Lyman GPR Kit Help

[hardykev]

I received my GPR kit today from Midsouth and I think I have problems that I can't fix short of a new stock.

The glaring issue is a 3/32" gap at the back of the tang between it and the stock.

I figured that could be fixed by moving the tang back, but the next issue is lock alignment with the touch hole.

I assume I am in need of a new stock or new kit at this point.

Has anyone had similar issues with Lyman kits?

 

[tommy b]

Kevin,
In the book,"Building the Kentucky Pistol" by James Johnston, he says, "It is a good idea to leave a small gap (1/64")at the end of the tang to prevent splitting or chipping of the stock when the barrel is removed for cleaning. This also allows for expansion and contraction of the wood due to change in the climate."
I'm not sure if a rifle requires more of a gap or not. 3/32" (.093") sounds a little excessive to me but maybe a rifle requires more relief than a pistol.I'm sure some of the other people in this forum can explain it. There is a lot of knowledge available here.

 

[hardykev]

Thank you for the reply.

Does the touch hole alignment look like a problem?

I will be calling Lyman tomorrow to see if/what I should do.

 

[RJR]

Kevin, I'd be getting in touch with Midsouth and e-mailing them these piutures. Might also get in touch with Lyman. Looks like somebody screwed up when that stock was made. That is an excessive gap and judging by the pictures that touch hole will be just a hair to the rear (should be centered on the pan or slightly forward by what I understand). I personally haven't had any dealings with Midsouth, but by what I've heard they should stand by their product, if not I know Lyman will. Keep us posted. Take care, Rick.

 

[hardykev]

Midsouth referred me to Lyman a a first step. The gal from midsouth was very pleasant and told me to call them back if Lyman wouldn't help me.

Thanks for the help, I thought I was looking at a problem here.

I will give updates on the experience.

 

[roundball]

The lock assembly looks exactly like TC's newly redesigned lock assemblies...maybe the same company makes the locks for both Lyman and TC?

 

[tg]

The issue should be delt with by lyman, I have fixed such large gaps in tangs, buttplates and such by hammering to expand the metal then filing to fit, but if you are not practiced at this your best bet is to get help from maker.

 

[Zonie]

While there are ways to fix the gap at the tang, most are difficult at best.
The option of inleting the barrel aft to close the gap would have been one option but as the touch hole is already further aft than it should be I would not recommend this.
As was mentioned, send Lyman your photos along with a letter explaining your concern. I am quite sure they will replace the stock (or the entire kit) without question.

I would suggest that you wait to see what their responce is before you drop a subtle hint that the 400+ muzzleloading nuts who frequent Muzzleloading Forum are anxiously waiting for word about the way Lyman handles this little problem and how well they stand behind their product.

 

[2172]

agree that the first step is going back to Lyman. If that doesn't work I'm confidant that Mid-South will take care of it. I've just acquired two Lyman's from Mid-South..the Deerstalker, and the GPR...the locks appear to be identical, inside, with my T/C...Hank

 

[Voyageur]

If you're forced to work with that particular kit, I would reccommend that you bed the tang with Microbed a little further forward so as to lineup the touchhole correctly like 'zonie says. You could put in an inlay behind the tang and no one would know. This would also give you the advantage of not having the wood chip at that point for any reason.

Voyageur

 

[hardykev]

Update:

I received the new kit today. Generally it is better than the first. I will work with it and get it together.

I am still not completely happy with the touch hole location, though it is improved. It is still a bit back of the center of the pan. The gap around the tang is correct and the triggers work correctly. The fit on the lock of the first one was much better than this one. I can see a very small gap at the front and rear of the lock.

All in all I am excited to get to building the rifle.

 

[Zonie]

The forward and aft location of the touch hole isn't as critical as the vertical location.
As long is the vertical location is about flush with the top of the pan with the frizzen open it will be ok. If it is not flush, slightly above the top of the pan is better than slightly below it.
Actually IMO it is better to to have the hole aft of center than forward because the open frizzen kinda directs the flash aft. (That ought to start a debate here.)

 

[roundball]

I totally agree with that...TC has also moved the position of their vent so the entire liner is above the pan and slightly rear of center...(you can remove the liner without removing the lock) and ignition is very fast

 

[TwoShadows]

Before you get too discouraged, I have a suggestion that a lot of builders use.....many more of them than you would suspicion.

For gaps around the tang or lock...any inlays etc;

When you have finished the staining and finishing of the wood, after having done your best with the kit(or scratch gun for that matter), the secret is...COLORING CRAYONS. Yep, try and find a color that matches your wood color as close as possible. Warmed enough the crayon will flow and fill up the gap..blending the gap in so well that you will be amazed at the improvement. Rub your hands back and forth over it until the crayon filler is leveled in the gap.excess will be rubbed of leaving what looks like a real nice inletting job. Until you have labored through the construction of a rifle or pistol, you are much less capable of finding mistakes on shooters you have previously inspected. Start looking real close at some of the work you admire....betcha you are in for a pleasant surprise!

 

[hardykev]

Well, I finished the rifle today and I am very pleased.

A picture of the finished product is in the photos section.

GPRs have my vote for a very nice product for the money.

 

[lonewolf5347]

Kevin LOOKS SHARP

 

[Spot Shooter]

Kevin,

I plan on getting a GPR kit but a cap model.

You have provided me some great motivation. Nice shootin' Iron.

Spot

 

[hardykev]

Spot Shooter,

I have to give kudos to this forum for the inspiration and information I used to make the same decision.

I will only say this, for a first time kit/project, I was discouraged the first moment I saw the kit and how much work was needed. It passed over time and now I would not have made any other choice.

 

[Spot Shooter]

Kevin,

Cool! I was a bit concerned about being able to make a nice looking BP gun out of a kit. I've seen some CVA builds that must have gone wrong somewhere.

Your rifle is really nice, did you use the finish, and blueing from the kit??? I'll be making a cap model so I'll post the picts over in the other forum. RollingB, and Zonie got me wired up over here, looks like a real nice site.

Anyway, I ordered my molds, ladel, and melting pot today. I think I'm doing things back words but I've got 400 lbs of lead that was donated by a good friend. Best get this GPR on order so I can start shooting it.

Again, nice pict's beautiful gun. Let me know how it shoots!

Spot

 

[Zonie]

Spot Shooter: Glad ta see ye made it o'er har. Now thar is that lil thang 'bout ye shippin that 200 pounds o lead out har to AriZonie. Ye kno, that stuff what's due me fer a guidin ye har.

Just kidding! Nice to have you here sittin by the fire. Pour yourself a cup of coffee and start reading. There's a lot of good information here.