Lock Care

[JJB22]

I purchased a used Penn rifle a while back and have been enjoying the heck out of it. I noticed when I got the rifle that the outside surfaces were excellent but as I took the lock off there was a bit of tarnishing on the metal. I cleaned it up with some metal polish, a toothbrush, and some elbow grease--lubed it up with a light and put everything together. I have not shot it in a while (a month) and removed the lock last night and some rust was present. I usually clean in and out with soap and water, blow dry the parts with compressed air and spray them up with G-96 (my gun oil for those blasted new-fangled modern guns). I think the issue is more to due to the lock being bare metal. The builder of this rifle never "finished the lock. I thought the oil would do the deal but I can't stand the rust thing. I might be putting the rifle back together without having a totally dry stock, but I am pretty careful trying to maintain this rifle. Would you guys wax it, grease it, finish it,? Any help with this would be welcome. Jim

 

[rabjr]

You need to start readin the boards Jason. Also I rarely go two weeks without wiping down, including the bore of my custom guns.
http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/238404/

 

[JJB22]

It's Jim, I do wipe the gun down as well as run a oiled patch down the bore every three days without fail with this custom gun as I do with my three other mass-produced black powder firearms. I am just noticing a problem with this gun and lock. My other guns are 100 year later in the lock technology and don't have as many nocks and crevases. Thanks for the input. Jim

 

[rabjr]

Sorry about that Jim, thought you was someone else there for a minute. :v

 

[JJB22]

That's o.k. I just was hunting a few ideas. I just want to keep the gun as good as I can. My three year old will have something to give her grandkids when the time comes if I do my part.

 

[Trench]

First, make sure you've eliminated all the oxidizers of metal that might still be in your lock mortise. I have locks that are bare metal, and I don't see this problem with mine. Perhaps you could take your lock apart and polish all the parts smooth to remove any crevices in the metal. Plus, this will just help to speed up lock time by reducing friction. What do you think?

 

[mazo kid]

The inside of all my locks are polished smooth and bright and just lightly oiled. I don't have any rusting problem and we live in a pretty high humidity area (Wisconsin). When cleaning the gun, I always remove the lock, brush it clean with an old toothbrush and water, dry with a cloth and place in the sun while I finish the cleaning chores. Oil, re-assemble and good to go until next time.

 

[paulvallandigham]

Is the inside of your lock mortise, and the barrel channel of your stock SEALED with stock oil finish? If not you might want to consider doing that to the wood. The wood can hold moisture that is "rusting" your action on the stock. I leave my lockplate and parts bright, with a thin film of synthetic oil on them. The Synthetic oils don't seem to dry out, or run off the steel, like petroleum based oils do. I have also used Jojoba Oil( made from the beans of the Jojoba plant) to lube my lock during storage, and it doesn't evaporate over time, either. Jojoba oil is a plant derived substitute for Sperm Whale Oil.

I don't have experience with the gun oil you describe. But, I have used Rem Oil, and Hoppes gun oil with success over the years. Rust on the inside of the lock is not a problem unless I fail to clean BP residue that is blown into the lock during firing, after each firing session. :surrender: :hmm: :thumbsup:

 

[JJB22]

After looking at the stock, it looks like it does not have stain or a finish and is has some darkness to it from some BP residue. I am scrubbing it up as we speak and will put some sealer on the stock in that area to prevent moisture to get into it. Thanks to all for you ideas. Jim