Lyman GPR Kit

[azsixshooter]

I've been working on this build for over a year, although I never seem to get enough time to really sit and get a lot done at once. I had hoped to get all the sanding done over the last 2 days but my plans didn't work out and I barely sat down to start working on it late last night and there wasn't enough good light so I didn't get much done. I think it's getting pretty close to being ready to start finish sanding after I blend the wood/metal areas and thin the wood out slightly in a few places.

I thought I would post some pics and see if anyone has any thoughts or advise for me at this point. I'm pretty happy with the way it's coming along so far. There were a couple times when I cut too deep or too far but I think I managed to recover as well as possible.

I hope everyone had a happy Independence Day. I fired off this GPR twice last night for my neighbors to see and they got a kick out of that.

Thanks for any opinions,

Steve

 

[Notchy Bob]

It looks good to me, Steve. About time to finish 'er up.

I'm sure your neighbors appreciated the fireworks! A flintlock being fired in the dark can be pretty impressive!

Notchy Bob

 

[1950DAVE]

Lookin good, Steve
Dave

 

[Phil Coffins]

Steve I’m glad your enjoying your build. There’s still some file work that would improve the lines before sanding. The wrist going to the tang is rather square and the wood at the entry pipe needs trimmed to a straighter line. Also file the wood down to the nose cap before sanding to keep the lines straight. A photo of the cheek rest of the stock, lock panels and toe line would be of interest.

 

[azsixshooter]

Thanks for the tips Phil. I think I understand what you mean about the filework at the nosecap and entry pipe. I was just going to use rough sandpaper to clean-up those areas, but instead I'll use a file.

I haven't sanded the lock panels yet. It seemed like they should be flat and distinct from the rest of the stock so I was planning to sand them with a hard block to keep the flatness and not round the edges off too much.

I have work to do on the cheekpiece/beavertail and I messed it up at the top when I was rasping out the comb. I hate the way it looks teardrop shaped now, but I don't think I can fix it much better than I have so I'll probably have to live with it. I thought about cutting it off altogether because it doesn't really seem to provide any kind of useful cheek weld but I'll leave it so it looks traditional.

Here are a few more pictures of the areas you mentioned. I wasn't sure what you meant by toeline, but I thought that's the belly area of the stock. If I'm wrong just let me know.

Thanks again!

 

[Thunder14]

Your missing the brass washer for the lock screw

 

[azsixshooter]

Your missing the brass washer for the lock screw

Good eye, I figured someone would notice that. I actually ordered another one from Lyman last week. I somehow lost that and even lost the tang and had to buy another one of those too. I tore the house apart looking for the tang, I had it all finished and ready to go. I've had this build floating around a cluttered house for a year and a half now so who knows where that stuff went. I'm being a lot more diligent about keeping things together in a bag now when the rifle isn't assembled.

 

[Thunder14]

ya I’m working on a Brown Bess at the moment,I have overlooked things starring me in the face.

 

[Phil Coffins]

You may be able to blend the top of the cheek rest in to a concave manner to get an appearance more like this.
all 197 by Oliver Sudden, on Flickr

 

[Loonhaven]

Here are two GPRs I did this past winter. The percussion follows traditional Hawken style while the flintlock is more representative of a Pennsylvania style

 

[Notchy Bob]

Here are two GPRs I did this past winter. The percussion follows traditional Hawken style while the flintlock is more representative of a Pennsylvania style.

Really nice work there, Loonhaven! I particularly like your treatment of the flintlock. The cheek rest looks great. As for the side plates on the flintlocks (rifle and pistol), do those just cover up and conceal the original lock bolts, or did you figure out a way to install new lock bolts in a more traditional location?

Notchy Bob

 

[Loonhaven]

Here are two GPRs I did this past winter. The percussion follows traditional Hawken style while the flintlock is more representative of a Pennsylvania styleView attachment 36199

Just a side plate and two wood screws. Also added a handmade patchbox.

 

[Notchy Bob]

Just a side plate and two wood screws. Also added a handmade patchbox.View attachment 36202

Clever! And nicely executed. The guns look so much better with the screws in the "right" places!

Notchy Bob

 

[Nameless Hunter]

Just a side plate and two wood screws. Also added a handmade patchbox.View attachment 36202

Really liking the patchbox.

 

[sussexmuzllodr]

looks great!