EastoftheBay
32 Cal
What would I need more of after the .40 or .45 and the "Trade Gun" ? Also I assume a trade gun is a smoothbore ?A flintlock rifle in 40-45 cal for smaller stuff and a tradegun for everything else.
You need more
What would I need more of after the .40 or .45 and the "Trade Gun" ? Also I assume a trade gun is a smoothbore ?A flintlock rifle in 40-45 cal for smaller stuff and a tradegun for everything else.
You need more
First off that is a pretty rifle, secondly I have never held a true long rifle before but wow are those things "long" rifles when you see them in contrast to a table or things in their vicinity. Do you have a price in mind for this rifle ?It’s OK EastoftheBay. I don’t think anyone is in a rush on this forum, just straight talk and helpful. This build was a special kit from Jim Kibler with a slightly blemished Fancy Maple stock. The barrel is 44” long, the caliber is .40 special build, the weight is approximately 7 lbs. my purpose was to build a working southern mountain rifle. The stock is soft, used finish as well as the iron elements. I can gloss up the stock for you if you desire or you can tinker with it and dress it up or distress down. By the way, i can fire it if you like or let you be the first to fire it. I personally feel you and the rifle gain a more personal relationship if you are the first soul to engage with the life of the rifle and you are the first soul the rifle engages with. Esperance!
I think he meant to say you wont need more than those two. I also would air on the side of caution with a .40 caliber rifle. If you havent seen a .40 caliber roundball then you should look them up. They are quite small coming in at only 93 grains at .395" and 83 grains at .380". Most of your smallest caliber rifles are at least 125 grains to 158 grains. If I were you I would get a .45 caliber as those round balls of .440" are 128 grains and .445" 132 grains. That will give you better knockdown on deer and more swift harvests. Also how thick is your deer woods ? If you are makin shots on deer in thick woods larger balls do better. If you take shots onto an open field or a clear area thats a different story. If I were you I would get a Kibler SMR in .45 cal and a Kibler Colonial in .58 Smooth or a .62 cal folwer your choice.What would I need more of after the .40 or .45 and the "Trade Gun" ? Also I assume a trade gun is a smoothbore ?
I agree with your opinion Murphinator. I just got my first doe with my .45 cal Thompson Center Hawken Flinter I picked up back in August. I practiced for three months and got my load set up. I was getting good groups on the target. Then that first deer walked in front of me and I got the rush of adrenaline. The shot still hit the lungs but it ran 40 yards before it dropped. I was using a conical of around 220 grains which I think may be to blame as it did punch through. Either way If I had shot a round ball or something smaller like .40 caliber I think I would've wounded the deer or it would have ran 75-80 yards.I think he meant to say you wont need more than those two. I also would air on the side of caution with a .40 caliber rifle. If you havent seen a .40 caliber roundball then you should look them up. They are quite small coming in at only 93 grains at .395" and 83 grains at .380". Most of your smallest caliber rifles are at least 125 grains to 158 grains. If I were you I would get a .45 caliber as those round balls of .440" are 128 grains and .445" 132 grains. That will give you better knockdown on deer and more swift harvests. Also how thick is your deer woods ? If you are makin shots on deer in thick woods larger balls do better. If you take shots onto an open field or a clear area thats a different story. If I were you I would get a Kibler SMR in .45 cal and a Kibler Colonial in .58 Smooth or a .62 cal folwer your choice.
I'm assuming he meant you will want more guns after acquiring these. It's a "sickness" among Muzzleloaders (and any other firearm owners, for that matter). You just got to have more.What would I need more of after the .40 or .45 and the "Trade Gun" ? Also I assume a trade gun is a smoothbore ?
I may get some muzzleloading pistols and a percussion or flintlock SxS shotgun one day, for now one or two will suffice. I only own one firearm so I guess I still have room.I'm assuming he meant you will want more guns after acquiring these. It's a "sickness" among Muzzleloaders (and any other firearm owners, for that matter). You just got to have more.
Ok I will give some thought still trying to decide on what caliber I want. Thank you for reaching out and the quick replies.Perfect vent hole position…wow!!! It sparks plenty my cost $1200.00 plus a modest builder fee of $300.00 plus shipping (which includes solid wood shipping crate) = $1500.00 ish
Thanks for the adviceWelcome to the forum. Being mostly a rifleman, myself, I recommend a rifle in .45 caliber as an all around shooting/hunting rig. Most of my deer have fallen to a .45. Every one needed only one shot and I never lost one. Later a nice smoothbore like a trade gun or double is a good move. You WILL, not may, but WILL end up with more of them.
First; Welcome to the forum and my condolences....condolences for the fact that you are about to be forever Abducted into the black arts of those terrifying Flintlock thing-a-mabobs!Never really considered a kit or a finished firearm. I assume I would want a finished firearm as I have no experience with a kit or putting a kit rifle together. I do have a good amount of money saved up but have no clue what the price range should be set at before going way to high. I guess I would set my range at no higher than $1800~$2000. I saw Pedersoli was expensive so I saved up money to buy one but after seeing the Pedersoli guns in person I dont like them. I also dont like the look of the Traditions rifles either they look like Walmart wood furniture compared to what some of you guys have here on the forum. I still dont know If I want a rifle or a smoothbore.
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