I was thinking about building a Lyman GPR kit. Is it worthwhile to replace the lock and trigger set with an L&R or are the factory lock and triggers fine?
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Lyman GPR kit
- Thread starter Boomerang
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For most users, the lock and triggers are acceptable. I think it would be best for you to wait until your rifle is assembled before deciding to change the lock and triggers.
I have a factory made GPR and the lock and triggers seem fine. I just didn't know if the L&R was that much better since I don't have any to compare them to.Grenadier1758 said:
Black Hand
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My suggestion would be to build the Lyman and learn to shoot with it. Then sink your extra money into buying a non-production gun and use the Lyman as a loaner/trainer for new people.
That said, Lymans are good beginner guns and shoot well.
That said, Lymans are good beginner guns and shoot well.
nwtradegun
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trigger is well worth it I installed on 2 rifles. could not believe the improvement.
If its a capper, no need but an improvement yes. Flinter, I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with an L&R. I did on mine and its certainly leaps and bounds over the factory offering.
If I recall Lyman uses a coil mainspring type system... IMO that's a :nono: on any sidelock.
Triggers are a good later upgrade, the factory set can be worked and polished to yield a very acceptable system. In fact, I removed my set triggers and installed a single trigger that I forged. Skys the limit, have fun and post pictures... We love pictures! :thumbsup:
If I recall Lyman uses a coil mainspring type system... IMO that's a :nono: on any sidelock.
Triggers are a good later upgrade, the factory set can be worked and polished to yield a very acceptable system. In fact, I removed my set triggers and installed a single trigger that I forged. Skys the limit, have fun and post pictures... We love pictures! :thumbsup:
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Black Hand said:
+1 on the above. The Lyman percussion lock will serve you as well as any "custom" lock, and the flint lock, though it does not have geometry as refined as an L&R, is very serviceable. And after a little tweaking, the factory trigger is fine. Although leaf springs are more authentic if that of concern to you, the coil spring locks a la Lyman, Thompson Center and others work equally as well and are more resistant to breakage as well. In my opinion, if you are going to purchase a kit gun and then go to considerable additional expense to substitute parts, then you might as well save a few extra dollars and get a more expensive gun with the components you desire.
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Yes we do!Crewdawg445 said:
Would love to see your progression throughout your build to include your finished GPR.
Respectfully, Cowboy :thumbsup:
So who do you recommend getting a high quality kit from? Are there any good ones that would already be 95% inlaid. I don't have a lot of wood working tools yet, but I'm going to have to get some.
Thanks
Thanks
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While I don't have any experience dealing with Kibler or his kits, many people that I respect on this forum have a lot of good things to say about him and his kits. He also offers, or is about to offer, a .45 kit. You will need to take into consideration what you will want the rifle to do prior to ordering anything:
http://www.jimkibler.net/
Also, buy this book:
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/1/BOOK-GGC
http://www.jimkibler.net/
Also, buy this book:
https://www.trackofthewolf.com/Categories/PartDetail.aspx/303/1/BOOK-GGC
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bubba.50
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when you get around to doin' mods on yer GPR, they won't do anything the stock triggers won't do so it's kinda hard to describe. but, a set of Davis Deerslayer triggers is a sweet upgrade.
my opinion & yer welcome to it, bubba.
my opinion & yer welcome to it, bubba.
frogwalking
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A properly set up single trigger is very good. Used unset as double triggers often, by necessity are, the front unset trigger pull is usually not very good.
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I think one of the Lyman kits is a very good bet for a first time builder. I would not start out on a kit that required more woodworking skills. But maybe that's just me....I have no woodworking ability at all and it would be very easy for me to convert a $900 kit into a $400 finished gun.Boomerang said:
One of the few things I don't really like about my GPR is the set trigger.
The spring in the set trigger that powers the rear "trigger" is very strong and it takes more power to set it than it should.
That said, I don't see anything that needs much improvement in the lock.
At this stage of your build, I would just go ahead and build it as it comes from the factory.
Later on, if you decide you want a better trigger, buy a aftermarket RE Davis Deerslayer.
http://www.redaviscompany.com/1007.html
The spring in the set trigger that powers the rear "trigger" is very strong and it takes more power to set it than it should.
That said, I don't see anything that needs much improvement in the lock.
At this stage of your build, I would just go ahead and build it as it comes from the factory.
Later on, if you decide you want a better trigger, buy a aftermarket RE Davis Deerslayer.
http://www.redaviscompany.com/1007.html
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Thanks guys, maybe I will just stick with a GPR kit and see how it turns out. Then maybe a trigger upgrade. Does the stock seem to be made out of a decent hardwood?
Remember: Freshly sanded walnut looks very light in color.
In order to see what the real color and look of the wood, lightly spray a bit of water on it.
When the wood is wet, it will look just like it will look when the finishing oils are applied.
I mention this because a lot of people, looking at the freshly sanded surfaces get the idea that they will need to stain the wood.
In reality, staining walnut usually makes it so dark that all of the interesting colors are hidden.
When the wood is nearly finished with forming and sanding, take it outside in the bright sun and spray some water on it.
This is a good idea anyway, even if you don't care what the real color of the wood is.
Spraying water on the wood will raise the "whiskers", little bits of grain fibers.
Let the wood dry and then, very lightly sand the whiskers off.
Repeat this a few times and then when the real finishing oil is applied the finish will be smoooooth.
(Also, don't waste your time using sandpaper finer than 220 grit. The 320 and finer papers are for sanding metal and existing finishes.)
In order to see what the real color and look of the wood, lightly spray a bit of water on it.
When the wood is wet, it will look just like it will look when the finishing oils are applied.
I mention this because a lot of people, looking at the freshly sanded surfaces get the idea that they will need to stain the wood.
In reality, staining walnut usually makes it so dark that all of the interesting colors are hidden.
When the wood is nearly finished with forming and sanding, take it outside in the bright sun and spray some water on it.
This is a good idea anyway, even if you don't care what the real color of the wood is.
Spraying water on the wood will raise the "whiskers", little bits of grain fibers.
Let the wood dry and then, very lightly sand the whiskers off.
Repeat this a few times and then when the real finishing oil is applied the finish will be smoooooth.
(Also, don't waste your time using sandpaper finer than 220 grit. The 320 and finer papers are for sanding metal and existing finishes.)
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you can do much worse than a Lyman GPR. if the GPR style isn't really what you want, check out Kimbler's kit
http://www.jimkibler.net/kit-gun.html
this Southern Mountain style is, to my mind, a very elegant looking rifle (did I mention that I'm saving my soda can money?). as an aside, I would upgrade to the nicest wood you can get ... grain and figure and stuff is 'bling,' and bling is good!
as regards the trigger, I used the factory trigger in my Thompson Center Renegade for many years and then 'splurged' on a "deerslayer." wow- what a huge difference - well worth the money!
one guy's advice: free and no doubt well worth the cost!
http://www.jimkibler.net/kit-gun.html
this Southern Mountain style is, to my mind, a very elegant looking rifle (did I mention that I'm saving my soda can money?). as an aside, I would upgrade to the nicest wood you can get ... grain and figure and stuff is 'bling,' and bling is good!
as regards the trigger, I used the factory trigger in my Thompson Center Renegade for many years and then 'splurged' on a "deerslayer." wow- what a huge difference - well worth the money!
one guy's advice: free and no doubt well worth the cost!
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traceywalker
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Agree,...the best mod I've made to my GPR. Smooth and no creep whatsoever.
Trace---
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