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Lock identification

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I am not an expert on this forum but to me it appears that your flint is striking high and hard at the top of the frizzen. There seems to be just a hard strike line across it instead of a constant scraping of the frizzen to the pan. It looks like your flints are hitting straight into the frizzen at the top instead of scaping the frizzen to the pan.
 
I am not an expert on this forum but to me it appears that your flint is striking high and hard at the top of the frizzen. There seems to be just a hard strike line across it instead of a constant scraping of the frizzen to the pan. It looks like your flints are hitting straight into the frizzen at the top instead of scaping the frizzen to the pan.
What would you suggest to maybe correct this issue? I may have been doing this for 15 years but I’m pretty much a novice still lol
 
How long do your flints last? If they are breaking before 10 shots or less, I think the angle of the hammer isn't correct. That can be why the lock isn't sparking correctly and firing off the rifle. Maybe others can comment on this?
 
How long do your flints last? If they are breaking before 10 shots or less, I think the angle of the hammer isn't correct. That can be why the lock isn't sparking correctly and firing off the rifle. Maybe others can comment on this?
I’ve had this flint on it for ever I’m getting good spark it just doesn’t go off reliably I tried to take a slow motion video but it won’t let me upload it
 

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Am I seeing the flint with a blunt end where a sharp bevel should be? I can't see how it could ever get to shave metal into a spark. Just my observation.
No it comes to a tip my bad probably poor quality picture
 
glad we got the BURRED TANG SCREW, that I brought to the attention. straightened out.
 
This is on a old Italian made Dart 45 cal it was a kit gun I believe. Just wondering if there would be a lock I could replace it with eventually?
Losee that thing in the jaw, and get a properly knapped flint. Making the pan hollow larger might not hurt.
Should I take the frizzen off before doing the pan?
If you can get in under it, no need to, but it will be easier with it right out of the way.
We did drill out the touch hole some. My barrel doesn’t have a removable touch hole though
Put one in. Makes life easier. I use 1/4x28 set screws, drilled through with a 1/16 hole in the bottom of the Allen socket. Gently widen the exit with a countersink to create a funnel and shorten the 'throat' of the flash channel. This type of liner, while not PC, works well and can be easily removed using an allen wrench, thus allowing use of a tire valve ball discharger and a pipe and hose for cleaning.
 

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If the flint is hitting high you can experiment with how it is mounted. Turn the bevel taper up. Thicker leather near the screw thiner toward the frizzen . This may also help to direct the spark.
 
Yes I am using 4f black powder. The frisen is getting spark but it’s just not throwing it into that little pan
If it is not throwing it into the pan, that is the problem. How many sparks are you getting? 7-10 should be good. Also, the angle of the flint matters a bit to scrape more sparks. Is the frizzen opening all the way? Also, have you lubed the lock parts for fast action?
 
Drill your touch hole out with a 1/16 drill bit. I’ve also used a dremel to widen the pan on certain locks. It doesn’t take much powder so the pan probably isn’t the issue. I’ve had really good luck replacing touch hole liners with RMC OXyoke liners. Has made a world of difference in a few of my flintlocks.
Exactly as Tree Man says...
 
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