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Lyman Deerstalker
- Thread starter DEPUTY346
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rodwha
58 Cal.
Since when did owning land dictate how deer behave?
You sure do love moving discussions off topic and down into some low level smear tactic or character assassination. You'd fit in well with the women here in Lakeway. They love to create drama too.
You sure do love moving discussions off topic and down into some low level smear tactic or character assassination. You'd fit in well with the women here in Lakeway. They love to create drama too.
Zonie said:
I can't remember when Sharp wrote his book, but it was after the M 1 was adopted. He didn't mention Tung oil allergies.
I Googled Tung oil, and there were a lot of questions like "Is Tung oil dangerous to my kid who has a peanut allergy?" etc. What seemed the consensus is it MAY be before it dries. It comes from a nut, and those with nut allergies should be wary. It MAY be slightly contaminated with peanuts in the shelling process. And we all know the allergic reactions to trace amounts of peanuts with those with allergies.
I also found out that Tung is a better protectant than Linseed oil, which according to the research, never quite dries 100%. Thinned Tung penetrates farther and dries out. Might change my mind on using it.
Also, and what I think is most important is Tung oil sold in the US may not be Tung oil. In fact, it may not have any Tung oil in it.
So read the labels.
rodwha
58 Cal.
Why would one want to associate with one who does nothing but backbite?
Outside of match shooting with your revolvers you don't seem to offer anything but rabbit holes into drama.
Outside of match shooting with your revolvers you don't seem to offer anything but rabbit holes into drama.
Geez, let him stay inside, sorry I mentioned it, was LOL'ing when I responded.
Anyway, I have never had a muzzle loader stock damaged by water. My ol boss n me once dunked in the pond and he had to leave his rem 1100 (first time out) in the water 24 hrs in order to save me. When they recovered, he cleaned it, oiled it, lemon oiled the stock and the gun had but a tinny tiny swelling like crack where it meets the receiver. Guess it depends on the tree n the finish n finisher?
Anyway, I have never had a muzzle loader stock damaged by water. My ol boss n me once dunked in the pond and he had to leave his rem 1100 (first time out) in the water 24 hrs in order to save me. When they recovered, he cleaned it, oiled it, lemon oiled the stock and the gun had but a tinny tiny swelling like crack where it meets the receiver. Guess it depends on the tree n the finish n finisher?
rodwha
58 Cal.
I much prefer Reese's peanut butter cups.
- Joined
- Jan 31, 2009
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Over powder or smeared in front of each ball?
Sorry, couldn't resist.
About trying to make your stock as rain-proof as you can, there are wood finishing products on the market specifically formulated for outdoors weather protection. It won't have molecules to replicate 1800's chemistry but hey, you can either have great taste or less filling.
Sorry, couldn't resist.
About trying to make your stock as rain-proof as you can, there are wood finishing products on the market specifically formulated for outdoors weather protection. It won't have molecules to replicate 1800's chemistry but hey, you can either have great taste or less filling.
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2004
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One thing we've found in serious rain country:
More important than the finish is a good coat of wax. We use plain old Johnson's Paste Wax. My wife's Deerstalker still looks new after over 10 years of use. Sure, there are dings and scuffs. But it earned those honestly!
More important than the finish is a good coat of wax. We use plain old Johnson's Paste Wax. My wife's Deerstalker still looks new after over 10 years of use. Sure, there are dings and scuffs. But it earned those honestly!
Along with rereading this... if it was ever read in the first place. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/236930/Vomir le Chien said:
Last edited by a moderator:
So, I just received by Lyman Deerstalker today, and I'm not super happy with the QC.
Four issues:
1. The barrel wedge won't go through the left escutcheon. Skinned my knuckles, put some light scratches on the stock, and put a little bulge in the left escutcheon trying to get the wedge through. The manual says you may need to file some metal off the top of the right escutcheon to get it to fit just right... This is the most annoying issue because I don't have a small file and so can't even get the dang thing together. IMO, I shouldn't have to file anything on a new gun. Don't they try to fit the barrel and stock at least once at the factory?
2. The front site is very loose. Slides side to side with the lightest touch. Probably my fault as I got some lube under it as I was cleaning/lubing the barrel. I think once I get all the lube off, it might be tight enough not to move when firing but not sure.
3. Cleaning jag only screws half way into the ramrod. Other brand attachments screw in fine, so it must be the threads on the Lyman jag.
4. The stock agate flints and flint "leather" suck.
I guess these are relatively minor issues, and all can be corrected easily/cheaply, but I have to say, I'm not super happy.
Four issues:
1. The barrel wedge won't go through the left escutcheon. Skinned my knuckles, put some light scratches on the stock, and put a little bulge in the left escutcheon trying to get the wedge through. The manual says you may need to file some metal off the top of the right escutcheon to get it to fit just right... This is the most annoying issue because I don't have a small file and so can't even get the dang thing together. IMO, I shouldn't have to file anything on a new gun. Don't they try to fit the barrel and stock at least once at the factory?
2. The front site is very loose. Slides side to side with the lightest touch. Probably my fault as I got some lube under it as I was cleaning/lubing the barrel. I think once I get all the lube off, it might be tight enough not to move when firing but not sure.
3. Cleaning jag only screws half way into the ramrod. Other brand attachments screw in fine, so it must be the threads on the Lyman jag.
4. The stock agate flints and flint "leather" suck.
I guess these are relatively minor issues, and all can be corrected easily/cheaply, but I have to say, I'm not super happy.
send it back with the list of faults and see if they can send a decent replacement. Once we hollar enough that lousy stuff outta quit happening....if we accept and repair "in house" they just keep shipping it.
I have even started insisting McDonald's makes my burgers look like the ones in the picture. You would be amazed how little time doing that it takes to improve the overall quality in a McDonald restaurant for all customers.
Same holds true for Lyman, if we tolerate it they will keep doing it.
As to waterproofing a wood stock, Tru Oil and regular waxing of cut outs, inlets and stock surfaces goes a long ways.
Same holds true for Lyman, if we tolerate it they will keep doing it.
As to waterproofing a wood stock, Tru Oil and regular waxing of cut outs, inlets and stock surfaces goes a long ways.
Walks with fire
54 Cal.
I have used the Birchwood Casey Tru-oil on a couple of rifles and it works good as far as I can tell. My rifles don't get a lot of exposure to real wet weather because they are flint rifles and I go in if it's real wet.
I applied it right over the existing finish and put on 8 to 10 applications. Looks great to me and I covered every nook and cranny. I like the feel of it. It's not tacky but it also has a non slip quality to it. It's not real a real shiny finish either. Car wax over it at the end of the year and it's good to go.
I applied it right over the existing finish and put on 8 to 10 applications. Looks great to me and I covered every nook and cranny. I like the feel of it. It's not tacky but it also has a non slip quality to it. It's not real a real shiny finish either. Car wax over it at the end of the year and it's good to go.
