Loose BP Gun.

[3 stinky dogs]

My first ML is this pistole I baught for twenty bucks.It shoots but the flint wont stay tight and the lock screws get loose.I flattend out a ball and it helps some and I thatght about lock tight for the lock screws But to be able to remove the lock for cleaning.It is .45 cal and I shoot .45 grains of Goex 3f's.It cant be a stout load as i was told a good starting load is what ever the cal is to just ues that manry grains of powder.The screws are in good shape and for the most part it shoots good until the 3rd shot and then the losk is loose enugh that it wont fire.This is my first ml and it may be junk but I would like to continue shooting it if it could be safly done.Any info is aperceated.

 

[MikeChapin]

I've never had the lock screws come loose if they were snugged in. I wonder if they are just worn. Try another lock bolt the same size and thread and see what happens.

As for load, I just use 15 grains in my CVA .45s. Off the bench they both will print inch groups even though the barrels are rough as cobs.

 

[vradin]

I learned that the 1 grain per caliber works for long guns, but is likely too stout a charge for pistols. Try a 3 or 4 to 1 for the pistol- start at 10 and move up slightly from there.

If the flint isn't staying tight, check the leather padding. I used smooth garment leather this past sumer and it just would NOT hold worth a tinker's dam. When I switched to a scrap of suede (rough both sides) it held perfectly with just finger tightening on the thing.

Also check the loading manual or guide if you have one, max loads should be in there. Some of the modern repros I've seen have max loads engraved on the barrel too.

vic

 

[Zonie]

"...but the flint wont stay tight and the lock screws get loose...."
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You didn't say what your using to hold the flint in place.
If it's just clamped between the top and bottom jaws, that could be your problem.

The flint should have a piece of leather wrapped around it (top, back and bottom) so the jaws are actually clamping on the leather. I used to use some real thin leather (1/32) but that never seemed to work very well. When I cut up an old belt (1/16+ thick) that solved my problems.

Some people use lead on the top and bottom of the flint, but the times I've tried this, after a few shots, the lead seems to deform and allow the flint to move.

As for the lock screws coming loose, as others have said, the problem may be the screws are worn out.
Many of these inexpensive guns are made in Spain, and their screws leave a lot to be desired.
If the gun was made in Spain (or any European country) they will be Metric threads so don't try to force a American screw into them.
I would suggest that you take the lock to a place like Ace or True Value and match up their metric screws with your lock by screwing them in.

 

[WV_Hillbilly]

If the gun was made in Spain (or any European country) they will be Metric threads so don't try to force a American screw into them.
I would suggest that you take the lock to a place like Ace or True Value and match up their metric screws with your lock by screwing them in.

I noticed also at my local Ace Hardware that they have a couple of nice little fixtures setup in the store, that have various thread size bolts & nuts, in both SAE and Metric, for customers to bring in their unknown size hardware and check it against these standards. That's a pretty neat and smart idea too.

Also there are a couple of SAE and Metric thread sizes that are very very close and you're right about forcing in the wrong one, as it will re-cut the threads sometimes to the wrong size... and then there's real trouble later on.

Shoot Safely!
WV_Hillbilly