

Spence
 
Most enjoyable (and informative), as always. :thumbsup:

The only complaint I have with your videos is that they are so good that I have to watch the next one up, and then the one after that...and then my Wife starts complaining that I'm spending too much time on the computer. :grin:

Richard/Grumpa
 
At one of the clubs I shoot at they will have a tradegun match often where all accoutremnts must be on your person throughout the course.
Then when we get to the clays position they have little tables where they all empty their bags out to load their pieces and I think " What do these fellows do on the game trail?" I see the tables as a crutch and load directly from my pouch and usualy am in the line to shoot quicker than the table jockys
 

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