Lock/Bolster Adjustment

[tx50cal]

I got a CVA sqirrel rifle kit today. Tonight I just set the tang in the inletted stock and then put the lock in the recess.I then tried to put the barrel in the hooked tang and the bolster was hitting on the lock. It seems that the lock inlet is too far to the rear or the tang is not to the rear enough. It looks like I could file some out of the cut out for the bolster and make it fit but then I would have too much space around the bolster. Should I just set the tang back slightly ( 1/16"), or try to play with the lock inletting? I have too inlet the pointed rear area of the lock to fit. I might be able to move the lock forward slightly. Any help will be appreciated.
Robert

 

[Toomuch_36]

The best remedy you could do in this case would be to inlet the tang back a little farther. To file out the mortice in the lock plate would be to let the drum set too far forward and the cock and nipple would not line up propperly. To inlet the lock farther forward would not only leave a large gap in the inlet at the rear of the lock plate but the trigger blade and the sear would not line up to fire the lock.

Toomuch
........
Shoot Flint

 

Maybe try smidgin' both a hair to make up the difference.
If you move the lock ....will the triggers still work right?
If they won't work then ya may have to move the breech back the whole measurement.
Ain't kit building fun? :grin:

 

[Zonie]

The fact that the lock won't fit properly into the mortice may give the appearance that things won't line up properly.
If I were doing the building, the first thing I would do is to get the lock to fit into the stock.

After doing this, I would then evaluate whether I need to move the tang/barrel aft.
If it requires moving, remove just a smidgen of material and check the alignment again.
Sometimes, just a little does a lot.
If it still requires more wood removal, then feel free to do it but keep checking often.

Zonie

 

[tx50cal]

Thanks guys I was thinking that the slight angle of the lock could be throwing things out of alignment. I will try to fit the lock first and go slow from there. By the way what size chisels do you guys use for inleting parts? The smallest that I can find locally is 1/4 " is this too big?
Robert

 

[fw707]

Are the tang screw holes pre-drilled on your gun? If they are you, won't be able to move the tang back very far without getting the holes out of alignment.
I've got the same problem on a GPR I just built from a kit, but it's not as bad as yours sounds. The barrel goes in on mine, but the bolster rubs just a little bit on the lock plate opening and makes it a little tight getting the barrel in and out. The front screw in the tang on my gun goes into the trigger plate, so I'm pretty much codlocked on the tang location. I'm gonna trim just a little off the lock plate and bolster till I get the clearance I need.
Hope that helps.

 

[Zonie]

IMO, a 1/4 inch chisel is OK but I've found that either buying a ready made 1/8 inch wide chisel or buying a 1/4 inch chisel and grinding its width down to 1/8 inch makes a real handy size to own.

It is especially useful for getting into small areas like the rear point of your lock or for cutting the narrow slots for thimbles and trigger blades.

Then, there are the little chisels I use for installing inlays.

These were made from pieces of music wire and a wooden dowel I got from the local Hardware store.

 

[tx50cal]

All of the holes in the stock are predrilled. I am going to work on this when I have time to set down and think and dry run fit the parts to see what I can do.