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Looking into my first muzzleloader

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EastoftheBay

32 Cal
Joined
Oct 22, 2022
Messages
24
Reaction score
12
Location
Queenstown, Maryland
Hello everyone, I am new to forum and have been reading lots of cool stuff posted here. This of got the wheels turning about choosing my first muzzleloader. I guess I should say that I have never owned a muzzleloader. I also have never hunted with one as I either use a recurve bow or a shotgun. That being said I want to get into it but I have no idea which muzzleloader will suit me best. I know for a fact I want a flintlock. Flintlocks have always amazed me and the all the sparks are cool. I have read here that there is a learning curve due to sparks in your face and not flinching but I will learn and but in the time. Time to ask the big question though, do I go rifle or smoothbore? Or just buy one of each ? On the farm we have Deer, Turkey, Rabbit, Squirrel and other small game in plentiful amount and we hunt the full season. We also have a coyote problem and we also hunt ducks and geese. That being said Deer is the main hunted animal and I would like to tailor most of my choice towards that. On the farm most shots I have ever taken were no more than 40 yards with my shotgun which is single shot smoothbore and fires slugs. However I do want to go to at least 60 to 75 yards. I have seen on here people getting good with smoothbores and making 80-100 yard shots consistently. I typically hunt from the ground either behind some logs, in a ditch or by a tree, with only some blind or stand hunting. Lowest legal caliber for a rifle here in Maryland is .40 caliber and 60 grains of powder. What caliber should I choose ? Also what rifle or smoothbore should I choose ? I have seen rifles on here of all different types and to be honest there are a few that rouse my attention. The Jaeger and the Longrifle catch my eye the most for the rifles while the Fusil and the trade gun catch my eye for the smoothbores. Also if anyone has any tips for where I can buy blackpowder, the best cleaning supplies and other muzzleloading related things I might need it would greatly appreciated. I asked some people at the local gun shop and they didnt know anything about flintlocks. Thanks in advance for any information given to this thread as it really helps. Reading posts on this forum I learn something, then I find something that contradicts it and I get confused lol.
 
Hello everyone, I am new to forum and have been reading lots of cool stuff posted here. This of got the wheels turning about choosing my first muzzleloader. I guess I should say that I have never owned a muzzleloader. I also have never hunted with one as I either use a recurve bow or a shotgun. That being said I want to get into it but I have no idea which muzzleloader will suit me best. I know for a fact I want a flintlock. Flintlocks have always amazed me and the all the sparks are cool. I have read here that there is a learning curve due to sparks in your face and not flinching but I will learn and but in the time. Time to ask the big question though, do I go rifle or smoothbore? Or just buy one of each ? On the farm we have Deer, Turkey, Rabbit, Squirrel and other small game in plentiful amount and we hunt the full season. We also have a coyote problem and we also hunt ducks and geese. That being said Deer is the main hunted animal and I would like to tailor most of my choice towards that. On the farm most shots I have ever taken were no more than 40 yards with my shotgun which is single shot smoothbore and fires slugs. However I do want to go to at least 60 to 75 yards. I have seen on here people getting good with smoothbores and making 80-100 yard shots consistently. I typically hunt from the ground either behind some logs, in a ditch or by a tree, with only some blind or stand hunting. Lowest legal caliber for a rifle here in Maryland is .40 caliber and 60 grains of powder. What caliber should I choose ? Also what rifle or smoothbore should I choose ? I have seen rifles on here of all different types and to be honest there are a few that rouse my attention. The Jaeger and the Longrifle catch my eye the most for the rifles while the Fusil and the trade gun catch my eye for the smoothbores. Also if anyone has any tips for where I can buy blackpowder, the best cleaning supplies and other muzzleloading related things I might need it would greatly appreciated. I asked some people at the local gun shop and they didnt know anything about flintlocks. Thanks in advance for any information given to this thread as it really helps. Reading posts on this forum I learn something, then I find something that contradicts it and I get confused lol.
First, welcome to the forum and you made a good choice asking a question in this thread. Secondly, I live in Price right up 301 from you also on a farm and hunt the same animals. My first muzzleloader was a Smoothbore. Its a .75 caliber (11 gauge) British Brown Bess Musket made by Pedersoli. I do not reccommend this as a first muzzleloader btw. I have hunted with it almost exclusively and have taken 8 Deer, 3 Turkey, 6 Coyote, 4 Geese, 10 Ducks and enough squirrels to make a smoking jacket with slippers to match. That being said smoothbores take a lot of work to get right. It took me a full year to consistently hit on or around bullseye with about a 3-4" group at 75 yards and now three years later I can do that at 125 yards consistently. I am going to break down smoothbores first and then rifles. Firstly, most smoothbores only have a front sight typically a blade although some have a bead like your shotgun that you're used using. However some smoothbores have a rear sight and all can have a rear sight added to them. A rear sight helps you focus the aim better and hit the target more consistently. Secondly, Smoothbores come in about 9 different calibers. They are .78(10 gauge), .75(11 gauge), .72(12 gauge), .66(16 gauge), .62(20 gauge), .58 (24 gauge), .56(26 gauge), .54(28gauge) and .50(36 gauge). The prominent ones are12,16, 20 and 24. These smoothbores may also be reffered to as "Smoothrifles". Since you want to hunt deer and small game I would suggest 16, 20 or 24 gauge although 28 does the job as well. 16 and 20 will do best against those kevlar feathered geese in the winter. I would personally suggest not exceeding a barrel length of 44" as at that point you'll have a cumbersome log. Personally an all around smoothbore imo would be 38-42" weighing in at no more than 6-8lbs in 16 gauge or 20 gauge. I would also add a rear sight to the desired firearm. I'm currently building a cherry stocked, 44" barrel 16 gauge club butt, full stock "fowler" (another term for smoothbores) which I will be installing a rear sight on. This all being said a smoothbore will reliably (after you've trained on it) send a patched round ball into its intended target at 50-75 yards everytime with ease. You can also fire shot from the barrel allowing you to take birds and game. Moving on to the rifles, you mentioned an interest in Jäger(Jaeger)Rifles and Longrifles. Jaegers typically have a barrel length no greater than 32" (the American Jaeger goes to 38" I believe) but I assume you mean a European style Jaeger rifle. Most Jaegers have 31" barrels and are .54 caliber to .62 caliber and can be quite handy although some weigh out like a brick. These rifles are best for thickets and brush as well as blinds and stands as they are short. The Longrifle however is a different story. The rifles typically go from .32 caliber to .62 caliber these days and have a 38" to 53" barrel. Most common for Deer hunting are .40, .44, .45, .50, .54, .58, .62 and barrel lengths are most common in 38", 40", 42", 44" and 46". These rifles typically weigh 6-9lbs and come in a vareity of styles like Lancaster, Leigh Valley, Southern Mountain, Virginia, Maryland, Ohio, Carolina, Kentucky and Tennessee Long rifles to name the few I know lol. These rifles are best for off hand shooting (ground hunting) as they have a lot of balance due to their length, they are also long so need to be used with planned movements in thick brush and thickets or else you get all hung up. My Bess has a 41" barrel and I move through the brush easily. I would go no larger than .54 caliber as its not needed for the Eastern Shore of Maryland. To be honest I would get a .50 or .54 if you are going to also get a smoothbore. If you only want one then I would go with .40, .44, .45 and .50 caliber. As the smaller calibers can be used on game. As for the remainder of your questions. GOEX will be making powder soon in the mean time I reccommend Schutzen powder from Schuetzen Black Powder - Graf & Sons . If going with a smoothbore or a .50/.54 caliber than go with 2F or FF powder and if going for a smaller rifle like .40, .44 and .45 go with 3F or FFF. Cleaning supplies can be as simple as dish soap and hot water or oils like Ballistol, Hoppe's No.9 and Thompson Center Oil. WD-40 also works but it isnt a favorite here for some people. Once you find a desired caliber get some patches balls and shot. Forgot to mention DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT use steel shot in a muzzleloader. I reccommend using Bismuth as its non toxic and soft on the bore so I can be used on waterfowl and game alike. Hope this helps ya out.
 
Good morning - and, welcome aboard ! :)

IMO, if you want a double duty gun, a rocklock smoothie is the way to go.

A rifle might be a tad better, accuracy-wise than a smoothie.

If you'll do a thread search here, there's some threads about getting started with muzzleloading, and the particulars about essential accessories.

.
 
Sounds like a smoothbore would be the best first option if you were only going to buy one. Better quality guns with good locks will have a much shorter learning curve. That way you just have to learn and not fight the lock.

Were you looking for a kit or a finished firearm? .50 cal stuff is easiest to find starting out usually but is not the best choice for smaller game. Cleaning is easy as really water and a good rust preventative will take care of it. There are other concoctions but it doesn't have to be that way. Personally I clean with ballistol/water mix.

Finding powder can be very hit and miss lately and most people have to order it anyways. Best to order a large quantity to offset the cost of hazmat. Black powder Substitutes won't do it.

What is your price range? We should probably start with narrowing down your choice of weapon.
 
First, welcome to the forum and you made a good choice asking a question in this thread. Secondly, I live in Price right up 301 from you also on a farm and hunt the same animals. My first muzzleloader was a Smoothbore. Its a .75 caliber (11 gauge) British Brown Bess Musket made by Pedersoli. I do not reccommend this as a first muzzleloader btw. I have hunted with it almost exclusively and have taken 8 Deer, 3 Turkey, 6 Coyote, 4 Geese, 10 Ducks and enough squirrels to make a smoking jacket with slippers to match. That being said smoothbores take a lot of work to get right. It took me a full year to consistently hit on or around bullseye with about a 3-4" group at 75 yards and now three years later I can do that at 125 yards consistently. I am going to break down smoothbores first and then rifles. Firstly, most smoothbores only have a front sight typically a blade although some have a bead like your shotgun that you're used using. However some smoothbores have a rear sight and all can have a rear sight added to them. A rear sight helps you focus the aim better and hit the target more consistently. Secondly, Smoothbores come in about 9 different calibers. They are .78(10 gauge), .75(11 gauge), .72(12 gauge), .66(16 gauge), .62(20 gauge), .58 (24 gauge), .56(26 gauge), .54(28gauge) and .50(36 gauge). The prominent ones are12,16, 20 and 24. These smoothbores may also be reffered to as "Smoothrifles". Since you want to hunt deer and small game I would suggest 16, 20 or 24 gauge although 28 does the job as well. 16 and 20 will do best against those kevlar feathered geese in the winter. I would personally suggest not exceeding a barrel length of 44" as at that point you'll have a cumbersome log. Personally an all around smoothbore imo would be 38-42" weighing in at no more than 6-8lbs in 16 gauge or 20 gauge. I would also add a rear sight to the desired firearm. I'm currently building a cherry stocked, 44" barrel 16 gauge club butt, full stock "fowler" (another term for smoothbores) which I will be installing a rear sight on. This all being said a smoothbore will reliably (after you've trained on it) send a patched round ball into its intended target at 50-75 yards everytime with ease. You can also fire shot from the barrel allowing you to take birds and game. Moving on to the rifles, you mentioned an interest in Jäger(Jaeger)Rifles and Longrifles. Jaegers typically have a barrel length no greater than 32" (the American Jaeger goes to 38" I believe) but I assume you mean a European style Jaeger rifle. Most Jaegers have 31" barrels and are .54 caliber to .62 caliber and can be quite handy although some weigh out like a brick. These rifles are best for thickets and brush as well as blinds and stands as they are short. The Longrifle however is a different story. The rifles typically go from .32 caliber to .62 caliber these days and have a 38" to 53" barrel. Most common for Deer hunting are .40, .44, .45, .50, .54, .58, .62 and barrel lengths are most common in 38", 40", 42", 44" and 46". These rifles typically weigh 6-9lbs and come in a vareity of styles like Lancaster, Leigh Valley, Southern Mountain, Virginia, Maryland, Ohio, Carolina, Kentucky and Tennessee Long rifles to name the few I know lol. These rifles are best for off hand shooting (ground hunting) as they have a lot of balance due to their length, they are also long so need to be used with planned movements in thick brush and thickets or else you get all hung up. My Bess has a 41" barrel and I move through the brush easily. I would go no larger than .54 caliber as its not needed for the Eastern Shore of Maryland. To be honest I would get a .50 or .54 if you are going to also get a smoothbore. If you only want one then I would go with .40, .44, .45 and .50 caliber. As the smaller calibers can be used on game. As for the remainder of your questions. GOEX will be making powder soon in the mean time I reccommend Schutzen powder from Schuetzen Black Powder - Graf & Sons . If going with a smoothbore or a .50/.54 caliber than go with 2F or FF powder and if going for a smaller rifle like .40, .44 and .45 go with 3F or FFF. Cleaning supplies can be as simple as dish soap and hot water or oils like Ballistol, Hoppe's No.9 and Thompson Center Oil. WD-40 also works but it isnt a favorite here for some people. Once you find a desired caliber get some patches balls and shot. Forgot to mention DO NOT, I repeat DO NOT use steel shot in a muzzleloader. I reccommend using Bismuth as its non toxic and soft on the bore so I can be used on waterfowl and game alike. Hope this helps ya out.
Wow thanks for all the info, I actually printed this so that I have it as a reference sheet thanks for the help.
 
Sounds like a smoothbore would be the best first option if you were only going to buy one. Better quality guns with good locks will have a much shorter learning curve. That way you just have to learn and not fight the lock.

Were you looking for a kit or a finished firearm? .50 cal stuff is easiest to find starting out usually but is not the best choice for smaller game. Cleaning is easy as really water and a good rust preventative will take care of it. There are other concoctions but it doesn't have to be that way. Personally I clean with ballistol/water mix.

Finding powder can be very hit and miss lately and most people have to order it anyways. Best to order a large quantity to offset the cost of hazmat. Black powder Substitutes won't do it.

What is your price range? We should probably start with narrowing down your choice of weapon.
Never really considered a kit or a finished firearm. I assume I would want a finished firearm as I have no experience with a kit or putting a kit rifle together. I do have a good amount of money saved up but have no clue what the price range should be set at before going way to high. I guess I would set my range at no higher than $1800~$2000. I saw Pedersoli was expensive so I saved up money to buy one but after seeing the Pedersoli guns in person I dont like them. I also dont like the look of the Traditions rifles either they look like Walmart wood furniture compared to what some of you guys have here on the forum. I still dont know If I want a rifle or a smoothbore.
 
Welcome to the website. Whatever you decide make sure you get a quality gun with quality components and especially the lock. Chambers and Kibler locks are my choice. If your handy I'd suggest a Kibler SMR kit or the Colonial. Supplies are available from Track of the Wolf. Good luck.
 
When choosing a flint lock firearm, success is all about the lock and the Kibler and Chamber's locks are right there at the top list for selection. The least expensive flint lock arms can be made to work, but I hesitate to recommend one for someone absolutely new to flint locks. Even the Kibler and Chambers locks can use a little bit of polishing on the mating parts. Perhaps a good used flint lock smooth bored fowling gun in 20 gauge that @EastoftheBay can install a rear sight. As far as calibers and gauges go, be sure to check the hunting requirements for your state. There are minimums as well as restrictions on the use of lead shot for shooting birds.

I would agree with @58 Caliber that the Kibler Colonial kit with a 58 caliber smoothbore barrel would be an excellent first flint lock. Because of his manufacturing process a rifled barrel could be purchased later for much less than the cost of a second rifle.

You will be able to use 3Fg real black powder for the main charge and the priming charge. No need to find 4F powder or grind powder to make pan powder. But do use real black powder, no substitute back powder.
 
When choosing a flint lock firearm, success is all about the lock and the Kibler and Chamber's locks are right there at the top list for selection. The least expensive flint lock arms can be made to work, but I hesitate to recommend one for someone absolutely new to flint locks. Even the Kibler and Chambers locks can use a little bit of polishing on the mating parts. Perhaps a good used flint lock smooth bored fowling gun in 20 gauge that @EastoftheBay can install a rear sight. As far as calibers and gauges go, be sure to check the hunting requirements for your state. There are minimums as well as restrictions on the use of lead shot for shooting birds.

I would agree with @58 Caliber that the Kibler Colonial kit with a 58 caliber smoothbore barrel would be an excellent first flint lock. Because of his manufacturing process a rifled barrel could be purchased later for much less than the cost of a second rifle.

You will be able to use 3Fg real black powder for the main charge and the priming charge. No need to find 4F powder or grind powder to make pan powder. But do use real black powder, no substitute back powder.
Does the smoothbore .58 caliber/24 gauge make a good smoothbore for Turkey and Waterfowl ? Assuming you live in the U.S. or a part of the world with animals as such or similar ?
 
The Log Cabin M/L Shop has a good inexpensive catalog , and the folks there are very helpful. They have a good web site to contact them by phone ,too. They have about anything needed , and an on site gunsmith. They're in North East , Ohio..
 
Hello everyone, I am new to forum and have been reading lots of cool stuff posted here. This of got the wheels turning about choosing my first muzzleloader. I guess I should say that I have never owned a muzzleloader. I also have never hunted with one as I either use a recurve bow or a shotgun. That being said I want to get into it but I have no idea which muzzleloader will suit me best. I know for a fact I want a flintlock. Flintlocks have always amazed me and the all the sparks are cool. I have read here that there is a learning curve due to sparks in your face and not flinching but I will learn and but in the time. Time to ask the big question though, do I go rifle or smoothbore? Or just buy one of each ? On the farm we have Deer, Turkey, Rabbit, Squirrel and other small game in plentiful amount and we hunt the full season. We also have a coyote problem and we also hunt ducks and geese. That being said Deer is the main hunted animal and I would like to tailor most of my choice towards that. On the farm most shots I have ever taken were no more than 40 yards with my shotgun which is single shot smoothbore and fires slugs. However I do want to go to at least 60 to 75 yards. I have seen on here people getting good with smoothbores and making 80-100 yard shots consistently. I typically hunt from the ground either behind some logs, in a ditch or by a tree, with only some blind or stand hunting. Lowest legal caliber for a rifle here in Maryland is .40 caliber and 60 grains of powder. What caliber should I choose ? Also what rifle or smoothbore should I choose ? I have seen rifles on here of all different types and to be honest there are a few that rouse my attention. The Jaeger and the Longrifle catch my eye the most for the rifles while the Fusil and the trade gun catch my eye for the smoothbores. Also if anyone has any tips for where I can buy blackpowder, the best cleaning supplies and other muzzleloading related things I might need it would greatly appreciated. I asked some people at the local gun shop and they didnt know anything about flintlocks. Thanks in advance for any information given to this thread as it really helps. Reading posts on this forum I learn something, then I find something that contradicts it and I get confused lol.
Talk to Jim KIbler about a rifle done in the white, he will put it together and you finish it.
 
East of the Bay, welcome to this incredible family of ‘old flints’. I just finished a .40 Cal Kibler SMR Flint lock rifle. Sold a Colonial Kibler here earlier. I actually intended to keep this one cause it is light, balances great, can be used on so many different animals as well as a standout on the target range but i am so in love with the process of building these amazing pieces of history, I thought i would offer it to you. Then buy another and build it. What do you think?
 
East of the Bay, welcome to this incredible family of ‘old flints’. I just finished a .40 Cal Kibler SMR Flint lock rifle. Sold a Colonial Kibler here earlier. I actually intended to keep this one cause it is light, balances great, can be used on so many different animals as well as a standout on the target range but i am so in love with the process of building these amazing pieces of history, I thought i would offer it to you. Then buy another and build it. What do you think?
Could you send some pictures to me ? Sorry for the late reply.
 
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