Lock problems
- Thread starter capt_turk
- Start date
Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:
...i'm with roundball... ship it back and let the manufacturer work it out... in fact, i'd ship the whole gun back to have them make it right...it's darn cheap insurance...better to be safe than sorry......by the way, cool railroad! :thumbsup:
Any warranty is out of the question. The gun is several years old. The damage to the old lock was my fault for not storing it properly, and I'm not gonna pay someone else to do something that I can figure out how to do myself. You don't learn self reliance, or how to fix things, by paying someone else to do things for you.
Anyway, fixing problems like this, is the best way to learn about something.
I'm old school. Run what ya brung, make do with what ya got. Don't expect someone else to take the blame, or fix your screwups.
Anyway, fixing problems like this, is the best way to learn about something.
I'm old school. Run what ya brung, make do with what ya got. Don't expect someone else to take the blame, or fix your screwups.
The Spanish made lock parts are probably case hardened and probably you can even cold bend the sear arm but I'd still heat it to be safe, using the vise as a heat sink to prevent softening the sear tip. Bending the sear arm is a simple and common modification. I'd never bother to send something back to the manufacturer, pay shipping and wait for who knows how long when I could fix it myself in five minutes at no cost.
If you did send it to the manufacturer they would just return it with a note that they found nothing wrong with it. And they would be right, there is nothing wrong with your lock, it just doesn't match up with your triggers as installed in your rifle.
If you did send it to the manufacturer they would just return it with a note that they found nothing wrong with it. And they would be right, there is nothing wrong with your lock, it just doesn't match up with your triggers as installed in your rifle.
Hopefully you are right about it being case hardened. If I end up grinding the bottom of the sear, then I can easily reharden it afterwards with a bit of Kasenit.
I think I still have some left from doing the pins and bearing of the last steam engine I built.
I think I still have some left from doing the pins and bearing of the last steam engine I built.
If you grind the bottom of the sear, you will not need to reharden it and any attempt to do so will probably cause more problems than it will cure.
The arm on the sear really isn't subject to much if any wear even if it is dead soft. That is to say that even with that area of the sear soft you could probably fire 5000 shots and not see much more than a light polishing and wear where the trigger blades were hitting it.
The arm on the sear really isn't subject to much if any wear even if it is dead soft. That is to say that even with that area of the sear soft you could probably fire 5000 shots and not see much more than a light polishing and wear where the trigger blades were hitting it.
Thanks Zonie. I was kinda wondering why it would be hardnened. It moves very little and can't have much loading, but usually there is a reason when something like that is done. The rifle spends most of it's time waiting for me to come home, so it doesn't get much use. Even less use than the wife, a complaint that I hear often. lol! Such is the life of a merchant seaman.
The reason it is hardened is because the nose that engages the tumbler must be hard.
The easiest way to harden the nose is to either make the whole thing out of a steel that will harden and harden and temper it or, in the case of a case hardened part, subject the whole thing to the carburizing material/gas and then harden it.
If only a select area of a hardenable part is to be hardened, special tooling is required to only heat and quench only that selected area while keeping the rest of the part cooler.
With a case hardened part where only a selected area is to be hardened, the rest of the part must be protected from the carburizing material/gas to keep the carbon away from the area that is to be kept soft.
Both of these processes cost money so it's cheaper to just harden the whole thing.
The easiest way to harden the nose is to either make the whole thing out of a steel that will harden and harden and temper it or, in the case of a case hardened part, subject the whole thing to the carburizing material/gas and then harden it.
If only a select area of a hardenable part is to be hardened, special tooling is required to only heat and quench only that selected area while keeping the rest of the part cooler.
With a case hardened part where only a selected area is to be hardened, the rest of the part must be protected from the carburizing material/gas to keep the carbon away from the area that is to be kept soft.
Both of these processes cost money so it's cheaper to just harden the whole thing.
