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Lubing lee molds

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barebackjack

40 Cal.
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Hey all,

Just got a new double lee roundball mold. The instructions state to use their bullet lube to lube her up before pouring. Are there any other substances you all use to accomplish this?

Thanks

boone
 
Do you mean the hinge and sprue plate joint" Yes I use it there but the mould cavity you should smoke with a candle for an easy release.
Be sure to heat the mould up before you start to cast, lead that is pored on a cold mould makes a hell of a mess to get off.
 
Make dang sure you don't have any lube or anything else in the mold cavity or you'll get crappy bullets until it burns off. You can use a bit of candle was once the mold is heated up to keep things "lubed" but other then that dry is the way to go. :thumbsup:
 
I got a Lee double 54 cal mould and smoked it.It just wouldn't cast a good ball until I removed the smoke.
 
barebackjack said:
Hey all,

Just got a new double lee roundball mold. The instructions state to use their bullet lube to lube her up before pouring. Are there any other substances you all use to accomplish this?

Thanks

boone

I ruined a Lee mold due to lack of lubrication. After talking to one of the Lee customer service reps, he suggested I use anti-sieze on my molds.It is designed to use on bolts/nuts so as not to corrode together. I've been using it for a while with no problems. Use an old coal oil lamp to black the ineer surfaces of your mold.By the way Lee replaced my mold at no charge, and I told them it was ruined due to my own negligence, Reckon that's why I own 6 or 8 of their molds. Great products at a great price.
 
eph289 said:
I got a Lee double 54 cal mould and smoked it.It just wouldn't cast a good ball until I removed the smoke.

Remember that you need only the slightest color from the smoke to lube the mold. many keep at it till the interior is jet black, which might have been a problem you described. Like some other things, a little goes a long way!
 
I use a graphite-based dry lubricant that comes in a spray can. It seems to work very well with my .535 ball mold and my .54 double R.E.A.L. conical mold. I give the mold halves a thorough spray while cold then let the solvent evaporate, then warm the mold in the liquid casting metal as per Lee instructions. My conicals in particular turn out very nicely when I use wheel weight metal. I just got 13 lbs. of pure lead so I will be trying that shortly.
 
I got info from Lee says use pure lead for the REAL slug, you use wheel weights?
What lube do you use?
I been casting pure lead slugs for my BP revolvers (Lee mould) and can say Lee mouilds are a good product.
 
I read that in the Lee instructions too but all I could get on short notice was wheel weights so that is what I have been using. For a shooting lube I use a concoction I made from lanolin, beeswax, and safflower oil. I use it on both patches and bullets and it seems to be working quite well as long as I don't use too much (i.e. almost none). The only lube I use on the molds is that spray-graphite stuff and it seems to work really well too. All my bullets come out well formed and shiny, although I have to rap on the molds with a piece of wood a few times to get them to fall out. I found a few of my spent rounds in the sandpile I shoot into and I think I would get better expansion if I used pure lead. The noses are just barely rounded and I can barely make out the rifling marks on them as it is.
 
I like shooting the REAL slugs but my slow twist barrel seems to do better with regular patched balls. I think perhaps the slugs are just a little too heavy and do not fly well unless I put at least 80 grains of FFg Goex down the barrel. I shoot almost entirely off-hand so it is difficult for me to tell if inaccuracies are coming from the gun, the loads, or from me. Gotta build a bench so I can get ready for deer/bear season!
 
You will do better with pure lead, and try a overpowder felt or fiber wad/pad. I started using them and my groups tightened up noticable, this with PRB
 
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