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lookin for some ideas got 22.cal flinter

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JSS

32 Cal.
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Jan 5, 2007
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i just finished this cute lookin little 22 cal flinter got several ideas for projectiles i found .20 round ball wieghing 12gr., and a couple of air gun pellets the first weighs 29.2 gr the second is 21.8gr i was thinkin of using 4f for both charge and pan but i am not sure how much any of you guys with 25s got any ideas
 
One of the guys I know owns a .22 cal flinter. He said he starts out with a .22lr case and fills it with 4f for a charge. Said it was plenty for his little rifle and it makes a nice crack when fired.
Highlander
 
Number 2 lead shot is nominally .15 diameter. I can't find the right reference book right now, but #1's or the next size larger ought to be even closer to the right size. Patch thickness will have to be adjusted accordingly.

Another possibility: Check with the companies that make moulds for casting fishing sinkers. I recall that at least one has a mould for different sizes of splitshot. I bet you can come close for "cast your own." Then there are the custom mould makers to consider.
 
jss,

sounds like a fun gun.. be carefull using air gun pellets..quite often the heads blow out and you are left with the skirt in the bbl..

..ttfn..grampa..
 
JSS said:
i found .20 round ball wieghing 12gr., and a couple of air gun pellets the first weighs 29.2 gr the second is 21.8gr

interesting that a solid RB in .22 weighs only 12grs and them pellets weigh more :hmm: :v ........bob
 
Well, consider that the head of a .22 pellet isn't that far off from the overall size size of a round ball if it was reshaped, plus then there's all the skirt material
 
So would pellets be considered Minnie Balls?Beeman used to make a dome cap pellet that was pretty heavy.
 
We taked about this last night. Where are the pics man? :hmm:

Lookin forward to seeing this one Jeff. :thumbsup:
 
JSS, don't know your bore diameter, so don't know if this would work, but H&N make lead rb in .217, for air guns.
 
That's a lot closer that what I found Midsouth has some Gamo .177 lead round balls. I also found my reference and BB size shot for shotshells is .18. Probably the cheapest alternative, but even 5# is going to last you a loooooooong time.
 
the lhe round ball i found mics out at .20
as far as the barrel goes the gun is built off of a henry 22 octagon barrel
hoping to post pics shortly i need to get my camera back from my little brother
planning on shooting it on sat so i will have some updates as far as performance
another thing that i found was that i can get ball bearings that mic out at .210 but i dont know about shooting steel on steel :shocked2:
 
You don't want to be shooting ball bearings. They ricochette horribly and are a serious danger, even at that light weight.
 
XXGrampa, thanks for the caution on using 22 cal. pellets.
I built an under hammer percussion pistol in 22 cal a few years ago and was going to use the same pellets. I haven't gotten around to shooting it yet; I'll be very watchful tho when I do. Emery
 
There is a company I can't think of the name of right now that makes a .22 percussion revolver. Ammo for that pistol should shoot ok in your rifle.

Being as though your barrel came off of a cartridge gun it must have a fast twist anyways so I would give them a shot. Sounds like a fun squirel gun.
 
I think you're refering to North American Arms out of Utah. The bullets that they supply seem to be a lead 'heeled' bullet designed for .22 Short ammo. They would weigh about 29gns.
 
well i finally got out to shoot it today and i found out that i have some work to do still for some reason the little beckys lock that i am using is very dificult to get consistant ignition in the pans .... its not that i am not getting sparks cause i am get plenty of spark just none of it is making it into the pan its over shooting it, the sparks are hitting the pivot point of the frizen... problem number 2 is that the 4 f powder falls though the touch hole so i think i need to step it up to 3f so back to the bench for a bit
 
Widen that flashpan with a dremel tool grinder, leaving only 1/16" around the outside to make contact with the bottom of the frizzen when its closed. That give your sparks a bigger target. It sounds like you are using flints that are too long, as that is the usual reason sparks hit too far forward to ignite the powder. Chip or cut the edge back and you should have good ignition. Polish that pan mirror smooth, so it won't hold powder residue after every shot. A slick finish makes it very easy to clean with just a swipe of a cleaining patch. By widening the pan, you can get your thumb down into it to clean it with that patch easier, too. Then wipe off the underside of the frizzen, and the underside of your flint, and you are ready to reload.
 
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