Loading revolver

[BIGBEAR]

question on loading:
I'm loading and shooting my 1858 Pietta Remington 44..
30.gr -3f black / .451 pure lead round ball ..

I've used no over powder wad , and no over ball lube/ sealer ...
Just wondering if a "dry" ball like that will lead the barrel faster...

If a lubed ball would be better , than could I coat them with liquid alox ?

I wasn't concerned with chain fire , because the ball is a nice tight fit ..
Just trying to get away from the mess of the over ball lube ..any thoughts ?

 

[Tom A Hawk]

I use SPG with conicals and as an over round ball lube. I don't think you will have to worry about leading at typical BP velocities. The SPG is less messy and I lube in an effort to keep the fouling soft rather than to prevent leading.

 

[bigted]

Simple answer is ... yes they will lead with no lube. The more fouling, the more lead deposits in the bore.

Lube will allow many cylinder full's without leading.

Original times, revolvers were generally used as a last ditch effort to remain alive. Very few were really good with them and this is the why of those that were good with one being well known and kinda famous.

Maybe some wax for weatherproof of the the mouth.

The military conducted some tests and recommended the paper cartridges to be lubed with bee wax/lard mixed 8 to 1 and 9 to 1 mix wax to lard.

The new method offers the best in repeatability and accuracy using a fair stiff bee wax/lube mix. However I have not read nor heard of lube of any kind used in the heyday of history in the Colts navy revolver.

 

[FishDFly]

I use a .454 ball, 15 grains of 3F and 18 grains of Cream of Wheat.

Folks will debate just about everything. I have read that COW helps with lead removal, I do not know. I use it to get the ball as far out of the cylinder as possible, which minimizing the jump into the forcing cone.

Lube is a combination of Gulf Wax, mineral oil and Vasoline. The mixture is varied for the weather. I have one lube for cold weather, I put it in the freezer to see how easily it spreads out.
I have another mixture for hot weather, goal is a lube that does not run every when it is 100 degree temps.

With mixtures like these there is not really a lot of mess.

The majority of line shooters use powder, COW, ball and what ever lube they prefer.

I shoot revolvers a lot and see no leading.

 

[BIGBEAR]

Thanks guys , I think I will start lubing over the ball - but sparingly...
To keep fouling soft ..mainly..

 

[Juice Jaws]

Thanks guys , I think I will start lubing over the ball - but sparingly...
To keep fouling soft ..mainly..

I am with Tom-Hawk, I don't see any leading problems. I shoot plain ball and sometimes lube over powder wad and have no problems. I never use lube over the balls just makes a mess , see no need to it.

 

[Mean Gene]

Just wondering if any one has tried putting a lubed wad over the ball, I was wondering if they had any success with it or if it would just fall out under recoil.

 

[TFoley]

Just wondering if any one has tried putting a lubed wad over the ball, I was wondering if they had any success with it or if it would just fall out under recoil.

Why would you put a lube wad in front of the ball? Is it just a matter of curiosity, or is there some purpose behind doing it that I've never figured out in over fifty years of shooting BP revolvers?

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Adams revolver moulds came I

n two types, One with a pin on the projectiole for a wad below the ball, and the other with a pin cast on the Front end of the projectiles for a wad. (Conical and ball mould in one)
Yes, the ball with a pin could be used either way up, but not the conical!

 

[arcticap]

Why would you put a lube wad in front of the ball? Is it just a matter of curiosity, or is there some purpose behind doing it that I've never figured out in over fifty years of shooting BP revolvers?

I think that the purpose of placing a lubed wad over the ball would be the same as putting lube over the ball, to spread some lube except with less mess.
And also to help prevent chain fire.
The Remington 1858 doesn't have a cylinder bushing which leaves it exposed to fouling, and the barrel and cylinder face can also collect fouling, so for some folks, a little lube is better than none.
That's why some folks only lube every other chamber, others use a dry wad, some apply only a small bead of loose grease, while others put the lube or lube carrier under the ball.
Perhaps if someone were to carry or store their gun in a holster for an extended period of time, the lubed wad being over the ball would help prevent the powder from becoming contaminated Vs. placing it under the ball.
If a person had chambers that were pitted, or if cast balls were not sealing as perfectly as they could, then having some form of chain fire protection is a decision that each individual shooter makes.
There's a myriad of reasons why people experiment and do things differently.
Some methods may work better than others, but there's so many different types of guns and in varying conditions that I wouldn't scoff at any idea that anyone cares to try.

 

[sawyer04]

For years I smudged grease over the bullet to lubricate and prevent chain fires. It worked, but I got to using a lubed pad under the bullet when I found out most chain fires originate behind the cylinder because of a loose cap or faulty nipple. The wad behind the ball lubes and cleans the barrel on the way out, makes sense to me. That being said I have read that some ranges will not let you fire unless the cylinder is grease covered. The cap to nipple fit is where, I think the chain fire occurs; and I believe the lube behind the ball is logical along with the swiping action of the wad.

 

[azmntman]

They make commercial dry lube wads to put under the ball? I have used em and recommend over greasy mess on the ball which will melt and spray after one round fired.

 

[Zonie]

I think the blast from the firing chamber would have a good chance of blowing the wads over the balls in the adjacent chambers out of the sides of the gun.

 

[arcticap]

The RMC product page for their Wonder Seals states to "place them over the ball".--->>> https://www.rmcoxyoke.com/inc/sdetail/ox_yoke_originals_wonder_seals/17324/238
They look like a Wonder Wad only thicker.
Their diagram shows to place a Wonder Wad below the ball and a Wonder Seal above the ball.

"Ox-Yoke Originals Wonder Seals
Price: $12.50
Ox-Yoke Originals Wonder Seals - New preformed seals for sealing chambers on blackpowder revolvers to help prevent crossfires when shooting.
Easy to use simply place seal over ball on end of cylinder and push it in place to expand it to make a seal , no need to smear lube or grease to prevent a crossfire."

 

[BIGBEAR]

Interesting , they are wonder seals over ball and wonder wads over powder ...
Something like a bees wax seal I'm guessing..

 

[JCB]

I’ve found the best way to load for me in my .44 is to use a felt wad,lubed in 50/50 beeswax and olive oil between the powder and ball. This keeps the barrel very clean. I know I’ve shot over 80 rounds before and never had to clean between reloading. I get my felt from durofelt.com. In my .36 I’ve started using the method that Jared from Longhunters uses. If you do a search on utube for Longhunters percussion revolver loading it should come up. If you load using this method you can buy the supplies you need from Buffaloarms. After years of shooting these guns I’ve found this to be the best way to load IMHO. There’s no mess and my guns don’t get fouled up

 

[Eras Gone]

I use a lube made of 2 parts beeswax and 1 part beef tallow. I smear just a bit over the bullet. I've tried lubed wads and they are very convenient, but they seem to negatively affect accuracy for me. If I'm shooting combustible cartridges, the bullets are dipped lubed is melted lube (8 parts wax, 1 part tallow) and allowed to drip off. This fills the grease groove with lube. As other have said, the lube helps keep the fowling soft and ensures better engagement with the rifling. It has nothing to do with preventing chain fires. Good fitting caps and tight lead bullets do that. I do most of my shooting with my .36 Colt Cartridge Works bullets and my Johnston & Dow .44s.

 

[Badgerfarm]

Just a heads up in case you guys weren't aware of it but Eras Gone makes some excellent original pattern molds for C&B revolvers at a reasonable price if you're looking for HC. Just a thought.

 

[fireman1]

tag for later reading.

 

[45man]

True a chain fire is from behind with a good fitting ball. Lube just keeps fouling soft to be shot out. Never use any mineral wax or oils with BP. Animal oils and beeswax or seed based oils only.
The reason I don't use a wad or a bullet is it limits the powder charge for deer. If you just target shoot a filler is good. I make use of the chamber and my Ruger OA takes 41 gr of Swiss FFFG for over 1100 fps to knock a deer dead. Not as accurate as a lighter load but I hunt close.