Long rifle ramrod length?

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If I can't do what Phil Coffins does (ramrod hole as deep as possible) then I do what Kodiak13 does (having it a tad longer). I've never snagged a brush or have broken such a tip ...

But like others stated, another good option in your 'field' kit is a longer jag. CVA and others make 4" long jags in 50 and 54-caliber, and if needed you can custom file the 50 to be sized to a 45 or smaller.

Tip - I mic a regular 45 jag diameter that I like, file a 50-cal one smaller and then use a triangle file to file back in the steps/grooves that hold the patch.

Jag.jpg
 
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If I can't do what Phil Coffins does (ramrod hole as deep as possible) then I do what Kodiak13 does (having it a tad longer). I've never snagged a brush or have broken such a tip ...

But like others stated, another good option in your 'field' kit is a longer jag. CVA and others make 4" long jags in 50 and 54-caliber, and if needed you can custom file the 50 to be sized to a 45 or smaller.

Tip - I mic a regular 45 jag diameter that I like, file it smaller and then use a triangle file to file back in the steps/grooves that hold the patch.

View attachment 168951
Thanks! Good to know!!
 
Mine sticks out past the muzzle, if it didn't it would be too short to reach the breech.
 
That’s not been my experience.
Have seen a few that stuck out, but not many.
Almost all I have seen in museums and gun shows were flush or below flush.
I was curious about the photos that I've seen because (I) being new to this and having recently acquired a GPR 54 flinter find it difficult to pull my snug fitting RR that's slightly shorter than the barrel and wish it was longer for a better grasp. I literally have to place the butt on the ground and quite firmly grasp the barrel with one hand and again quite firmly pinch the RR with the other and work it out.
 
I think the difference is, back in the day when DAILY maintenance of the rifle was done with what the rifle and the person carried, the longer ramrod was employed for obvious reasons. Since muzzleloaders where still somewhat commonly used in the poor regions of southern Appalachia, most every photo I’ve seen has a ramrod sticking out 2-4” past the muzzle. The best proof one could have of what was employed in earlier times. Indisputable proof, a rare glimpse of earlier times.

Today, not needed. A hindrance when putting in a gun sleeve/case that we use to transport…and not many of us (who bring a toolbox full of goodies and range rod in tow (I’m guilty…) have use for a long ramrod…

I have 2 ramrods for my southern rifles…one “long” like photographs indicate was used and one not so long…(so I can use a ball starter with my tight patch combo, with my tool chest of goodies and trinkets that a real user of the muzzleloader rifle back in the day would probably shake his head at…)..
 
I was curious about the photos that I've seen because (I) being new to this and having recently acquired a GPR 54 flinter find it difficult to pull my snug fitting RR that's slightly shorter than the barrel and wish it was longer for a better grasp. I literally have to place the butt on the ground and quite firmly grasp the barrel with one hand and again quite firmly pinch the RR with the other and work it out.

You need to take some sandpaper or a scraper to that ramrod and reduce it’s diameter. Put a smooth finish on it.
Be careful how and where you remove material. More than likely it only needs a little more taper in one or two places.
When finished, work in some kind of sealer or thin wax to keep it from absorbing so much soot and patch lube, and to reduce swelling and shrinkage with changes in humidity.
Also gives it a soft sheen.
Proceed carefully. Slide the ramrod back into the ramrod channel often while working to check your progress.You do not want it to end up undersized and loose in the gun.
 
You need to take some sandpaper or a scraper to that ramrod and reduce it’s diameter. Put a smooth finish on it.
Be careful how and where you remove material. More than likely it only needs a little more taper in one or two places.
When finished, work in some kind of sealer or thin wax to keep it from absorbing so much soot and patch lube, and to reduce swelling and shrinkage with changes in humidity.
Also gives it a soft sheen.
Proceed carefully. Slide the ramrod back into the ramrod channel often while working to check your progress.You do not want it to end up undersized and loose in the gun.
I did send it quite a bit in fact and snd sealed it good. It has a noticeable bow in it which I've read is normal for just the reason you state "for good retention" it goes in a lot easier than it comes out but still requires the butt on the ground. I'd like to be able to perform either operation one handed without grounding the rifle.
 
I did send it quite a bit in fact and snd sealed it good. It has a noticeable bow in it which I've read is normal for just the reason you state "for good retention" it goes in a lot easier than it comes out but still requires the butt on the ground. I'd like to be able to perform either operation one handed without grounding the rifle.

Sand it some more.
If all else fails, you can always make another one. It’s not all that difficult.
You could also straighten the ramrod using a heat source like the guys that shoot wooden arrows with traditional archery do.
 
Nope. When the rod sticks out past the barrel every shot blows grease and black fouling on it and it makes everything a little messier
Also, in extreme cases where the rod sticks out several inches past the muzzle the rod is more likely to snag on something and getting cracked or broken.
I'm fine with that. I'll wipe it off. Me can do that. Me big boy.
 
Ramrods can be a real pita to remove sometimes. Yes, you can sand, etc re seal , I get it, still, many times they are still a pita to remove IMHO! Having an extra inch or two stick out beyond the muzzle allows one to get a better grip on a recalcitrant rod that is sticking in place! It does not always look as nice, but,it is what it is. IMHO
 
While starting to clean up the 40 years of gunk on the Hawken's I went ahead and adjusted the length of the ram rod. I glued/pinned a 2d thimble to the other end of it with the same internal 10-32 thread as the original. By adjusting the over-all length I was able to shorten the RR to the same length as the original stick and the new thimble bottoms out nicely. The advantage is if something is stuck I can thread an extraction tool to one end and my 6" forged extension to the other and have a double handed grip to extract the blockage.
 
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