Lock and Breach Plug Alinement

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Thank all of your advice I really appreciate it. The pictures of my project is loosely put together to show where my problem were. My wood to metal fit is descent and am happy with the build except for the lock hammer and breach plug. I have a nice Hawken blank and will more than likely use the hardware for a scratch build. Does anyone know anything on taller hammers?
Try TOW (there are other suppliers) though it’s possible a different throw hammer isn’t necessary if you check a few things. Search - Track of the Wolf
Wish you luck.
 
20170512_202223.jpeg
 
I had the same issue when I built Track's Kit Carson kit about 10 years ago. Additionally, at half cock there was no clearance to get a capper in to cap without thumbing back the hammer in between half and full cock. I think this is an unsafe method of capping, but I have seen this second issue on many percussion guns, and apparently it is accepted that you have to go to full cock, again which I think is unsafe, to cap. I solved both problems by plug welding the hammer square hole and moving it back, as well as re-clocking the square hole about 15 degrees to achieve the ability to cap at half cock. Having a cardboard template of the hammer to replicate position of the square hole is needed to assure proper move of the hole. Then I removed metal from the front of the hammer to provide symmetry to the appearance of the hammer so the hole was recentered. Flintlocks are easier to build!
 
That sounds like best idea for me. I’ll make a hammer template and try this weekend tomorrow I’m having the whole family over for sauerbraten, red cabbage and potato dumplings for dinner.
 
That sounds like best idea for me. I’ll make a hammer template and try this weekend tomorrow I’m having the whole family over for sauerbraten, red cabbage and potato dumplings for dinner.
Oh my, can I come? That's my favorite.
 
Here you go fellas, I filed a little better than a 16th of an inch in the hammer pocket and inserted a piece of hardened steel, and it made my hammer lined up with the nipple perfectly.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4878.jpeg
    IMG_4878.jpeg
    1.2 MB
  • IMG_4879.jpeg
    IMG_4879.jpeg
    437.5 KB
  • IMG_4875.jpeg
    IMG_4875.jpeg
    2.7 MB
Thank all of your advice I really appreciate it. The pictures of my project is loosely put together to show where my problem were. My wood to metal fit is descent and am happy with the build except for the lock hammer and breach plug. I have a nice Hawken blank and will more than likely use the hardware for a scratch build. Does anyone know anything on taller hammers?
All you need to do is get a Mapp gas torch Heat the hammer red hot about middle and "SLIGHTLY" bend it up that will allow it to clear the rim and hit the nipple
 
"I filed a little better than a 16th of an inch in the hammer pocket and inserted a piece of hardened steel"

I wish you had asked before doing that. That will not work long term. The hammer needs to be a tight press fit on the tumbler. It needs near 100% contact between the two and a tapered jam fit. A loose fit like that will just get worse with use. It also looks bad.

Sorry to be a downer.
 
Update on my hammer alignment. I ended up filing the hammer slot and adding a piece of tool steel to change the hammer and nipple alignment and it ended up working perfectly.
 

Attachments

  • image0.jpg
    image0.jpg
    2.3 MB
  • image1.jpg
    image1.jpg
    108.5 KB
  • image2.jpg
    image2.jpg
    606.1 KB
  • image3.jpg
    image3.jpg
    1.5 MB
  • image4.jpg
    image4.jpg
    669.3 KB
  • Video.mov
    1.1 MB
You seem to be fighting good advice. The tang is not seated and the barrel is high as well as the fit of the breech to the tang.
 
We’re still in the white and have a long way to go before staining and polish. The rifle is just put together for wood and metal fit and seeking advice from the forum.
 
Back
Top