I have a nice block of cherry and I want to whittle it down to make a stock for my Bobcat. I am looking for suggestions as to what the order of operation should be. My logic says inlet the barrel, the lock, the trigger and then the furniture. Shaping can be done after the inletting is done. Is that right, or should I use some other sequence of events? :hmm:
Looking for suggestions
- Thread starter Pork Chop
- Start date
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When starting with a block the primary advantage is that you have flat sides. This makes it somewhat easier. The drilling of holes for pining thimbles and lock bolts is much easier. My way of thinking is what you stated in the right order, Barrel, lock, trigger, then drill Tang and lock bolts. You may want to run your ramrod channel, then butt plate and thimbles. Then shape your wood. and remember to measure twice, or thrice, then think about it, then cut or drill. Take your time and keep asking questions, about how to before, rather than how to fix after an oops. Just :m2c: worth. Bill
My neighbor has a very nice cheery tree that he is going to cut down. The wind has been very bad and he is afraid of it falling on his house.It's at least 3 feet at the base and as straight as an arrow about 30 to 40 feet up. Just my guessing. I haven't measured it. Some one was telling him he should sell it for vinere.
I want a piece of it to build a future rifle. I know I can get more then one stock out a piece that big, you don't find nice wood like this so close to home and the owner is willing to give a piece of it to me. I am thinking 5-1/2 to 6 foot in lenght. Does it matter where it is cut from? Is it better to have the first 6 foot from the base, or can I get a nice stock from the tree further up. Sorry to ask on your thread, but I thouht is was a good segwey.
I can store it in a nice controled envirement and have it cut to order for a small charge.
I want a piece of it to build a future rifle. I know I can get more then one stock out a piece that big, you don't find nice wood like this so close to home and the owner is willing to give a piece of it to me. I am thinking 5-1/2 to 6 foot in lenght. Does it matter where it is cut from? Is it better to have the first 6 foot from the base, or can I get a nice stock from the tree further up. Sorry to ask on your thread, but I thouht is was a good segwey.
I can store it in a nice controled envirement and have it cut to order for a small charge.
If you cut it yourself , it would be great
if you could take either de base of the stump
or the beginning of the biggest branche so the
curve in the wood grain follow the bend in the stock.
In older time , boat builders choose the trees
so those curves could be used in different parts
of the boat,.
But do not over do it with the branche section , those
are know to contain some " reaction wood " that may
warp later on ,
The sooner possible after cutting , I mean minutes ,
seal the end of the logs to prevent splitting
because the ends would dry much faster than the
mid section . The industrial product is best but
only sold by the barrel , parafin is good , latex paint
is better than nothing .
if you could take either de base of the stump
or the beginning of the biggest branche so the
curve in the wood grain follow the bend in the stock.
In older time , boat builders choose the trees
so those curves could be used in different parts
of the boat,.
But do not over do it with the branche section , those
are know to contain some " reaction wood " that may
warp later on ,
The sooner possible after cutting , I mean minutes ,
seal the end of the logs to prevent splitting
because the ends would dry much faster than the
mid section . The industrial product is best but
only sold by the barrel , parafin is good , latex paint
is better than nothing .
Guest
And if you can, get your piece from the center of the tree, hard old growth and quartersawn for even shrinkage. :redthumb:
Pork Chop, why not just start assembling the needed parts to make a gun? Keep the Bobcat as a standby. That way, if you feel like going to the range to blow off some steam, you've got a rifle. You've already got a major part out of the way and everybody here (I assume) would be more than willing to help you out.....If you need a good deal on a barrel, let me know.
Thanks Just a few more questions
Should I strip off the bark right away, or leave it on the piece?
I have a dry basement, with low huminity and a very steady tempeture. Or is it better to lift it off the ground and let it air dry for a couple of years?
I have access to a band saw and could slice it up right away. 2-1/2 inchs thick is what I have read.
Should I strip off the bark right away, or leave it on the piece?
I have a dry basement, with low huminity and a very steady tempeture. Or is it better to lift it off the ground and let it air dry for a couple of years?
I have access to a band saw and could slice it up right away. 2-1/2 inchs thick is what I have read.
If you're cutting it the bark will be gone. if not, debark it. Just a place for insects to live and rot to start. I would cut it 3" thick to allow for warpage.
Guest
I agree with Rich P. Rough cut your planks to 3" for the drying process. When they have reached the proper moisture content they can be planed to 2 1/2" and you can lay :m2c
ut your pattern on them. Definately seal the end grain to minimize checking.
ut your pattern on them. Definately seal the end grain to minimize checking.Blahman,
That is good thinking, but I am ahead of you. I have an Investarms Hawken that my father and I built back in the early 80's. He never shot it, but I have done so recently. I have it to go shoot whenever I can find the time. The entire purpose of the Bobcat was to restock it and make something of a companion for Dad's gun.
Oh, back when we built the Hawken, Dad got me a CVA Philadelphia Derringer. We built it, but the triggerguard broke while being fitted. Dad never got a replacement. I got one and fitted it - looks good! I just need to put the tennon plates on it (inletted of course) and oil finish the stock and it is done. In the intervening years, I built another of those as a nostalgic thing as I thought I wasn't getting Dad's guns. I was happy when I did end up with almost all of them (didn't get a 12gauge pump and a CVA Kentucky gun that had no sentimental value anyway) and just recently decided to finish what we began 20 years ago...
If you have suggestions on the stock - cast off, drop, cheek piece, shape, etc - feel free to post them! :redthumb:
That is good thinking, but I am ahead of you. I have an Investarms Hawken that my father and I built back in the early 80's. He never shot it, but I have done so recently. I have it to go shoot whenever I can find the time. The entire purpose of the Bobcat was to restock it and make something of a companion for Dad's gun.
Oh, back when we built the Hawken, Dad got me a CVA Philadelphia Derringer. We built it, but the triggerguard broke while being fitted. Dad never got a replacement. I got one and fitted it - looks good! I just need to put the tennon plates on it (inletted of course) and oil finish the stock and it is done. In the intervening years, I built another of those as a nostalgic thing as I thought I wasn't getting Dad's guns. I was happy when I did end up with almost all of them (didn't get a 12gauge pump and a CVA Kentucky gun that had no sentimental value anyway) and just recently decided to finish what we began 20 years ago...
If you have suggestions on the stock - cast off, drop, cheek piece, shape, etc - feel free to post them! :redthumb:
